Step 1

Position a rack in the center and heat the oven to 450°F. Put the butter in a 9-inch-square baking dish and place in the oven to melt, about 5 minutes.

Step 2

While the butter melts, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center, pour in the milk, and stir with a fork only until the dry ingredients are moist. The dough will be soft and sticky.

Step 3

Pour the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Gently knead about 10 turns, adding no more flour than is needed to keep it from sticking to your hands. Pat into a long, narrow rectangle that's about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the dough into 12 equal strips with a pizza cutter or sharp knife dipped in flour.

Step 4

Remove the dish from the oven. Working with one at a time, transfer the strips to the baking dish and turn to coat in butter. Nest the strips snuggly together in rows.

Step 5

Bake until the strips are puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. Let stand 2 to 3 minutes. Serve hot.