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Place the desired amount of sugar in a chilled flute or other glass. Sprinkle with the bitters and let it soak in, about 1 minute.
Pour in the Cognac, if using, and then swirl the glass gently to combine. If necessary, stir to dissolve the sugar. Top off with Champagne, add the lemon juice or zest, and serve. Originally published May 21, 2017.