Step 1

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse well. Transfer to a large shallow serving bowl.

Step 2

Meanwhile, combine sugar, dark soy sauce, reduced-sodium soy sauce, sesame paste (or tahini), chile-garlic sauce, broth and vinegar in a small bowl. Place near the stove. Pat dry preserved vegetables (or kimchi) with a paper towel. Place near the stove.

Step 3

Heat a 14-inch flat-bottom carbon-steel wok or large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add peanut (or canola) oil and swirl to coat. When the first puff of smoke appears, add shrimp; cook, stirring, until the shrimp just starts to turn pink, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vegetables (or kimchi), then add the sauce mixture and cook, stirring, until the shrimp is just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes.

Step 4

Pour the shrimp mixture over the noodles. Top with peanuts and scallions. Toss together at the table before serving.