Step 1

In a large pot, boil 4 quarts water. Add the noodles and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender. Reserve ½ cup of cooking water, then drain. Rinse and toss the noodles under cool water until cool to the touch, then drain again. Leave the noodles in the colander.

Step 2

In a 12-inch skillet over medium, melt the butter. Add the garlic and ¼ teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring, until fragrant and the garlic is softened but not browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the noodles, 2 tablespoons reserved cooking water, the Maggi seasoning, oyster sauce and ¼ teaspoon salt; toss. Add the Parmesan (if using); cook, tossing, until the noodles are lightly sauced and the pan is almost dry, 2 to 3 minutes. Off heat, toss in another ¼ teaspoon pepper, then taste and season with additional Maggi and pepper. Serve sprinkled with the chives.