Sugar, Spice, and Everything Nice: Pumpkin Bread With a Brown Butter Glaze

For the Bread: Grease an 8 1/2- by 4 1/2-inch loaf pan and line with a 7- by 13-inch sheet of parchment paper so that parchment hangs over the long sides of the pan to form a sling. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 350°F (177°C). In a medium bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, malted milk powder, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, baking soda, allspice, nutmeg, cloves, and ginger until well combined, about 1 minute. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, pumpkin/squash purée, oil, granulated sugar, brown sugar, milk, and vanilla until thoroughly combined and sugars are dissolved, about 1 minute. Add flour mixture to egg mixture. Whisk just until incorporated and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Using a flexible spatula, scrape batter into prepared loaf pan. Bake until loaf is domed and golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out with few moist crumbs attached, or to an internal temperature of around 200°F (93°C), about 1 hour. Transfer pan to a wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet to cool for 30 minutes. Run a butter knife along edges to loosen, then lift loaf using overhanging parchment. Remove parchment and return loaf to wire rack. Meanwhile, for the Glaze: In a heatproof small bowl, combine powdered sugar, salt, and cinnamon. In a 1-quart stainless steel saucier, melt butter over medium-low heat. Increase heat to medium and simmer, stirring with a heat-resistant spatula while butter hisses and pops. Continue cooking and stirring until foaming subsides, scraping up brown bits that form on bottom, and butter is golden yellow and milk solids are chestnut brown in color, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Add milk, vanilla, and butter, along with all the brown bits, to powdered sugar mixture and whisk until smooth. You should have 3 ounces (about 1/3 cup; 80g) of glaze. Slowly drizzle glaze evenly over top of pumpkin bread, letting it drip down sides. Allow glaze to set for 10 minutes, then slice bread with serrated knife and serve.