Step 1

Squeeze the juice out of 1 lemon and cut the remaining 2 lemons in half. In a medium bowl, whisk together the olive oil, the lemon juice, garlic and za’atar. Add the chicken, toss to coat and marinate at room temperature for about 30 minutes. (The chicken can also marinate for up to 12 hours in the refrigerator, but remove it from the refrigerator 30 or 40 minutes before proceeding with the recipe.)

Step 2

To cook the chicken on a grill: Coat the grates lightly with oil. Prepare a grill for direct and indirect heat on a gas or chacoal grill (see Notes).

Step 3

Shake off any excess marinade, place the chicken on the grill over the flame, close the lid and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, so any bits of fat render.

Step 4

Turn the thighs over and move them to the indirect-heat side of the grill. Add the lemon halves, cut-side down, to the grill. If using a gas grill, reduce the temperature to 325 and close the lid. For a charcoal grill, allow the temperature to decrease to about 325 degrees, and close the lid. Cook the chicken for an additional 5 minutes, or until its internal temperature registers 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.

Step 5

To cook the chicken on a stovetop: Heat a large, cast-iron skillet or grill pan over high heat until it begins to smoke. Shake off any excess marinade and place the chicken in the skillet. Depending on the size of your skillet, you may need to cook it in 2 batches. Cook until the chicken blackens in spots, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon halves to the skillet, cut side down. Turn the chicken over and cook on the other side until browned, about 4 minutes, or until its internal temperature registers 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Repeat with the remaining chicken, if necessary.

Step 6

While the chicken is cooking, in a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt and tahini, leaving ribbons of the sesame paste in the yogurt, for a marbled effect.

Step 7

Let the chicken rest for 5 minutes before serving, with the yogurt-tahini sauce and warm flatbreads on the side.