fish sauce

This savory-sweet stir-fry, known as bo luc lac or “dice” in Vietnamese, gets its English name from the constant shaking of the pan performed by the cook while browning the meat. It can be tough work to move the hot wok constantly, and the intense heat can burn the ingredients in a wink. This recipe, adapted from the one served at Slanted Door, Charles Phan’s immensely popular Vietnamese restaurant in San Francisco, has been simplified for the home cook. Once the meat is marinated, it is quick work – 20 minutes from start to finish – but don’t try to expedite matters further by dumping all of the meat into the wok at once. Cook the meat in two batches (a pound at a time) so you get a nice, crisp sear.

Shaking Beef

beef

garlic

sugar

Salt and pepper

neutral oil, like corn or canola

rice-wine vinegar

rice wine

soy sauce

red onion,

scallions, trimmed and cut in 1-inch lengths

butter

watercress,

limes,

Marinate meat with garlic, half the sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and 1 tablespoon oil for about 2 hours. (Refrigerate if your kitchen is very warm.) Meanwhile, combine vinegar, remaining sugar, wine, soy sauce and fish sauce. Taste, and add salt and pepper if necessary. Mix about 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl.

Divide the meat into 2 portions, and do the same with the onion and scallions. Put a wok or a large skillet over maximum heat, and add about 2 tablespoons oil. When the oil smokes, add the meat in one layer. Let it sit until a brown crust forms, and turn to brown the other side. Browning should take less than 5 minutes. Add half the onion and half the scallions, and cook, stirring, about 30 seconds. Add about half the vinegar mixture, and shake pan to release the beef, stirring if necessary. Add half the butter, and shake pan until butter melts. Remove meat, and repeat.

Serve beef over watercress or lettuce leaves, passing salt and pepper mixture and lime wedges at the table.

Fennel ‘Quick Kimchi’

fennel bulbs (about 2

salt

white distilled vinegar

sesame oil

gochugaru

scallions, chopped chives, or cilantro or flat-leaf parsley leaves, for garnish (optional)

Smacked Cucumber ‘Quick Kimchi’

Persian cucumbers (about 5

Coarsely chopped chives, thinly sliced scallions, or cilantro

As this recipe proves, lime juice, fish sauce and sugar is a powerful combination you should commit to memory. Traditionally, those three ingredients form the base of several classic Thai and Vietnamese sauces like nuoc cham and nam pla prik. The mayonnaise here is barely noticeable, but it serves an important role in helping the flavors adhere to the corn. The cilantro is optional so no one will throw a fit.

Corn on the Cob With Lime, Fish Sauce and Peanuts

corn,

lime

mayonnaise

peanuts

cilantro (optional)

Heat grill to medium-high. Grill corn, turning occasionally, until cooked through and lightly charred, 10 to 12 minutes. (Alternatively, drop corn in a large pot of salted boiling water and cook for 5 to 7 minutes.)

Meanwhile, zest the lime. Set aside the zest then cut the lime in half. Cut one half into four wedges and squeeze the remaining half into a small bowl. Stir the mayonnaise, fish sauce and sugar into the lime juice.

Slather hot corn with mayonnaise mixture. Sprinkle with chopped peanuts, or, for maximum coverage, roll corn in peanuts spread on a plate. Sprinkle with lime zest and cilantro, if using. Serve with lime wedges alongside for squeezing.

Super tender pork, and seasoned hard-boiled eggs, thịt kho is really easy to make, and the comforting, traditional Vietnamese dish that reminds me of my childhood.

Thịt Kho - Vietnamese Braised Pork with Eggs

pork

eggs

oz coconut soda (Rico brand. Coca Cola

tbsp fish sauce (or soy sauce)

tsp salt

yellow onion (cut into large pieces (6-8 large chunks))

Cut the pork into smaller pieces. I like 1.5" cubes so it cooks slightly faster.

Bring 2-3 quarts of water boiling on high, or enough to fully submerge the pork.When the water's boiling, add the pork for 1-2 minutes just to clean it. Drain then rinse the pork under running water until the water is clear.

Add the coconut soda, soy sauce, fish sauce and salt to the pot.

Fill up the pot until the water just covers the pork. Turn the heat to high.

When it hits a boil, drop the heat until you still see a slight boil, maybe about about 25% heat and let it simmer uncovered for about 1.5 to 2 hours. Check and stir the pot every 20 minutes. The longer you cook it, the softer the pork gets. Leaving it slightly uncovered lets the liquid reduce so you get a nice concentrated sauce later.

Make the caramel color (nuoc mau) and add it to the pot.

Make the hard-boiled eggs: add your eggs to a pot and cover the eggs with cold water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Remove from heat and let it sit for 8 minutes. Cool under running water then peel.

Add the peeled hard boiled eggs to the pot of pork in the last ~30-40 minutes of cooking. Add the onions at this time too. Eventually we want the liquid to reduce to about 1/3 of the original but you can do it based your own taste of the sauce and the tenderness of the pork.

Throughout Southeast Asia, little skewers of marinated meat, grilled over coals, are sold as street snacks. Sweetly fragrant with coconut milk and spices, they are perfect for barbecue parties served with steamed rice, or on their own with drinks, whether grilled indoors or out. You may use pork loin or tenderloin, but marbled sirloin or shoulder is more succulent.

Pork Satay With Thai Spices and Peanut Sauce

pounds pork loin, tenderloin

shallot, minced

garlic cloves,

ginger

lemongrass

cumin seeds,

coriander seeds,

turmeric

cayenne

lime juice

brown sugar

coconut milk

Cilantro and basil leaves,

Persian

shallots

Thai

dry roasted peanuts, unsalted

garlic, chopped

lime juice, more to taste

Prepare the skewers: Put pork in a mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, stir together shallot, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, cumin, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, fish sauce, lime juice, soy sauce, brown sugar and coconut milk, and pour over meat. Toss with your hands to coat well. Let marinate for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Meanwhile, soak 12 bamboo skewers in water.

Prepare the cucumbers: Put cucumbers in a mixing bowl and season with salt. Add lime juice, sugar, shallots and chiles and toss to coat. Let stand for 15 minutes. Check seasoning, then transfer to a serving dish.

Prepare the peanut sauce: Pulse the peanuts briefly in a food processor just until finely ground. Add the garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar, fish sauce, lime juice, cayenne and coconut milk, and process until well puréed. Transfer to a bowl, then taste and adjust seasoning. Thin a bit with lime juice or water as desired.

Thread 2 slices of pork onto each bamboo skewer, keeping the meat as flat as possible. Grill over hot coals, under the broiler or on a stovetop grill pan for 3 minutes on each side, until cooked through and lightly browned. Transfer to a platter and garnish with cilantro and basil leaves. Serve with cucumber relish and peanut sauce.

This stellar soup is reviving and cozy, made in one pot, and ready in 30 minutes. It starts with ginger-scented chicken-cilantro meatballs that are browned, then simmered in a fragrant coconut milk broth that’s inspired by tom kha gai, a Thai chicken-coconut soup seasoned with lemongrass, galangal, makrut lime leaves and chile. A heap of spinach is added for color and flavor, and a squeeze of lime adds brightness and punch. The soup is brothy, so serve it over rice or another grain to make it a full meal.

Thai-Inspired Chicken Meatball Soup

ginger,

jalapeño

chicken

cilantro, leaves

Kosher salt

vegetable or coconut oil, plus more as needed

chicken broth

baby spinach

lime juice, lime

rice,

Using the small holes of a box grater, or a Microplane, grate the ginger, garlic and jalapeño (or finely chop them by hand). Transfer half to a large bowl and set the rest aside. To the large bowl, add the chicken, finely chopped cilantro, 2 tablespoons fish sauce and 1 teaspoon salt. Use your hands or a fork to fully combine but do not overmix.

Use your hands or an ice cream scoop to form 2-inch meatballs (about 2 ounces each). In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add the meatballs in a single layer and cook, flipping halfway through, until golden brown on two sides, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat, adding oil as needed.

Once all the meatballs are browned and out of the pot, if the oil is burned, wipe it out and add a bit more to the pot. Reduce the heat to medium, add the reserved ginger mixture and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth, coconut milk, sugar and the remaining 1 tablespoon fish sauce, and bring to a simmer. Add the meatballs and any juices from the plate, and simmer until the flavors come together and the meatballs are cooked through, 5 to 8 minutes.

Remove from heat, and stir in the spinach and lime juice. Divide rice among bowls, then top with meatballs, broth and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges.

"The filling variations for this dish are endless. I have chosen the virtuous road" - Matt Preston. This is an edited extract from Yummy Easy Quick Around the World by Matt Preston (Plum, RRP $39.99). Available now.

Vietnamese crispy pancakes (banh xeo)

(200 grams) rice flour

tsp turmeric

tsp caster sugar

tsp sea salt

x coconut cream

(250 milliliters) soda water

spring onions, white part very finely chopped, dark-green part thinly sliced

chicken breast

tsp vegetable or coconut oil

bean shoots

Lebanese cucumbers,

red chillies, thinly sliced

pickled carrot and daikon (see below)

coriander, Vietnamese mint, Thai basil, mint and shiso

red bird’s eye chilli, (more if you

garlic clove, finely chopped

(80 milliliters) fish sauce, plus extra if needed

(70 grams) caster sugar

lime juice, plus extra if needed

lemon juice

(about

(about 350 grams) daikon radish,

caster sugar

(125 milliliters) rice wine vinegar

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5348771529001-5853635662001

This comforting stew is loaded with lemongrass, ginger, garlic, catfish, turmeric and fish sauce, and then thickened with toasted rice powder.

Burmese Breakfast Stew

For the Ground Toasted Rice:

jasmine rice

For the Broth:

water

black pepper

white pepper

dry bay leaves

lemongrass—peeled,

Kosher salt,

catfish

For the Soup:

vegetable oil

lemongrass,

garlic,

paprika

red onions,

For serving:

rice noodles

cilantro, divided

eggs,

½ medium (6 ounces) red onion, thinly sliced

Wake Up to This Burmese Breakfast Bowl

This sour-salty soup was made for using up sweet, late-season tomatoes.

Brothy Tomato and Fish Soup With Lime

shallots,

garlic cloves, finely chopped

tomatoes

1¼ lb. skinless, boneless cod, haddock,or halibut, cut into 1½" pieces

Tbsp. (or more) fish sauce

This sour-salty soup was made for those late-season tomatoes on your countertop about to go bad. They get jammy while the fish poaches. And go ahead, add some greens. Use shrimp! This soup is flexible.

Bon Appétit

Heat oil in a medium pot over medium. Add shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and chiles and cook, stirring occasionally, until aromatics start to soften but have not taken on any color, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, smashing and stirring, until tomatoes have burst and fallen apart and mixture is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.

Pour 5 cups cold water into pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medi um-low so broth is at a bare simmer.

Add fish to pot; season lightly with salt (you’ll finish soup with fish sauce). Cook until fish is opaque and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat; add lime juice and fish sauce. Taste and season with more salt and/or fish sauce if needed. Stir in herbs and ladle into bowls.

The classic, highly aromatic Thai seasoning for seafood includes lemongrass, galangal, lime leaf, hot pepper and coconut milk. Spicy and refreshing, the bright-tasting broth is a mix of sweet, salty, sour and herbaceous. You may substitute mussels or prawns for the clams.

Fragrant Thai-Style Clams in Coconut Broth

coconut oil

peeled,

galangal, 1/4 inch thick (see note)

ginger, 1/4 inch thick

makrut lime leaves, torn

palm sugar or brown sugar

Salt,

clams

cilantro, leaves and tender stems

Lime wedges,

Heat coconut oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add chicken broth and bring to a simmer.

Add lemongrass, galangal, ginger, chiles, lime leaves, sugar and fish sauce. Simmer for 20 minutes. Add coconut milk, then taste broth for salt and adjust. (You may prepare up to this point 1 to 2 hours in advance and leave at room temperature.)

Bring mixture to a boil over high heat and add clams. Cover and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring once or twice, until all clams have opened.

Transfer clams to soup bowls. Strain broth if desired and ladle over clams. Sprinkle with cilantro and scallions. Squeeze lime over each bowl and serve with lime wedges.

These nuoc cham-inspired meatballs are perfect to fill lettuce cups topped with fresh basil or cilantro. (Add steamed rice for a more substantial meal.) The Ritz crackers here make for a juicier meatball, but feel free to substitute plain dry bread crumbs. To make the Ritz crumbs, place the crackers in a resealable plastic bag and lightly crush them with the back of a wooden spoon or measuring cup. For an easy dipping sauce, spike 1/4 cup mayonnaise with 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil or soy sauce. And save any leftover meatballs: They're great simmered in chicken broth the next day. The ginger and garlic in them release their aromatics into the broth for a deeply flavorful soup base.

Pork Meatballs With Ginger and Fish Sauce

garlic (from about 3 large cloves)

Ritz crackers (12 crackers)

Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients and use your hands to gently mix.

Shape the meat into 12 golf-ball-size rounds (about 2 inches in diameter) and arrange on a greased rimmed baking sheet.

Bake until golden and cooked through, about 15 minutes. Serve warm.

Savory and salty cocktails, like this briny version spiked with pickle juice and fish sauce, are finding their way onto more cocktail menus.

The Fisherman's Folly

2-inch-wide strip grapefruit peel

sake

pickle juice

grapefruit juice

matcha tea powder

A Drink That Brines On

Banh xeo are Vietnamese rice pancakes filled with various vegetables and meats. Thin and crispy, the finished pancakes are cut into pieces, tucked into lettuce wraps, and finished with fragrant herbs and a spicy nuoc cham dipping sauce. This recipe features the classic shrimp and pork, using bacon for the hit of smoky flavor. If bean sprouts are unavailable, try finely shredded cabbage instead. The batter can be made two days ahead and stored in the refrigerator. When ready to use, bring it to room temperature and whisk until well blended, adding water if needed to thin the batter. (It should be slightly thicker than the texture of heavy cream.) Banh xeo are best eaten as they are made, but if you need to keep them warm while making all four pancakes, heat the oven to 200 degrees and set a rack over a baking sheet. As you make the pancakes, transfer them to the rack to keep warm.

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