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Step 1
Build a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Allow the grill to heat for 10 to 15 minutes, and then clean the grill grate with a wire brush. Pierce each eggplant a few times with the tip of a paring knife to allow steam to escape during cooking. Grill the eggplants directly over the fire, covered, using tongs to rotate them every 8 minutes or so, until charred all around and the eggplant offers absolutely no resistance when pierced with a skewer (make sure to check the neck of the eggplants, as the flesh there tends to be very dense), 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer the eggplants to a large plate or a baking sheet and let cool for 15 minutes. Set a colander in a large bowl. Trim off and discard the tops of the eggplants. Slit them lengthwise and use a spoon to scoop the pulp into the colander; make sure to get all of the pulp that clings to the skin. Let drain for 30 minutes; shake the colander occasionally to encourage the moisture to drain out. Transfer the eggplant to a food processor and add the lemon juice, tahini, garlic, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Process to a smooth purée, 45 to 60 seconds, scraping down the bowl once or twice with a rubber spatula. With the machine running, stream in the olive oil. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and lemon juice, if needed. Transfer the baba to a serving bowl. Cover and let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to bloom and meld. Use the back of a spoon to create a swirl in the surface of the baba. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with sumac, and serve. (Leftover baba will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; make sure to bring it to room temperature before serving.)
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