Step 1

Prepare 5 dried California or guajillo and 3 dried ancho chiles: Cut the stems off with kitchen shears, then cut in half vertically. Open each chile up and remove and discard the stems, seeds, and veins. Rinse under cool running water to remove any remaining seeds. Dice 1/2 medium white onion.

Step 2

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add half of the onion (reserve the remaining for blending later). Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and starting to brown a little bit, about 4 minutes. Add the chiles and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Step 3

Turn off the heat. Add 4 cups water, 2 medium Roma tomatoes (keep them whole), and 1/8 teaspoon of the kosher salt. Return to high heat, cover, and bring to a boil. Continue to boil, flipping the tomatoes when the skin on the submerged parts start to split, about 1 minute. Add 2 fresh oregano sprigs, cover, and boil until the tomato skin is falling off, the tomato is tender, and the chiles are rehydrated, 6 to 7 minutes more.

Step 4

Turn off the heat. Uncover and let cool for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, fit a fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl or large liquid measuring cup.

Step 5

Pour the chile mixture through the strainer. Remove and discard the oregano. Remove the ancho chiles and set aside. Do not discard the remaining contents of the strainer.

Step 6

Place 1 peeled garlic clove and the reserved onion in a blender. Add 1/2 cup of the strained cooking liquid and blend until smooth. Add the contents of the strainer and 1 cup of the cooking liquid, and blend until smooth. Fit the now-empty strainer over another bowl. Pour the sauce through the strainer, pushing it through until you are left with a chunky paste in the strainer. Discard the contents of the strainer.

Step 7

Rinse the blender. Add the reserved ancho chiles and 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid and blend until glossy and smooth.

Step 8

Wipe the saucepan clean. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and heat over medium heat until shimmering. Turn off the heat. Carefully pour in both blended mixtures (careful, it will sputter) and return to medium heat.

Step 9

Add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon honey, 1/2 teaspoon mushroom umami powder, and 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika. Stir to combine and bring to a low simmer. Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture reduces and thickens to a gravy-like consistency, 8 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the sauce rest for about 5 minutes for the flavors to meld and to cool off slightly before using. Taste and season with more kosher salt as needed.