curry leaves

I ate a version of this rice as an accompaniment to a few deep-fried paddles of Australian crab, sitting at the kitchen counter of Paul Carmichael’s excellent Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney. It tasted of a world far away, of Mr. Carmichael’s childhood in Barbados, in the Lesser Antilles, where influences of Africa, India, China and Britain combine in the food: the grains fried in butter scented with murky yellow curry powder, warm and fragrant, and flavored with fiery minced habanero and a salty punch of soy and oyster sauces. I sighed when I finished and asked for a recipe. I’ve been messing with it ever since. Please note: You’ll end up with more curry paste than you’ll need to season the rice, even if you season aggressively. Refrigerate the extra to make the dish a second time (it keeps well), or to enliven ground meat for a Caribbean-ish version of sloppy joes, even just to improve a bowl of instant ramen.

Curried Rice

black pepper

white pepper

curry powder

canola or other neutral oil

unsalted butter

shallots,

garlic cloves,

soy sauce, plus additional as needed

oyster sauce, plus additional as needed

sugar

habanero

white rice, cooled

limes, 1 juiced and 1 quartered

Place a large skillet over medium heat, and add to it the black pepper and white pepper. Toast, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the curry powder, shake again and toast for 1 minute more. Scrape the toasted-curry-powder blend into a small bowl using a rubber spatula, and set aside.

Add the oil to the skillet, and swirl it around. When it shimmers, add the curry leaves, and fry, 1 minute. Stir in 4 tablespoons butter. When it melts, add the shallots and garlic. Lower the heat, and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallots are soft and translucent, 5 to 8 minutes.

Raise the heat to medium. Stir in the toasted-curry-powder blend, followed by 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 1/2 tablespoons oyster sauce and the sugar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add habanero to taste, then adjust the levels of soy sauce and oyster sauce if you want to go a little saltier or sweeter. Scrape the curry paste into the small bowl.

To finish the dish, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the skillet, and heat over medium-high. When the butter melts and foams, flake the rice into it, and allow it to crisp slightly, then stir a few heaping tablespoons of curry paste into the rice to season to taste. Finish with lime juice to taste, and serve with lime wedges alongside fried fish, stewed chicken, goat or lamb, or just on its own. Transfer remaining curry paste to a lidded container. Let cool, cover and refrigerate up to 1 month.

This is comfort food, Indian-style, adapted from a recipe by Madhur Jaffrey. It’s also vegan, and perfect for a fall evening. Use a mixture of cultivated mushrooms; they come in all shapes and sizes. Look for royal trumpets, a large, meaty type of oyster mushroom; shiitakes, and small portobellos. Use some wild mushrooms too, if you can, like golden chanterelles, lobster or hen of the woods. You can make this as spicy as you wish, but be sure to include some cayenne and green chile, to complement and play off the creamy coconut milk sauce. Serve with basmati rice, rice noodles or mashed potatoes.

Winter Squash and Wild Mushroom Curry

vegetable oil

butternut

Kosher salt and black pepper

green chiles,

shallots

black mustard seeds

cumin seeds

curry leaves (optional)

coriander

cayenne

turmeric

coconut milk

lime juice

Cilantro sprigs,

In a wide skillet, heat oil over medium-high. When hot, add squash cubes in one layer. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for about 2 minutes, letting cubes brown slightly, then flip and cook for 2 minutes more. Use a slotted spoon to lift squash out, and set aside.

Cut a lengthwise slit in each chile to open it, but leave whole. (This helps the chiles heat the sauce without making it too spicy.)

Add shallots, salt lightly and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add mustard seeds, cumin seeds and curry leaves, if using, and let sizzle for 30 seconds, then add garlic, coriander, cayenne, turmeric and chiles. Stir well and cook for 30 seconds more.

Add mushrooms, season with salt and toss to coat. Cook, stirring, until mushrooms begin to soften, about 5 minutes.

Return squash cubes to skillet, stir in coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Lower heat to medium and simmer for another 5 minutes. If mixture looks dry, thin with a little water. Taste and season with salt.

Before serving, stir in lime juice. Transfer to a warm serving dish and garnish with cilantro.

A properly made crisp and savory Indian dosa is wonderfully delicious, and fairly simple to make at home, with this caveat: the batter must be fermented overnight for the correct texture and requisite sour flavor. However, once the batter is ready, it can be refrigerated and kept for several days, even a week. With a traditional spicy potato filling, dosas makes a perfect vegetarian breakfast or lunch. Serve them with your favorite chutney.

Classic Masala Dosa

rice

urad dal (split husked black lentils)

fenugreek seeds

salt

Vegetable oil,

ghee oil

mustard seeds

red peppers

onion,

asafetida

ginger

green chiles, finely chopped

yellow-fleshed potatoes,

cilantro, leaves and tender stems

Make the dosa batter: Put rice in a bowl, rinse well and cover with 4 cups cold  water. Put urad dal and fenugreek seeds in a small bowl, rinse well and add cold water to cover. Leave both to soak for 4 to 6 hours.

Drain rice and dal-fenugreek mixture in separate colanders. Put rice in a food processor, blender or wet-dry grinder. Add 1 cup cold water and grind to a smooth paste. It will take about 10 minutes, and it may be necessary to work in batches. Repeat the process with the dal-fenugreek mixture.

Combine the two pastes in a medium mixing bowl. Whisk together, adding enough water to obtain a medium-thick batter. You should have about 6 cups. Cover bowl with a kitchen towel and set in a warm place. Let ferment until the surface is bubbly, about 8 hours. Stir in the salt. Use the batter straight away or refrigerate for later use. (Batter will keep for up to a week, refrigerated. Thin with water if necessary before proceeding.)

Make the potato filling: Put ghee in a wide skillet over medium heat. When oil is wavy, add mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Wait for seeds to pop, about 1 minute, then add red peppers and onion. Cook, stirring until onions have softened, about 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt. Add turmeric, asafetida, ginger, curry leaves, garlic and green chile. Stir to coat and let sizzle for 1 minute.

Add potatoes and 1/2 cup water. Cook, stirring well to combine, until liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Mash potatoes a bit with the back of a wooden spoon. Season well with salt, add cilantro, then set aside at room temperature. (Potato filling may be prepared up to a day in advance.)

To make dosas, set a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Brush with about 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Ladle 1/4 cup batter in the center of griddle. Using bottom of ladle, quickly spread batter outward in a circular motion to a diameter of about 7 inches. Drizzle 1/2 teaspoon oil over the top. Leave dosa batter to brown gradually until outer edges begin to look dry, about 2 minutes, cooking on one side only. With a spatula, carefully loosen dosa from griddle. Bottom should be crisp and beautifully browned. Spoon 1/2 cup potato filling onto top of dosa, centering it as a strip in the middle of the round dosa. Flatten the potato mixture slightly. Using the spatula, fold the sides of the dosa around the filling to make a cylindrical shape. Serve immediately. Continue making dosas one at a time.

There as many versions of dal as there are Indian cooks. This is just one of mine, made with red split lentils and with no vegetable other than onions. The flavor is very South Indian, but the use of butter instead of oil (I actually use the spiced clarified butter niter kibbeh) and the inclusion of vadouvan at the end (to refresh the soup's flavor) take this out of strictly traditional territory.

Dal (Spiced Lentil Soup) Recipe

oil, butter,

onions,

ginger,

jalapeño chiles, minced

asafoetida

mustard seed

coriander,

cumin

paprika

(2 cups) red lentils (masoor dal)

vadouvan, garam masala, or curry powder

Yogurt and minced cilantro, for garnish

In a large, heavy pot, heat fat on high, then add onions. Cook until soft and slightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes, then add ginger, chiles, and spices. Stir constantly to prevent spices from sticking and burning. 

When mustard seeds start to pop, add lentils and 6 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, until lentils almost completely fall apart, about 1 hour. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking and add water as needed. When lentils are soft, add salt to taste.

Ten minutes before serving, stir in vadouvan. Serve warm with yogurt and cilantro, if desired.

Dal can be made with all kinds of lentils and cooking methods. These vary not just from region to region, but also from day to day, mood to mood. Some cooks like dal soupy, others chunky. There are dals for special occasions, seasoned with charcoal smoke and butter or padded out luxuriously with cream, as well as lighter, leaner dals that can restore you when you’re not feeling well.The flavor of this everyday, Gujarati-style dal comes from the pure nuttiness of split pigeon peas, boiled until tender and bolstered with spices bloomed in hot ghee. This fat-tempering technique, called vaghar in Gujarati, has many names and many uses across the country. In this case, the tempering is a great introduction to the resourcefulness and finesse of Indian home cooks: Just a few tablespoons of carefully seasoned fat, tipped in at the very last moment, transform an entire pot. 

Toor Dal (Split Yellow Pigeon Peas)

toor dal (split yellow pigeon peas)

Roma tomatoes, roughly chopped

peanuts

ghee

Indian cinnamon

red dried chiles,

cloves

Prepare the dal: Soak the pigeon peas in a large bowl of warm water for about 1 hour. (They will have swelled a little.) Thoroughly rinse the soaked pigeon peas with fresh water, then tip the drained pigeon peas into a pot.

Add tomatoes, turmeric, salt and 5 cups water, and bring to a boil over high. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until very tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

Use an immersion blender to purée some of the dal, leaving some intact and getting some very smooth, or whisk vigorously to break up some of the soft dal. Stir in the peanuts and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the dal is very tender, about 30 minutes. Taste and adjust with salt. If the dal has become too thick for your liking, stir in a splash of water.

Prepare the tempering: In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the ghee. When hot, carefully add all of the tempering ingredients (the mustard seeds will sputter!) and swirl the pan until you can smell all the toasted spices, about 30 seconds. Pour everything over the hot dal.

In the south Indian state of Kerala, a street stall selling food is called a thattukada, and one of the most well-known dishes served is something called chicken fry, or thattu chicken. The chef Asha Gomez, who grew up in the Kerala port city of Trivandrum and now lives in Atlanta, took that street chicken and adapted it into a quick-cooking recipe that relies on coconut oil for crispness, and curry leaves, ginger and garlic for flavor. It gets its heat and color from Kashmiri chile powder, a fruity pepper used in many Indian dishes. It’s worth seeking out the pepper online, or at a market that caters to Indian shoppers, where you can also find the fresh curry leaves that are key to this dish. Ms. Gomez serves it with the flaky paratha that’s unique to Kerala, but any flatbread, or even rice, works well. It’s also a great dish to set out as a nibble with drinks, as they do in the toddy shops of southern India.

Kerala Roadside Chicken

garlic,

1/2-inch-piece ginger, peeled

chicken

Kashmiri chile powder (or substitute hot paprika)

fennel seeds

garam masala

turmeric powder

coconut oil

whole small dried red chiles (such

Prepare the chicken: Smash and chop the garlic and ginger. Then, using a mortar and pestle, blend them together into a paste.

In a large bowl, combine chicken, garlic-ginger paste, spices and salt. Mix well so the spices are evenly distributed. Set chicken aside, covered, in the refrigerator for an hour.

In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat the coconut oil on medium heat until a small piece of chicken sizzles vigorously when you add it. Add half the chicken (or however much fits comfortably in a single layer) and deep-fry for 5 to 6 minutes, turning any pieces poking out of the oil halfway through if necessary, until every piece is cooked through. Set the fried chicken aside to drain on a paper-towel-lined plate, and repeat with the remaining chicken.

Make the garnish: Heat coconut oil in a medium sauté pan over high heat. When a small piece of shallot sizzles vigorously in the oil, add the shallots, dried chiles and curry leaves. Cook, stirring often, until shallots are golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garnish to the fried chicken and serve with warm paratha or another flatbread. 

The hallmarks of this tasty Sri Lankan chicken curry include creamy coconut milk and homemade curry powder, which is made by toasting and grinding whole spices. Don’t let the long ingredient list deter you; once you have everything together, this dish is very easy to make. Tiny bird chiles are small but potent. In Sri Lanka, the curries are spicy, but you can use as few or as many chiles as you’d like. Prepare it in advance and you’ll find that it’s even more delicious the next day. Serve with some long-grain rice and a few different vegetable curries.

Kukul Mas Maluwa (Sri Lankan Chicken Curry)

coriander seeds

cardamom seeds (from about 8 green pods)

black peppercorns

yellow onion, chopped

garlic cloves, finely chopped

sweet paprika

plum tomatoes, chopped

bird’s-eye chiles, minced

(6-inch) pieces pandan leaves

cinnamon stick

lemongrass

full-fat coconut milk

white vinegar

In a small skillet, combine the coriander, cumin, fennel, cardamom, peppercorns and 15 curry leaves. Heat the spice mixture over medium heat, stirring often, until the spices are toasted and fragrant, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind into powder. (You should have about 3 1/2 tablespoons.) Set aside the toasted curry powder.

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the coconut oil over medium-high. Add the onion, garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring often, until the onion has softened, about 8 minutes. Add the toasted curry powder, paprika, turmeric and salt, and cook, stirring, another 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, chiles and remaining 5 curry leaves.

Add the chicken and toss to cover it in the onion mixture. Add the pandan, cinnamon and lemongrass, reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook, for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the coconut milk and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has thickened slightly, about 20 minutes more. (The light meat will be cooked before the dark meat; you can simply remove it when it’s done and add it back in when the dark meat is cooked.)

Add the vinegar and season to taste with salt.

This recipe for a simple jackfruit sabzi comes from the British chef Romy Gill, who adapted much of her Punjabi family’s vegetarian home cooking for her book “Zaika: Vegan Recipe from India.” In Burnpur, where Ms. Gill grew up, jackfruit grew wild on the trees around her home, and her mother worked with an oiled knife to take apart the heavy, unwieldy fruit. But in England, where she lives now, Ms. Gill reaches for canned jackfruit. Make sure to pick vegetal, unripe jackfruit in brine — rather than sweet, ripe jackfruit in syrup — then drain the pieces, breaking up any large ones until bite-size, and add them to the pan. Serve the sabzi with rice, roti, or, as Ms. Gill often does for her daughters, rolled up in a big, tender wrap.

Jackfruit Sabzi

neutral oil,

can jackfruit pieces in brine, drained (about 10 ounces)

beefsteak or large Roma tomatoes, finely chopped

amchur (dried mango powder)

Kashmiri chile powder

kosher salt,

Basmati rice

Heat a medium skillet over medium heat, and add the oil and mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds start to pop, stir in the onion and curry leaves. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 8 minutes, until the onions are golden brown.

Add the jackfruit (breaking up any large pieces with your fingers), tomatoes, spices and salt, and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the moisture has evaporated and the jackfruit is coated in a thick sauce. Taste for salt, and add more if needed. Allow to cool slightly, and serve with rice or roti.

Pan con tomate, the Spanish dish of grated tomato on grilled or toasted bread, is summery and extremely satisfying. Grating a tomato somehow emphasizes everything delicious about it, heightening sweetness and acidity. Paneer con tomate is built on the same principle, but swaps the bread for pieces of crisp-edged, lightly fried cheese. Here, the tomato pulp is seasoned not with olive oil, but with a glug of coconut oil infused with mustard seeds and curry leaves. If you’ve got homemade paneer, which is looser and softer, then there’s no need to fry it.

Paneer con Tomate

tomatoes

curry leaves (preferably fresh)

Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the tomatoes directly over a serving plate, pressing down with your palm so that all of the pulp goes through, and you’re left with just the thin outer skin. Get rid of the skin and season the pulp generously with the salt and pepper. 

Cut the paneer into strips about 1-inch thick, then rotate the block and cut the strips to make bite-size squares. 

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick pan over medium and add the paneer, letting it brown lightly, about 1 minute. Flip the pieces to get the other side a little brown, about 1 minute, then pile the paneer onto the tomato pulp.

In the same pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then add the mustard seeds and cumin seeds. When the mustard seeds start to pop, crumple the curry leaves and add them to the pan, shaking it gently to sauté the leaves. Tip it all directly over the paneer and serve warm, or at room temperature.

Vibrant and bursting with flavour, this curry is perfect for those cold winter nights at home.

Recipe by Shane Delia.

This recipe was brought to you by Ardmona.

Chicken, tomato and coconut milk curry

chicken Marylands

(60 milliliters) extra virgin olive oil

tbs ghee or unsalted butter

Ardmona Rich and Thick tomatoes

1L (4 cups) chicken stock

Basmati rice, to serve

Flaked almonds, to serve

curry

(15 grams) garam masala

tbs cumin seeds

tsp chilli powder

brown onions,

garlic

8cm ginger, peeled and chopped

coriander roots, washed

salt flakes

https://resources.newscdn.com.au/cs/video/vjs/stable/build/index.html?id=5348771529001-5476954010001&=domain=del

5348771529001-5476954010001

This easy chicken curry recipe with coconut imparts the flavours of Sri Lanka, making it a firm favourite once the weather turns.

Chicken curry recipe with coconut and turmeric

white onion, grated

(20 grams) ginger, grated

garlic cloves, crushed

chicken thigh fillets, chicken breasts

(60 milliliters) coconut oil

tbs turmeric

tbs cumin

tsp coriander

tsp smoked paprika ￼(pimenton)

cardamom pods

cinnamon quill

curry leaves,

coconut cream

chicken stock

tbs cashews, crushed,

Micro coriander, to serve

https://resources.newscdn.com.au/cs/video/vjs/stable/build/index.html?id=5348771529001-5977458968001&=domain=del

5348771529001-5977458968001

A lovely combination of fresh and filling, this warm rice salad will quickly become a go-to recipe in your household.

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