Step 1

In a large pot, combine 4 quarts water and the corn cobs. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes, then remove and discard the cobs. Stir in the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until fully tender. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water, tossing, until cool to the touch. Drain again, shaking the colander to remove as much water as possible; set aside.

Step 2

In a 12-inch skillet over high, heat the oil until barely smoking. Add the corn in an even layer and cook without stirring for about 3 minutes, allowing the kernels to char. Stir once, then cook without stirring until most of the kernels are fully charred, about 2 minutes. Set aside off heat.

Step 3

In a large bowl, whisk together the crema, half of the cotija, the cilantro, pickled jalapeños and their brine and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Stir in the corn and pasta, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the remaining cotija.