Step 1

Preheat oven to 275°. Place pork shoulder and belly and skin in a large saucepan. Tuck in thyme and bay leaves and add ½ cup water. Cover and braise, stirring occasionally, until meat is falling-apart tender and fat is soft, 2 ½–3 hours. Remove from oven, pluck out thyme and bay leaves and let meat rest until cool enough to handle.

Step 2

Using a slotted spoon, transfer meat and skin to a large bowl; pour fat and any cooking liquid in pot into a heatproof measuring cup (you should have about 1 cup).

Step 3

Shred meat with a potato masher; do not hold back. Pour in ¾ cup fat and mash meat a little bit more—mixture should look and feel almost pasty (but in a good way). Season with salt, nutmeg, and a splash of lemon juice, which will temper the richness of the meat. Taste and adjust as necessary (err on the side of too salty—it will mellow as it cools).

Step 4

Pack rillette mixture into jars, pushing out any air bubbles. Top each with a few spoonfuls of reserved fat and chill until set, at least 2 hours.

Step 5

Serve with bread or crackers.

Step 6

Do ahead: Rillette can be made 1 week ahead; cover and chill. Let sit at room temperature 2 hours before serving.