Step 1

Clean up your chicken livers, cutting off any connective strips or dark spots, but you can be much quicker than usual if you plan to pass the puree through sieve as described in step No need to fuss about all the connective pieces, just get the big ones out and move on.

Step 2

For two pounds of liver, you'll need to saute it in batches, with about 2 tablespoons butter each. For the first batch, add the butter until it foams, then add all the scallions for a moment or two, then make room and add livers to fill your pan (but try not to crowd them, as tempting as it is). Saute the livers for about 2-3 minutes per side, a little browned, but still pink in the middle. Pour all of this off into a food processor or blender jar. Add another 2 tablespoons butter to the pan, saute another batch of liver about 2-3 minutes per side, still a bit pink in the middle. And for two pounds of liver and the size of your pan, it will probably take one more batch. Pour off each batch into the food processor or blender jar. If any of the butter burns, clean the pan in between batches. Or, if your stove is uneven (like mine), rotate your pan with each batch so the pan browns but no one side burns.

Step 3

Once you pour off the last of your livers into the food processor, add the port or other dessert wine to the pan. Cook off all the alcohol and reduce by about half. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up the brown bits in the pan while this is cooking down. When it has reduced, pour this off into your food processor or blender jar as well.

Step 4

Next, add the last 2 tablespoons of butter to your warm pan and set it back on the stove, on low or simmer.

Step 5

As this melts, add the the cream, allspice, thyme, salt and pepper to the food processor or blender. Blend all the liver with these spices until you have a smooth puree. When it's melted, tip in the butter as well, and give it another whirl until it's all incorporated.

Step 6

Now pour the mixture through a medium-mesh sieve over a bowl. Use the back of a ladle, moving in circles around the sieve, to push the puree through. All the tangly bits will be caught up in the sieve and in the bowl you will have a beautiful smooth-as-can-be mousse.

Step 7

Taste this mousse, season with additional salt and pepper as necessary, and then pour it off into jars. Cover each jar with a little piece of parchment or wax paper to keep it from oxidizing. Generously lick your spatula and other utensils before washing.

Step 8

Enjoy some warm pate before it all goes into the fridge or freezer! Serve it on carrot and celery sticks, cucumber and apple slices, and/or sourdough bread.