Step 1

Wash the rice in several changes of water and drain in a mesh strainer set over a bowl for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, pour the chicken stock into a small saucepan and season with the fish sauce. (The amount used depends on the stock and your palate. I use about 1 tablespoon with homemade stock.) Bring the stock to a simmer, cover, and lower the heat to keep hot.

Step 2

In a large saucepan over medium heat, warm 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat. When the fat is barely shimmering, shake the rice to expel any lingering water, dump into the pan, and lightly fry for 3 to 5 minutes, until the grains looks dry-ish and feel light under your spatula (expect some chalky grains). Add the hot stock, stir, and briefly let it bubble and sizzle, then adjust the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, lifting the lid occasionally to stir. When liquid is barely visible and a few craters form at the top of the rice, turn the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes more.

Step 3

Meanwhile, in a medium skillet over medium heat, warm the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons rendered fat. Add the celery and cook for about 2 minutes, until jade-green and slightly softened. Add the chicken and cook for 1 to 2 minutes to heat through. Remove from the heat, then season with salt and pepper and perhaps a sprinkle of fish sauce too.

Step 4

Turn off the heat under the rice, uncover, and add the celery and chicken, spreading them on top. Replace the lid and let sit for 10 minutes to continue cooking. Use a fork to fluff the rice and stir in the celery and chicken. (If the rice is dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water.) Re-cover and let rest for 10 minutes more. Before serving, fluff the rice again, taste, and tweak with salt, pepper, or fish sauce. Transfer the rice to a serving bowl or platter and place on the table.