Step 1

Preheat oven to 180C. Cook pasta in a large saucepan of well-salted boiling water until not quite al dente (6-7 minutes). Drain, reserving 2 tbsp cooking water, and return both to pan.

Step 2

Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat, add bacon or speck and fry until crisp and fat renders (2-3 minutes). Add garlic, stir until fragrant, then deglaze pan with wine and simmer until reduced by half (2-3 minutes). Stir in mustard and thyme, then add mixture to pasta and stir to combine. Add cream, cheddar, Gruyère, crème fraîche, paprika and half the parmesan, season, mix well, then transfer to four individual 450ml baking dishes (or a large baking dish).

Step 3

Mix breadcrumbs, rind and remaining oil and parmesan in a bowl and season. Scatter crumbs over pasta and bake until filling is bubbling and the top is golden brown (15-20 minutes). Scatter with extra thyme and lemon rind, and serve hot.