Step 1

Combine 8 large caps dried shiitake mushrooms and 2 Tbsp. small dried shrimp (if using) in a medium bowl and pour in 2½ cups hot water. Let sit at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour to rehydrate.

Step 2

Remove mushrooms from liquid and squeeze out liquid over bowl; place on a cutting board. Drain shrimp, reserving soaking liquid; set aside separately. Remove stems from mushrooms; discard. Thinly slice mushroom caps; set aside.

Step 3

Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high. Cook one 2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced, in a single layer, turning halfway through, until golden on both sides, about 4 minutes. Push ginger to one side of pan and add reserved sliced mushrooms and dried shrimp (if using) to empty space. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add 2 cups long- or short-grain glutinous rice, rinsed, and ¼ cup store-bought or homemade fried shallots and cook, stirring often, until well mixed but without rice browning, about 1 minute. Transfer rice mixture to a medium heatproof bowl (use one that can fit entirely inside a large pot with a lid).

Step 4

Add ¼ cup dry rice wine (such as michiu or sake), 2 Tbsp. black sesame oil, 2 Tbsp. Kimlan aged soy sauce or regular soy sauce, ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, 1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper, and 2 cups reserved soaking liquid to rice mixture and stir well to combine. (Make sure the mixture fills no more than two thirds of the bowl since the rice will expand as it steams).

Step 5

Set a rack or 3 tinfoil balls in a large pot (this will keep the bowl of rice from touching the bottom of the pot; you want it elevated above the water when you add it); pour in water to come 2" up sides of pot and bring to a boil. Place bowl on rack (keep the bowl uncovered so steam can circulate into the bowl as the rice cooks), cover pot, and steam rice mixture until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, 35–40 minutes. Remove from heat and let youfan sit (still covered) 10 minutes.

Step 6

Alternatively, if you have a rice cooker, transfer rice mixture to cooker. Add ¼ cup dry rice wine (such as michiu or sake), 2 Tbsp. black sesame oil, 2 Tbsp. Kimlan aged soy sauce or regular soy sauce, ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, 1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper, and 2 cups reserved soaking liquid and stir well to combine. Close cooker and steam rice mixture (on the white/sweet rice setting if you have it) until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, 30–50 minutes, depending on the brand of your cooker. If rice is still not cooked through by the time the liquid is absorbed, add ¼ cup water and continue steaming until cooked through. Let youfan sit (still covered) 10 minutes, then use a spatula or wooden spoon to mix everything together.

Step 7

To serve, transfer youfan to a large bowl and pat down into a dome shape. Top with 1 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped, and drizzle more sesame oil over.