the nasty bits

[Photographs: Chichi Wang] More Bits Calf's Liver with Onions » What, Pray Tell, Is Cod Milt? » Every last nasty bit! » The majority of kidney pies contain cubes of simmered steak. But when it comes to my savory pies,...

The Nasty Bits: Veal Kidney Pie Recipe

veal kidney, trimmed of its fat and cut into 1/2 inch chunks

potatoes,

turnip, cubed

beef stock

butter

flour

For the pastry:

all-purpose flour

salt

water

To glaze:

egg, water

To make the pastry: Toss the butter or the fat in the flour until coated.  Add the salt.  Add a little ice water and bring the dough together with your hands, sprinkling no more than a few teaspoons of water.  On a well-floured surface, shape the dough into a square.  Sprinkle more flour onto the square to prevent sticking later; then roll out the dough into a rectangle approximately 1/2 inch thick.  Fold the rectangle lengthwise in the shape of an envelope; then roll and repeat.  Dust with flour as needed.  Repeat this procedure at least 3 or more times, preferably 5 times, taking care not to warm or soften the dough too much as you roll.  Cover the pastry with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator.

To make the filling: Heat a heavy skillet or pan over high heat.   Add 1 teaspoon or so of butter.  Toss in the kidneys and quickly saute to brown the surface, leaving the interior raw.  Remove from the pan.  

Deglaze the pan with the beef stock, reducing the liquid by half.  

In the meantime, make the roux:  Add the remainder of the butter to a saucepan and melt over low heat.  Add the flour, mixing to make a paste.  Toast the flour in the butter for a few minutes, until the roux is light golden brown.  Add the reduced stock and simmer gently, until the liquid is thickened and coats the back of of a wooden spoon.

Bring a pot of water to boil and add the cubed potatoes and turnips.  Simmer for 10 minutes, until tender.  Drain and set aside.

To assemble the pie: Place the kidney, turnips, and potatoes into a pie pan or ovenproof pot.  Cover the ingredients with the gravy so that the liquid comes up to approximately 3/4 of the kidneys and vegetables.  Roll out the chilled pastry into a sheet approximately 1/4 inch thick.  Carefully lay the pastry sheet over the kidney mixture and crimp the edges with a fork.  Puncture the surface once or twice to allow for air vents.  Lightly brush the egg glaze over the pastry.

Place the pie in the oven and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the pastry is golden brown and the interior is very hot.  Serve immediately. 

"There is nothing quite like them--that feral taste combined with a mouthfeel not quite as tender and fatty as liver, nor as chewy as gizzards." [Photographs: Chichi Wang] Of all the nasty bits on earth, liver and kidneys must be...

The Nasty Bits: Deviled Kidneys Recipe

lamb's kidneys

red wine

red wine vinegar

cayenne pepper,

mustard

heavy cream

Salt and pepper

To prep the kidneys: Cut kidneys in half and carefully remove the gristly white centers with a paring knife. For lamb's kidneys, quarter them. For pig's kidneys, cut into bite-size chunks, approximately 1-inch across.

Heat a little fat in a frying pat and add the kidneys, sauteing for just a brief minute to brown.  Add the sherry and let it bubble for 30 seconds.  Add the vinegar and simmer for 10 to 20 seconds. 

Add the jelly, mustard, and cayenne pepper, stirring the kidneys to mix all of the elements together.  Add the Worcestershire sauce, and let the liquid simmer for 20 seconds until it is slightly reduced.  Taste for balance.  Depending on your taste for kidneys, you may want to add more sour or spicy elements.  

Finish by taking the pan off the heat and adding in the heavy cream, stirring to mix.  

Serve with toast or rice, garnishing with parsley if desired.  

Oyster sauce brings out the sweetness of fresh liver in this Chinese take on classic liver and onions.

Stir-Fried Liver and Onions with Oyster Sauce Recipe

oyster sauce

soy sauce

Shaoxing rice wine

cornstarch

vegetable, canola, or peanut oil

liver (poultry

scallions,

ginger,

onion,

Combine oyster sauce, soy sauce, wine, and cornstarch in a small bowl and whisk with a fork to combine. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok over high heat until smoking.  Add the liver and stir-fry until the firm but interior is still very pink, 60 to 90 seconds.  Remove the liver with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Set aside.

Return wok to high heat. Add the scallions and ginger, and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds.  Add the onions reduce heat to medium, and continue to stir-fry until the onions are soft and slightly caramelized, 5 to 7 minutes.

Return liver to wok and add sauce mixture. Stir-fry rapidly to prevent the cornstarch from clumping.  Stir-fry the liver until the interior is still pink but no longer rare, about 20 seconds longer. Remove from heat and serve immediately.  

Stir-fried liver and onions, with the flavors of Sichuan province: chili peppers, fermented bean paste, and Sichuan peppercorns.

Spicy Stir-Fried Liver and Onions Recipe

oil, divided

pork

red chilis

Sichuan peppercorns

Sichuan bean paste

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a wok over high heat until smoking.  Add the liver and stir-fry until the firm but interior is still very pink, 60 to 90 seconds.  Remove the liver with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Set aside.

Push the onions to one side of the wok.  Add one more tablespoon of oil to the wok.  Add the chilis and the Sichuan peppercorns stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds.  Add the fermented bean paste and stir-fry for a few seconds longer.

Add the liver back to the wok. Stir-fry the liver over medium heat until the interior is still pink but no longer rare, about 20 seconds longer. Remove from heat and serve immediately.  

If you've only experienced the creaminess of chicken liver, try to imagine the indulgence of duck liver. Its texture, though a far cry from foie gras, approaches the richness of something that tastes too good to be a humble cut of offal sold for a pittance.

The Nasty Bits: Duck Liver Recipe

duck livers

salt,

Pepper

For the sauce

dark red cherries, either Bing or another variety

rhubarb,

sugar,

fig balsamic vinegar, optional

To make the sauce: Rinse the cherries and rhubarb in cold water.  Chop the stalks of rhubarb into 1/4-inch slices. Remove the pits from the cherries and chop into halves. Place the rhubarb and the cherries in a small saucepan, along with the sugar. Simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. The sauce should be like compote: fleshy and soft, with a few pieces of cherry still intact. Depending on the tartness of your cherries, you may need to add a bit more sugar. If desired, add a splash of vinegar at the end. The sauce may be made in advance and set aside.

Dry your livers on a towel; then cut them up into 1-inch segments and set aside.

Chicken or Duck Liver Mousse Recipe

For the spice mix:

bay leaf

cloves

white peppercorns

allspice berries

For the mousse:

large onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)

salt pork backfat

chicken livers,

eggs

brandy

Preheat the oven to 250°F. Grind the spices together into a fine powder and pass it through a fine mesh strainer. Set aside.

Cover the onions and pork fat in a medium saucepan with water and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Drain and allow to drip dry for a few minutes.

Place the chicken livers, egg, heavy cream, salt, brandy, and spices in a blender and blend on high heat until completely smooth. With the blender running, slowly add the fat and onions.  Don't add too quickly or the mixture will break. Blend for at least a minute or two after the last addition of fat. Pass the liquid mixture through a fine mesh strainer.

Pour the liquid into a terrine mold or individual ramekins (a bread pan will do in a pinch) and place them in a roasting pan lined with a kitchen towel. Fill the pan with boiling water to just under the edge of the mold. Cover the top of the mold with a lid (or anything to block moisture from evaporating). Carefully transfer to the middle rack of the oven and back until it reaches 160°F in the center (about 1 1/2 hours or so).

Remove from the oven and let it cool completely. Chill overnight in the refrigerator.

Deep Fried Fish Bones Recipe

whiting fish

vegetable oil

Separate the flesh from the head by cutting behind the gill flap of each fish. Keeping your knife against the bones, cut along the length of the fish to remove the fillet, peeling the flesh away as you go. Turn the fish over and repeat. Keep the tails on. Store the fillets for another use. 

Heat 4 cups of vegetable oil in a wok or deep saucepan until it reaches 375°F. Add a few bones at a time and fry until crispy and lightly golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels, sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

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Spicy Stir-Fried Liver and Onions R...

The Nasty Bits: Duck Liver Recipe

Chicken or Duck Liver Mousse Recipe

Deep Fried Fish Bones Recipe

Top 7 the nasty bits recipes from across the web

The most viewed the nasty bits recipes by Recipe Cart users, saved from over 6,000 sites. Or, go to our Recipe Search Engineic_arrow_forward_48px

Top Tags

The Nasty Bits: Veal Kidney Pie Rec...

The Nasty Bits: Deviled Kidneys Rec...

Stir-Fried Liver and Onions with Oy...

Spicy Stir-Fried Liver and Onions R...

The Nasty Bits: Duck Liver Recipe

Chicken or Duck Liver Mousse Recipe

Deep Fried Fish Bones Recipe

The most viewed the nasty bits recipes by Recipe Cart users, saved from over 6,000 sites. Or, go to our Recipe Search Engine