peppercorn

This super-savory dish draws its inspiration from Taiwanese beef noodle soup, then gilds the lily with a Dutch oven’s worth of sweet, slow-simmered onions—the best part of French onion soup.

French Onion Beef Noodle Soup

vegetable oil

lb. English-style bone-in beef short ribs, cut into 2" segments

Kosher salt

scallions, white and dark green parts separated

garlic

4" piece ginger, scrubbed, thinly sliced

star anise pods

cinnamon sticks

cloves

black peppercorns

coriander seeds

dry white wine

(or more) low-sodium soy sauce

unsalted butter

lb. onions (about 10 medium), thinly sliced

Tbsp. (or more) unseasoned rice vinegar

fresh or 18 oz. dried ramen noodles

This super-savory dish draws its inspiration from Taiwanese beef noodle soup, then gilds the lily with a Dutch oven’s worth of sweet, slow-simmered onions—the best part of French onion soup, if you ask this recipe’s developer, Amiel Stanek. It takes some doing, but the effort is worth it. If you’re not planning on serving a crowd, the leftover soup base freezes beautifully, meaning you can have a big-flavor weeknight dinner in your back pocket.

Bon Appétit

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Season short ribs with salt and, working in batches, cook, turning occasionally, until well browned on all sides, 12–14 minutes. Transfer to a platter as you go. Carefully pour off fat left behind in pot until there is just enough to cover bottom of pot; discard.

Return pot to medium heat. Cook whole white scallion parts, garlic, and ginger, stirring occasionally, until they are starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Add star anise, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, and coriander seeds and cook, stirring often, until fragrant and oil is sizzling, about 1 minute. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pot with a wooden spoon. Simmer until almost completely evaporated, about 3 minutes. Return beef to pot and add soy sauce and 12 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cover partially with a lid. Simmer until meat is not quite falling off the bone, about 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, heat butter in another large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high until foaming subsides. Add onions, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until they begin to take on some color, about 15 minutes. (If they don’t fit in your pot, add as much as you can, cover, and steam 5 minutes. Stir in remaining onions and continue cooking.) Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are deep golden and softened but not mushy, 30–45 minutes.

Using tongs, remove beef from broth and let cool until you can handle. Tear meat into bite-size pieces, discarding any bone and excess fat as you go. Strain broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl; discard solids.

Add meat and broth to pot with onions. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until liquid is reduced a bit and flavors have melded, about 30 minutes. Add vinegar; taste and add more vinegar and/or soy sauce if needed.

Thinly slice remaining scallion greens. Cook noodles according to package directions. Divide among bowls. Ladle soup over noodles, making sure each bowl gets some meat and plenty of onions. Top with scallion greens and serve.

Literally "cheese and pepper", this minimalist cacio e pepe recipe is like a stripped-down mac and cheese.

Cacio e Pepe

pasta

tsp. black pepper

Pecorino

Bring 3 quarts water to a boil in a 5-qt. pot. Season with salt; add pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until about 2 minutes before tender. Drain, reserving ¾ cup pasta cooking water.

Meanwhile, melt 2 Tbsp. butter in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add pepper and cook, swirling pan, until toasted, about 1 minute.

Add ½ cup reserved pasta water to skillet and bring to a simmer. Add pasta and remaining butter. Reduce heat to low and add Grana Padano, stirring and tossing with tongs until melted. Remove pan from heat; add Pecorino, stirring and tossing until cheese melts, sauce coats the pasta, and pasta is al dente. (Add more pasta water if sauce seems dry.) Transfer pasta to warm bowls and serve.

Roasting the vegetables along with a trio of umami-rich ingredients (miso, mushrooms, and kombu) give this meat-free broth a deep, satisfying flavor that can be used in a variety of soups or braises. You can even sip it on its own or top it with scallions and fresh chiles.

Vegan Umami Broth

white miso

shiitake mushrooms

kombu

onions, unpeeled, halved through root, very thinly sliced

medium carrot, unpeeled, very thinly sliced

celery stalk, thinly sliced

garlic,

parsley

Preheat oven to 300º. Whisk miso, oil, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Crush mushrooms and kombu with your hands over a rimmed baking sheet. Add onions, carrot, celery, garlic, and parsley and toss to combine. Drizzle miso mixture over vegetable mixture and toss to coat. Bake, tossing halfway through, until vegetables are slightly shriveled and mixture is fragrant, 60–75 minutes.

Transfer vegetable mixture to a large pot. Add peppercorns and 4 quarts cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until broth is reduced by half, 60–75.

Let broth cool, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids.

Do Ahead: Broth can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill, or freeze up to 3 months.

Roasted {Brined} Turkey and Gravy

canola oil

Neck and giblets from turkey

butter

flour

Pan drippings from roasted turkey (about

chicken/turkey/vegetable stock

Salt and pepper

red apple, sliced (no need to core or peel)

onion, sliced

cinnamon

water

rosemary

sage

Canola oil

salt

brown sugar

vegetable stock

allspice berries

ginger

heavily iced water

turkey

About 4-5 days before roasting, take the turkey...

About 4-5 days before roasting, take the turkey out of the freezer (if using a fresh turkey, you can omit this step and just keep the turkey refrigerated), and place it in a 9X13-inch pan or larger to catch any raw turkey juices and place the pan in the refrigerator to thaw.

1-2 days before roasting, combine the vegetable stock,...

1-2 days before roasting, combine the vegetable stock, salt, brown sugar, peppercorns, allspice berries, and candied ginger in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Stir occasionally to dissolve solids and bring to a boil. Then remove the brine from the heat, cool to room temperature, and refrigerate until ready to use.

The night before roasting, combine the brine, water...

The night before roasting, combine the brine, water and ice in a large bucket (5-gallon or larger). Remove the innards from the turkey and place the thawed turkey breast side down in the brine. The turkey should be fully submerged in the liquid and ice. If necessary, weigh down the bird to ensure it is fully immersed, cover, and refrigerate or set in a cool area for 8 to 16 hours. Because I live in a cold climate, I usually stick my brining turkey on the back porch or in the garage, after I have made sure it will be cool enough to keep the turkey safe from high, warmer temperatures.

Move an oven rack to the lowest position...

Move an oven rack to the lowest position and preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. Remove the bird from brine and rinse inside and out with cold water. Discard the brine.

Place the bird on a roasting rack inside...

Place the bird on a roasting rack inside a half sheet pan or roasting pan and pat dry with paper towels. Combine the apple, onion, cinnamon stick, and 1 cup of water in a microwave safe dish and microwave on high for 5 minutes. Add steeped aromatics to the turkey’s cavity along with the rosemary and sage. Tuck the wings underneath the bird and coat the skin liberally with canola oil.

Roast the turkey on lowest level of the...

Roast the turkey on lowest level of the oven at 500 degrees F for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to roast for another 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the internal temperature of the turkey is 161 degrees. A 14 to 16 pound bird should require a total of 2 to 2 1/2 hours of roasting. Let the turkey rest, loosely covered with foil or a large mixing bowl for 15 minutes before carving.

For the gravy: In a medium saucepan, heat...

For the gravy: In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat until shimmering. Brown the turkey neck and giblets in the oil, turning every few minutes, until they are well browned and there are little browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pot. Remove the giblets and neck and discard. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the butter to the pot and let it melt, stirring and scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the flour and pan drippings (separate the fat from the pan drippings before adding or else the gravy will be too greasy) and stir to combine. Cook over medium-low or medium heat, stirring constantly, for 1-2 minutes, until the butter/flour mixture is golden. Slowly whisk in the broth and cook over medium heat, stirring or whisking often, for about 10-15 minutes until the gravy has thickened and is bubbly and hot. Season with salt and pepper.

A make-ahead gravy that doesn’t rely on turkey drippings or a roux. The gravy’s depth of flavor comes from roasted poultry bones and—surprise!—a sprinkle of MSG, which has an umami-to-the-max effect. (Despite exaggerated fearmongering reports in the ’70s, MSG is harmless in such small quantities; read more here.) If you have the backbone from breaking down the turkey into pieces, use it in tandem with the wings. 

Good Gravy

extra-virgin olive oil, divided

unpeeled,

scrubbed,

Tbsp. all-purpose flour

Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature

amontillado sherry

turkey stock

tsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper (optional)

A make-ahead gravy that doesn’t rely on turkey drippings or a roux. The gravy’s depth of flavor comes from roasted poultry bones and—surprise!—a sprinkle of MSG, which has an umami-to-the-max effect. (Despite exaggerated fearmongering reports in the ’70s, MSG is harmless in such small quantities; read more here.) If you have the backbone from breaking down the turkey into pieces, use it in tandem with the wings. See all of the Absolutely, Positively Perfect Thanksgiving recipes here.

Preheat oven to 450°. Toss wings in a large cast-iron skillet with 2 Tbsp. oil until coated. Roast, tossing halfway through, until golden brown and starting to crisp, 25–35 minutes.

Remove wings from oven and add garlic, shallots, ginger, mushrooms, peppercorns, and remaining 2 Tbsp. oil to pan; toss to coat. Return to oven and roast, tossing halfway through, until wings are deeply browned and crisp and vegetables are browned, 30–40 minutes more.

Meanwhile, mash together flour and butter in a small bowl with your fingers or a fork until homogenous. Set beurre manié aside.

Remove skillet from oven and set on stovetop over medium-high heat. Add sherry and cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until sherry is almost completely reduced, about 2 minutes.

Scrape wings and aromatics into a medium pot and add parsley and stock. Bring to a low simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer gently, skimming fat from surface occasionally and turning wings so both sides get a chance to be submerged, until liquid is flavorful, mahogany in color, and reduced by about one-third, 30–40 minutes.

Fish out wings; discard. Pour mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring glass; discard solids. Rinse out pot and pour turkey mixture back in. Bring to a simmer over medium. Whisking constantly, add reserved beurre manié and whisk until completely incorporated. Simmer, whisking often and skimming any foam from surface, until gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon, 6–8 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in vinegar and MSG. Taste gravy and season with salt and pepper if desired.

Do Ahead: Gravy (without vinegar and MSG) can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and chill. Reheat over medium until simmering, then add vinegar and MSG.

Our mission: To miraculously roast a turkey that is well seasoned, juicy, and—can we type this loudly enough?—PROPERLY COOKED! Every part of the bird deserves equal love and appreciation, without a dry bite in the house. Our solution: The absolute inarguably best way to cook a turkey is to break it down into parts, dry-brine it, and roast it on a wire rack in a baking sheet. The parts expose every piece for even cooking. If the idea of doing surgery on a raw turkey gives you a stress rash, ask the butcher to do it (even at the supermarket, we called and asked!). Here’s your script: “Hello, talented and smart and underappreciated butcher [pause for uncomfortable laughter], I’d like to purchase a 12-to-14-pound turkey, cut into five pieces: the legs, wings, keep the breast whole, backbone removed. Yes, I’m doing that ridiculous Bon Appétit recipe. Yes, it better not suck.” Works every time. 

Spiced and Glazed Roast Turkey

turkey,

Tbsp. whole pink or black peppercorns

garlic powder

onion powder

light brown sugar

Tbsp. smoked paprika

herbs

garlic cloves, crushed

orange zest

soy sauce

⅓ cup (packed) light brown sugar

sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

Tbsp. neutral oil (such as vegetable, peanut, or canola)

spice mill

Our mission: To miraculously roast a turkey that is well seasoned, juicy, and—can we type this loudly enough?—PROPERLY COOKED! Every part of the bird deserves equal love and appreciation, without a dry bite in the house. Our solution: The absolute inarguably best way to cook a turkey is to break it down into parts, dry-brine it, and roast it on a wire rack in a baking sheet. The parts expose every piece for even cooking. If the idea of doing surgery on a raw turkey gives you a stress rash, ask the butcher to do it (even at the supermarket, we called and asked!). Here’s your script: “Hello, talented and smart and underappreciated butcher [pause for uncomfortable laughter], I’d like to purchase a 12-to-14-pound turkey, cut into five pieces: the legs, wings, keep the breast whole, backbone removed. Yes, I’m doing that ridiculous Bon Appétit recipe. Yes, it better not suck.” Works every time. See all of the Absolutely, Positively Perfect Thanksgiving recipes here.

Place turkey, breast side up, on a cutting board and pat dry. Grip a wing and pull it outward so you can see where it attaches to the body. Using a sharp boning or chef’s knife, cut though the joint to separate the wing from the breast (if you hit bone, you’re in the wrong spot; pull the wing out farther to help you get into the place where the joint meets the socket). Remove wing; repeat on the other side.

Cut through skin connecting 1 leg to carcass. Pull leg back until the ball joint pops out of its socket; cut through the joint to separate leg. Repeat on the other side.

Now for the breast: Position the turkey breast side down with the opening facing you. Using kitchen shears, cut along one side of backbone until you get all the way through the neck end, then turn the turkey 180° and cut through the other side to remove the backbone (save it for making stock).

Very finely grind black and pink peppercorns in a spice mill or mortar and pestle; transfer to a medium bowl. Add salt, garlic powder, onion powder, brown sugar, and paprika and use your fingers to mix together.

Place turkey pieces, skin side up, on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle salt mixture liberally all over turkey, patting to adhere. You may not need all of it, but it’s good to have extra since some will end up on the baking sheet. Chill bird, uncovered, at least 24 hours and up to 2 days.

Remove turkey from wire rack and rinse baking sheet and rack if needed (turkey will most likely release some liquid). Line baking sheet with 3 layers of foil to make cleanup easy and set rack back inside. Arrange turkey pieces on rack, skin side up, and let sit at room temperature 2–3 hours to help decrease the cooking time.

Meanwhile, cook herbs, garlic, orange zest, soy sauce, brown sugar, and vinegar in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved and glaze thickens slightly (it should just barely coat a spoon), 10–12 minutes. Remove glaze from heat.

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 425°. Rub turkey with oil and pour 1 cup water into baking sheet. Roast turkey, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until skin is mostly golden brown, 20–25 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 300° and continue to roast turkey, brushing with glaze every 20 minutes and adding more water by ½-cupfuls as needed to maintain some liquid in baking sheet, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of breast registers 150°, and 170° when inserted into the thickest part of the thighs, 50–70 minutes longer (total cooking time will be 1–1½ hours). Skin should be deep golden brown and shiny. Transfer turkey to a cutting board; tent loosely with foil. Let rest 30–60 minutes before carving.

The mashed potatoes’ impossibly creamy texture is a credit to the right guy for the job: the German Butterball. (We tested 10 contenders—it was the butteriest in flavor, and fluffiest when mashed.) Plus, roasting the potatoes first concentrates the flavor. On the continuum from slightly textured to exquisitely satiny spuds, use a potato masher (rustic, but fine!), ricer (nicer!), or food mill fitted with the finest disk (woooow!). A smoky breadcrumb and-potato-chip topping, inspired by the flavors of patatas bravas, brings something new to the table.

Mashed Potatoes 

lb. German Butterball

thyme

(or more) whole milk

Tbsp. (or more) kosher salt

lemon

½"-thick slices country-style bread, torn into 1" pieces

kettle-style potato chips (such as Cape Cod)

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

thyme, leaves picked

hot smoked Spanish paprika

The impossibly creamy texture of these mashed potatoes is a credit to choosing the right guy for the job: the German Butterball. (We tested 10 contenders—it was the butteriest in flavor, and fluffiest when mashed.) Plus, roasting them first helps concentrate their flavor. On the continuum from slightly textured to exquisitely satiny spuds, use a potato masher (rustic, but fine!), ricer (nicer!), or food mill fitted with the finest disk (woooow!). A smoky breadcrumb and-potato-chip topping, inspired by the flavors of patatas bravas, brings something new to the table. See all of the Absolutely, Positively Perfect Thanksgiving recipes here.

Preheat oven to 400°. If using German Butterballs, place potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet or in a cast-iron skillet and roast, turning halfway through, until very tender (a paring knife inserted into the center should meet with no resistance), 45–50 minutes.

If using Yukon Golds, place on a rimmed baking sheet or in a large baking dish and cover tightly with foil. Roast until very tender, 80–95 minutes.

Meanwhile, remove 4 garlic cloves from garlic head and set aside for the topping. Cut remaining head of garlicin half crosswise and place in a medium saucepan with thyme, peppercorns, butter, 4 cups milk, and 1 Tbsp. salt.

Using a vegetable peeler, remove wide strips of zest from half of lemon and add to pot; set lemon aside for the topping. Bring mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Immediately remove from heat, cover, and let sit at least 30 minutes.

When potatoes are done, use a paring knife to remove skins (it’s important to do this while they are very hot; hold them in a kitchen towel to protect your hands), then pass them through a ricer or food mill fitted with the fine disk into a large pot (or simply mash them in the pot with a potato masher).

Return garlic mixture to a simmer, then pour through a fine-mesh sieve into pot with potatoes; discard solids. Set potato mixture over medium heat and whisk until liquid is incorporated and potatoes are very smooth and bubbling. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Cover and keep warm until ready to serve.

Do Ahead: Potatoes can be made 2 days ahead. Transfer to an airtight container and let cool. Cover and chill. Reheat over medium, whisking constantly and loosening with more milk if needed.

Pulse reserved 4 garlic cloves in a food processor until finely chopped, about 15 seconds. Add bread and potato chips and process in long pulses until coarse crumbs form, about 1 minute.

Heat butter in a large ovenproof skillet over medium until foaming. Add breadcrumb mixture and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until mixture is coated in butter and fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer skillet to oven; bake, tossing every 5 minutes, until crumbs and chips are evenly dark golden brown, 15–20 minutes.

Meanwhile, finely grate remaining lemon zest from reserved lemon into a small bowl. Add thyme leaves and paprika and toss to combine.

Remove crumb mixture from oven and immediately toss in thyme mixture. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Let topping cool in pan, then add parsley.

To serve, transfer mashed potatoes to a large bowl and sprinkle topping over.

Do Ahead: Topping (without parsley) can be made 2 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

With leeks, fennel, sugar snap peas, and English peas, this soup is perfect for ushering in spring. While it’s definitely a lighter take on the classic minestrone, it gets a lot of depth of flavor from the ground spices, toasted garlic, and white miso.

Spring Minestrone

fennel seeds

olive oil

garlic cloves, thinly sliced

scallions,

½ serrano chile, thinly sliced (optional)

lemon zest

cannellini beans,

sugar

baby spinach

peas

Tbsp. white miso

Coarsely grind coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and peppercorns in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. Cook oil, garlic, and ground spices in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic is softened but not crisp, about 2 minutes. Add scallions, chile (if using), and lemon zest and cook, stirring occasionally, until scallions are softened and almost completely charred, 5–7 minutes.

Pour 6 cups cold water into saucepan, increase heat to medium-high, and bring to a simmer. Add leeks, fennel bulb and stalks, beans, and sugar snap peas (pan will look crowded but vegetables will shrink as they cook). Reduce heat to medium. Add a large pinch of salt and simmer, stirring occasionally, until leeks, fennel, and sugar snap peas are fork-tender, about 5 minutes. Add spinach, English peas, and miso and cook, stirring, just until spinach is wilted, about 10 seconds; season with salt.

Divide soup among bowls. Top with fennel fronds.

Do Ahead: Soup can be made 1 day ahead. Transfer to an airtight container and chill.

Kadhi is similar in texture to cream of [fill in the blank] soup, but with no cream, and…well…better. All you need to make it are yogurt, chickpea flour, and spices. But don’t let the simplicity fool you: Kadhi is both deeply comforting and insanely complex in its flavor, like a cozy blanket draped over a hot bowl of white rice. The exact recipe varies from region to region in India, and sometimes includes add-ins, like chickpea flour–based fritters called pakoras, but we like it thick, rich, and spice-forward, with a pleasant tanginess at the end. If you don’t like peppercorn flavor, feel free to nix them or cut the amount in half.

Kadhi (Turmeric-Yogurt Soup)

whole-milk plain yogurt (not Greek)

chickpea flour

turmeric

bay leaves

black mustard seeds

fenugreek seeds

kosher salt,

lime juice (optional)

red chiles

asafetida (optional, but really great)

red chili powder

rice (for serving)

Mix yogurt and chickpea flour in a large measuring glass until smooth and homogeneous. Stir in 1 cup water, followed by turmeric—the mixture should be a pale yellow color; set aside.

Melt 1 Tbsp. ghee in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium heat. Add cloves, bay leaves, peppercorns, mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, and ½ tsp. cumin seeds and cook, stirring, until mustard seeds start to pop, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to low and add reserved yogurt mixture and 3 cups water; mix well. Season with 2 tsp. salt. Taste—the mixture should be tangy, rich, and distinctly flavored by the spices. Add lime juice to taste and more salt if needed.

Increase heat to high and bring to a boil, stirring constantly (if you stop stirring, it will curdle). Insert a large long-handled spoon into the pot to prevent soup from boiling over and let cook 10 minutes without stirring (if at any point it looks like it might boil over, reduce heat to medium-high for a minute before turning it back up). The kadhi should become thicker and brighter in color and look like a creamy soup. Taste again and add more lime juice if needed.

About 5 minutes before kadhi is done cooking, melt remaining 4½ tsp. ghee in a small saucepan or butter warmer over medium-high. Cook remaining 1 tsp. cumin seeds until they start to sputter and turn brown, a matter of seconds. Immediately remove pan from heat and stir in chiles, asafetida (if using), and chili powder.

Stir spiced ghee into kadhi and serve in bowls over rice.

Brad Leone’s crispy grilled chicken is glazed in funky-sweet fermented garlic honey.

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Kadhi (Turmeric-Yogurt Soup)

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