Poulet's Jerk Chicken Thighs

In a small bowl, combine the peanut oil, garlic, chile(s), celery seeds, cumin, allspice, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, salt, and sugar and stir to make a smooth paste. Spread 2 to 3 teaspoons of the paste on the skin of the chicken thighs. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking. Build a medium fire in a charcoal or wood grill or heat a gas grill to medium. Use a clean, well-cured grate. If you are using charcoal or wood, you want hot embers, not flames. Arrange the thighs, skin-side down, on the grill and let them cook for 5 minutes or so before you move them. After that, I like to flip them every 5 minutes or so to keep them from sticking and to keep from burning the skin. Plan on standing, turning, flipping and generally worrying the chicken for 30 to 40 minutes. If your chicken is burning or the fat is igniting flames, turn the heat down or move the chicken to a cooler spot on the grill. (You can also douse the flames with a squirt bottle if there’s no room to move the chicken out of the way.) Work slowly and the result will be a deep-mahogany-colored exterior concealing a well-cooked but juicy interior. That smoky flavor and crispy skin are worth the wait. When the chicken is done, you will see that is has shrunk considerably. The meat should be firm but with a little give when you poke it with your finger. Look for a reading of 175°F on an instant-read thermometer. If you’re unsure, cut into a piece and take a peek. Look for clear, not red or pink, juices running from the spot where you pierced the meat and opaque, barley pink flesh at the bone. Platter the chicken and serve.