Step 1

Squeeze one 14-oz. package firm tofu, drained, in a colander in the sink to expel as much water as possible (don’t worry if it starts to break apart).

Step 2

Melt 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat; sprinkle in 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour and cook, stirring often, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add 1 large red onion, finely chopped, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and golden brown around the edges, 7–9 minutes.

Step 3

Reduce heat to medium; add 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled ginger, 1 Tbsp. ground coriander, 1 tsp. ground cumin, and ½ tsp. cayenne pepper and cook, stirring constantly and adding up to 2 Tbsp. water if spices are starting to get too dark (you don’t want them to burn), until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add one 14.5-oz. can crushed tomatoes and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce is deep brick red, slightly reduced, and small beads of oil appear on surface, 8–10 minutes. Add tofu and cook, stirring to break up into smaller pieces, 5 minutes (this will allow the tofu to absorb some of the sauce).

Step 4

Remove skillet from heat and stir remaining 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter and ½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro into tofu scramble. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Step 5

Serve tofu scramble with buttered toast and lemon wedges for squeezing over.