Step 1

Put the tofu in a covered microwave-safe container, carefully removing it from the package in one or two pieces if possible. (Or use an electric or stovetop steamer.) Sprinkle generously with salt and steam until the tofu puffs and is super hot, about 5 minutes in the microwave on high (or five minutes after the water boils in a steamer). Let the tofu sit, covered, until you pull together the stir-fry.

Step 2

While the tofu steams, slice the scallions, keeping the white and green parts separate. Put the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add the white scallion slices (no need to let the oil fully heat). Peel and chop the ginger, drop it in the pan, and give a stir. Peel and slice the garlic and stir it into the now sizzling oil, too. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, brown in places, and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, rinse and chop the greens.

Step 3

When the aromatics are ready, turn the heat to high and pour 1/2 cup water into the skillet. Immediately start adding the greens, stirring to soften them, and make room in the pan. Sprinkle with a little salt and continue cooking and stirring until greens are tender but still brightly colored and the water is almost evaporated, just a couple minutes. Add the soy sauce and sesame oil and lots of black pepper; taste and adjust the seasoning.

Step 4

To serve, use a slotted spoon to scoop ice-cream-like mounds of the tofu into bowls, leaving behind as much water as possible. Top with the stir-fry and pan juices. Splatter on some hot sauce or chile crisp, drizzle with more soy sauce, and squeeze lemon juice over all.