Step 1

Into an extra-large pot of well-salted boiling water add the raviolis. After a few minutes, when the raviolis float and are cooked through, drain them and toss with one tablespoon of the olive oil. This prevents them from sticking together. Set aside.

Step 2

To caramelize the onions, heat another tablespoon of the olive oil in a large thick-bottomed skillet with a pinch of salt. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions collapse and turn deep brown in color. You can do this ahead of time (or just before serving) - whatever you prefer. Remove from skillet and set aside.

Step 3

Before serving, combine the chard (or kale) and lemon juice with a pinch of salt in a large bowl (or on a large serving platter). Massage for 15 seconds or so. Add the raviolis and to the chard, along with most of the onions, and most of the hazelnuts. Fold gently to combine everything without breaking up the raviolis. Finish with cheese (optional), the chives, any remaining onions and hazelnuts, a finishing thread of olive oil, and the lemon zest. Serve family-style.