Step 1

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, mince 8 garlic cloves (about 2 tablespoons). Finely grate 1 ounce Parmesan cheese (about 1/2 packed cup) or measure out 1/3 cup store-bought grated if using. Thinly slice 3 medium scallions if using (about 1/3 cup). Place 2 tablespoons oyster sauce, 1 tablespoon fish sauce, and 1 tablespoon soy sauce in a small bowl.

Step 2

Add 1 pound dried spaghetti, Chinese wheat noodles, or ramen noodles to the boiling water and cook according to package directions until tender (not al dente). Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant but not browned, about 30 seconds. Turn off the heat. Add the oyster sauce mixture and stir to combine.

Step 3

When the noodles are ready, turn off the heat. If using spaghetti, transfer the pasta directly into the frying pan with tongs. If using Asian noodles, reserve 1 cup of the noodle cooking water, then drain the noodles and run under cold water until cool. Drain well again, then transfer to the frying pan.

Step 4

Add 1/2 cup of the cooking water to the pan and cook over medium heat, tossing constantly and adding more pasta water a tablespoon at a time as needed if the pan is dry, until the sauce thickens slightly and clings to the noodles, 1 to 2 minutes.

Step 5

Turn off the heat. Add the Parmesan and half of the scallions if using and toss to combine. Serve garnished with the remaining scallions if using.