Step 1

In a dry skillet heated on high, toast the ancho chiles on each side for about 10 seconds or just until they start to puff. Fill the skillet with enough water to cover. Leave the heat on until the water begins to boil and then turn off the heat and let the chiles soak until soft, about 30 minutes.

Step 2

Once hydrated, discard the soaking water, rinse the chiles well, then place into a blender. Place chiles in a blender with 1/2 cup of fresh water. Puree until smooth.

Step 3

Heat the lard in a Dutch oven on medium heat. Generously salt and pepper the pork, and add to the pot, cooking until browned. Remove the pork and add to the pot the onion. Cook for 5 minutes then add the garlic. Cook for 30 more seconds.

Step 4

Return the pork to the pot and pour in the chile puree. Add 1 cup of water, the cilantro, oregano, cumin, and allspice. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook covered on low heat for 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally, until tender. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Step 5

Serve in bowls topped with cotija or wrapped in flour tortillas for tacos.