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Place cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a medium nonstick skillet and set over medium-low heat. Cook, tossing frequently, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add cloves, mace, coriander seeds, cumin, and white peppercorns, and continue to cook, tossing frequently, until spices are fragrant and darkened in spots, 4 to 5 minutes longer. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind into a fine powder. Transfer mixture to a small bowl, and set aside. Vicky Wasik Add spur chiles to now-empty skillet and toast over medium-low heat until fragrant and charred in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside to cool for 2 minutes, then transfer to spice grinder and grind into a fine powder. Set aside. Vicky Wasik Add lemongrass to skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until dry and lightly charred at edges, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate or rimmed baking sheet and set aside. Add shallots to skillet and cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until shallots just begin to shrivel and char at edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Add coriander root and garlic, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until lightly charred at edges, about 3 minutes. Transfer to plate with lemongrass, and set aside to cool. Vicky Wasik Spread shrimp paste evenly in the center of a 10- by 6-inch piece of foil (or a 10- by 6-inch piece of banana leaf). Close foil to form a flat packet, add to now-empty skillet, and toast over medium-low heat, turning occasionally, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. Vicky Wasik Combine toasted lemongrass, shallots, coriander root, and garlic with salt in a granite mortar and pestle. Pound until a coarse paste forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Pounding thoroughly between each addition to break down and incorporate ingredients into the paste, add ground spur chiles, toasted shrimp paste, and ground spice mixture until a very fine, dry, sticky paste forms, about 10 minutes longer. While pounding, use a spoon to occasionally flip the paste over in the mortar to ensure a consistent final texture. Use right away or transfer curry paste to an airtight container, covering paste with plastic wrap pressed directly onto its surface to prevent it from drying out. Vicky Wasik
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