grilling and barbecue

Adding a packet of wood chips to the grill can take an inexpensive steak to the
next level. But there’s a fine line between perfection and going up in smoke.

Grill-Smoked Herb-Rubbed Flat-Iron Steaks

thyme

rosemary

fennel seeds

teaspoon, black peppercorns

teaspoon, red pepper flakes

tablespoon, kosher salt

(2 1/2—3 3/4 ounces), wood chips

Vegetable oil spray

, lemons, quartered lengthwise

Grind thyme, rosemary, fennel seeds, peppercorns, and pepper flakes in spice grinder or with mortar and pestle until coarsely ground. Transfer to small bowl. Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Rub steaks evenly on both sides with salt and place on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. (After 30 minutes, prepare grill.)

Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap wood chips (1 cup if using charcoal; 1 1/2 cups if using gas) in 8 by 4 1/2-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.

FOR A GAS GRILL: Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to medium.

Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle half of herb rub evenly over 1 side of steaks and press to adhere. Lightly spray herb-rubbed side of steaks with oil spray, about 3 seconds. Flip steaks and repeat process of sprinkling and pressing steaks with remaining herb rub and coating with oil spray on second side.

Place lemons and steaks on hotter side of grill, cover (position lid vent over steaks if using charcoal), and cook until lemons and steaks are well browned on both sides and meat registers 130 to 135 degrees (for medium), 4 to 6 minutes per side. (If steaks are fully charred before reaching desired temperature, move to cooler side of grill, cover, and continue to cook.) Transfer lemons and steaks to clean wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet, tent with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Slice steaks thin against grain and serve, passing lemons separately.

Just say no to soggy, bland grilled zucchini.

Brined Grilled Zucchini with Mint Salsa Verde

water

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons, kosher salt

pounds, zucchini (3 large zucchini), halved lengthwise

¼ cup, extra-virgin olive oil

tablespoons, white wine vinegar

capers,

garlic cloves, minced

Whisk water and salt in large bowl until salt is dissolved. Add zucchini to brine and weigh down with plate to keep submerged. Let sit at room temperature for at least 45 minutes or up to 1 hour. Transfer zucchini to paper towel–lined plate and pat dry. Discard brine.

For a Charcoal Grill: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts [4½ pounds]). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes. For a Gas Grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.

Clean and oil cooking grate. Place zucchini, cut side down, on grill (directly over coals if using charcoal) and cook until zucchini are well charred on bottom and flesh just begins to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip zucchini and continue to cook until skin side is charred, about 2 minutes longer. (Zucchini should be slightly soft at edges but still firm at centers.) Transfer to serving plate.

Stir together mint, parsley, oil, vinegar, capers, garlic, and pepper flakes in small bowl. Season with salt to taste. Spoon salsa verde over zucchini and serve.

Look at that photo! Cooking a whole head of cauliflower on the grill is impressive (and delicious).

Grill-Roasted Whole Cauliflower with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce

tahini

plain, Greek yogurt

lemon juice

garlic clove, minced

head, cauliflower (2 pounds)

salt

½ cup, sugar for brining

1½ teaspoons, ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon, pepper

pistachios

parsley

FOR THE TAHINI-YOGURT SAUCE: Whisk all ingredients in bowl until ­combined. Adjust consistency with extra water as needed and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

FOR THE CAULIFLOWER: Trim stem of cauliflower, keeping leaves intact, so it sits flat. Dissolve salt and sugar in 2 quarts cold water in large bowl. Holding cauliflower upside down by stem, gently dunk in brine and let sit for 5 minutes. Flip and continue to submerge for 1 minute until evenly moistened (do not pat dry). Transfer cauliflower stem down to large plate and cover with inverted large bowl. Microwave until cauliflower is trans­lucent and tender and paring knife inserted in thickest stem of florets (not into core) meets no resistance, 8 to 14 minutes.

Carefully transfer cauliflower to paper towel–lined plate and pat dry. Whisk oil, turmeric, and pepper together in small bowl, then brush cauliflower with oil mixture.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large ­chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high; cover; and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust ­primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 350 to 400 degrees; if using 3-burner grill, adjust ­primary burner and second burner.)

Place cauliflower stem side down on cooler side of grill (6 to 8 inches from heat source for gas grill). Cover and cook until cauliflower is deeply browned and leaves are charred and crisp, 35 to 55 minutes, rotating ­cauliflower halfway through cooking. Using spatula and tongs, transfer ­cauliflower to plate.

Spread two-thirds of tahini-yogurt sauce over ­serving platter. Center cauliflower stem side down on sauce and sprinkle with pistachios and parsley. Cut into wedges and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.

Don't just wing it—follow our method for perfectly tender, juicy, char-kissed smoked chicken wings.

Smoked Chicken Wings

cup, table salt, for brining

cup, sugar, for brining

pounds, chicken wings, cut at joints, wingtips discarded

teaspoons, paprika

teaspoons, chili powder

teaspoons, oregano

teaspoons, pepper

garlic powder

teaspoon, sugar

cayenne pepper

wood chips

unsalted butter

tablespoons, cider vinegar

tablespoons, ketchup

teaspoon, table salt

FOR THE WINGS: Dissolve salt and ¼ cup sugar in 2 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge wings in brine, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours. Combine paprika, chili powder, oregano, pepper, garlic powder, 1 teaspoon sugar, and cayenne in bowl. Measure out 1 tablespoon spice mixture and set aside.

FOR THE SAUCE: Melt butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add reserved 1 tablespoon spice mixture and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Carefully add vinegar (mixture will bubble up). Bring to quick simmer, then remove from heat. Whisk in ketchup and salt. Cover and set aside.

Remove wings from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle wings all over with remaining spice mixture.

Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap soaked chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, place wood chip packet on 1 side of grill and pour coals evenly over half of grill, covering wood chip packet. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.

FOR A GAS GRILL: Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner [or, if using 3-burner grill, primary burner and second burner] as needed to maintain grill temperature of 400 degrees.)

Clean and oil cooking grate. Place wings, fatty side up, on cooler side of grill, arranging drumettes closest to coals. Cover and cook until wings are darkened in color and meat registers at least 180 degrees, about 40 minutes, flipping wings halfway through cooking.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Slide half of wings to hotter side of grill and cook, uncovered, until charred in spots, 1 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer wings to platter and tent with foil. Repeat with remaining wings.

FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high and cook, uncovered, until wings are charred in spots, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer wings to platter and tent with foil.

Reheat sauce over medium heat, about 2 minutes. Toss wings and sauce together in bowl. Serve.

Each component of our quick and easy steak tacos—tender, juicy meat; corn tortillas; and scallion-jalapeño salsa—is cooked on the grill to infuse it with smoky char.

Easy Grilled Steak Tacos (Tacos al Carbón)

tablespoons, extra-virgin olive oil, divided

teaspoons, minced canned chipotle chile adobo sauce

teaspoons, kosher salt, divided

teaspoon, cumin

(1½- flank steak

jalapeño chiles

scallions

corn tortillas

tablespoons, lime juice, lime

Fresh, cilantro leaves

Mexican crema

Combine 1 tablespoon oil, chipotle, 1½ teaspoons salt, and cumin in bowl. Trim fat deposits on steak to ⅛-inch thickness. Cut steak lengthwise (with grain) into three 2- to 3-inch-wide strips. Rub chipotle mixture evenly into steak, then transfer steak to rimmed baking sheet.

For a charcoal grill: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

For a gas grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn off 1 burner (if using grill with more than 2 burners, turn off burner farthest from primary burner) and leave other burner(s) on high.

Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange steak and jalapeños on hotter side of grill. Cook (covered if using gas), flipping steak and jalapeños every 2 minutes, until meat is well browned and registers 125 to 130 degrees (for medium-rare), 7 to 12 minutes, and jalapeños are blistered and charred in spots, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer steak to clean cutting board and tent with aluminum foil. Transfer jalapeños to medium bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

Place scallions on hotter side of grill and cook until dark green parts are well charred on 1 side, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip scallions, arranging them so that dark green parts are on cooler side of grill while white and light green parts are on hotter side. Continue to cook until whites are well charred, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer to bowl with jalapeños and cover tightly with plastic. Arrange 6 tortillas on hotter side of grill and cook until lightly charred, 45 to 60 seconds per side. Wrap warmed tortillas tightly in foil. Repeat with remaining 6 tortillas.

Without peeling, stem and seed jalapeños; reserve seeds. Chop jalapeños fine and transfer to bowl. Chop scallions coarse and transfer to bowl with jalapeños. Stir in lime juice, adobo sauce, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Season with salt, extra lime juice, and reserved jalapeño seeds to taste. Slice steak thin against grain and transfer to serving platter. Serve steak in tortillas, passing salsa, lime wedges, cilantro, and crema separately.

For the most tender, succulent home version of this Southern classic, you need two unusual elements: plastic wrap and a paper sack.

Barbecued Pulled Pork on a Charcoal Grill

tablespoon, black pepper

tablespoons, chili powder

tablespoons, cumin

tablespoons, dark brown sugar

oregano

tablespoons, paprika

tablespoons, table salt

tablespoon, sugar

tablespoon, white pepper

pork

Mix all spicy chili rub ingredients in small bowl, set aside.

If using a fresh ham or picnic roast, remove skin (see illustration below). Massage dry rub into meat. Wrap tightly in double layer of plastic wrap; refrigerate for at least 3 hours. (For strong flavor, the roast can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

At least 1 hour prior to cooking, remove roast from refrigerator, unwrap, and let it come to room temperature. Soak 4 (3-inch) wood chunks in cold water to cover for 1 hour and drain. Meanwhile, light a large chimney starter filled a bit less than halfway with charcoal briquettes (about 2 1/2 quarts, or about 40 briquettes), and burn until all the charcoal is covered with a layer of fine gray ash.

Empty the coals into the grill; build a modified two-level fire by spreading the coals onto one side of the grill, piling them up in a mound 2 or 3 briquettes high, leaving the other half with no coals. Open the bottom vents completely. Place the soaked wood chunks on the coals. Position the cooking grate over the coals, cover the grill, and heat until hot, about 5 minutes (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the coals for 2 seconds). Use a grill brush to scrape the cooking grate clean.

Set unwrapped roast in disposable pan (see illustration below) and place it on grate opposite the fire, (see illustrations below). Open grill lid vents three-quarters of the way and cover, turning lid so that vents are opposite chunks to draw smoke through the grill. Cook, adding about 8 briquettes every hour or so to maintain an average temperature of 275 degrees, for 3 hours.

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place roast in pan and wrap with heavy-duty foil to cover completely. Place pan in oven and cook until meat is fork-tender, about 2 hours.

Slide the foil-wrapped pan with the roast into a brown paper bag. Crimp top shut; rest roast 1 hour. Transfer roast to cutting board and unwrap. When cool enough to handle, "pull" pork by separating roast into muscle sections (see illustration, below), removing fat, if desired, and tearing meat into thin shreds with fingers. Place shredded meat in large bowl ; toss with 1 cup barbecue sauce, adding more to taste. Serve with remaining sauce passed separately.

The challenge: a whole, hulking 12-pound brisket cooked to juicy tenderness completely on a backyard charcoal grill. Could it be done?

Texas Barbecue Brisket

(10- beef

¼ cup, kosher salt

¼ cup, pepper

(3-inch), wood chunks

With brisket positioned point side up, use sharp knife to trim fat cap to ½- to ¼-inch thickness. Remove excess fat from deep pocket where flat and point are attached. Trim and discard short edge of flat if less than 1 inch thick. Flip brisket and remove any large deposits of fat from underside.

Combine salt and pepper in bowl. Place brisket on rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle all over with salt mixture. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.

Open bottom vent completely. Set up charcoal snake: Arrange 58 briquettes, 2 briquettes wide, around perimeter of grill, overlapping slightly so briquettes are touching, leaving 8-inch gap between ends of snake. Place second layer of 58 briquettes, also 2 briquettes wide, on top of first. (Completed snake should be 2 briquettes wide by 2 briquettes high.)

Starting 4 inches from 1 end of snake, evenly space wood chunks on top of snake. Place disposable pan in center of grill. Fill disposable pan with 6 cups water. Light chimney starter filled with 10 briquettes (pile briquettes on 1 side of chimney). When coals are partially covered with ash, pour over 1 end of snake. (Make sure lit coals touch only 1 end of snake.)

Set cooking grate in place. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place brisket, fat side down, directly over water pan, with point end facing gap in snake. Insert temperature probe into side of upper third of point. Cover grill, open lid vent completely, and position lid vent over gap in snake. Cook, undisturbed and without lifting lid, until meat registers 170 degrees, 4 to 5 hours.

Place 2 large sheets of aluminum foil on rimmed baking sheet. Remove temperature probe from brisket. Using oven mitts, lift brisket and transfer to center of foil, fat side down. Wrap brisket tightly with first layer of foil, minimizing air pockets between foil and brisket. Rotate brisket 90 degrees and wrap with second layer of foil. (Use additional foil, if necessary, to completely wrap brisket.) Make small mark on foil with marker to keep track of fat/point side. Foil wrap should be airtight.

Remove cooking grate. Starting at still-unlit end of snake, pour 3 quarts unlit briquettes about halfway around perimeter of grill over gap and spent coals. Replace cooking grate. Return foil-wrapped brisket to grill over water pan, fat side down, with point end facing where gap in snake used to be. Reinsert temperature probe into point. Cover grill and continue to cook until meat registers 205 degrees, 1 to 2 hours longer.

Remove temperature probe. Transfer foil-wrapped brisket to cooler, fat side up. Close cooler and let rest for at least 2 hours or up to 3 hours. Transfer brisket to carving board, unwrap, and position fat side up. Slice flat against grain ¼ inch thick, stopping once you reach base of point. Rotate point 90 degrees and slice point against grain (perpendicular to first cut) 3/8 inch thick. Serve.

For juicy and flavorful burgers, either grind your own turkey in the food processor or add ricotta cheese to lean, commercially ground turkey.

Miso Turkey Burgers

turkey thigh,

teaspoon, black pepper

teaspoons, pure soybean miso thinned

tablespoon, vegetable oil or canola oil

Working in 3 batches, place semifrozen turkey chunks in workbowl of food processor fitted with steel blade; pulse until largest pieces are no bigger than 1/8-inch, 12 to 14 one-second pulses.

Transfer ground meat to medium bowl. Stir in salt, pepper, and thinned miso until blended, and divide meat into 4 portions. Lightly toss one portion from hand to hand to form a ball, then lightly flatten ball with fingertips into 1-inch-thick patty. Repeat with remaining portions.

TO COOK INDOORS: Heat a large, heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron or stainless steel with an aluminum core) over medium heat until very hot, 4 to 5 minutes. Swirl oil in pan to coat bottom, then add burgers. Cook over medium heat without moving burgers until bottom side of each is dark brown and crusted, about 5 minutes. Turn burgers over; continue to cook until bottom side is light brown but not yet crusted, 4 to 5 minutes longer. Reduce heat to low, position cover slightly ajar on pan to allow steam to escape, and continue to cook 5 to 6 minutes longer or until center is completely opaque yet still juicy, or an instant-read thermometer inserted from the side of the burger into the center registers 160 degrees. Remove from pan and serve immediately.

TO GRILL: Alternatively, grill burgers over medium-low fire (you can hold your hand about 5 inches above grill surface for 5 seconds) until dark spotty brown on bottom side, 7 to 9 minutes. Turn burgers over; continue grilling 7 to 9 minutes longer or until bottom side is dark spotty brown and center is completely cooked or instant-read thermometer registers 160 degrees. Remove from grill and serve immediately.

Barbecuing a beef roast until it's smoky and tender sounds like a great idea. But dry, bland meat isn't much reward for a day's worth of cooking. We find a better-and faster-way.

Shredded Barbecued Beef

tablespoon, salt

tablespoon, pepper

beef chuck-eye roast (5 to 6 pounds)

wood

teaspoon, chili powder

ketchup

cup, brewed coffee

cup, cider vinegar

brown sugar

Worcestershire sauce

teaspoon, pepper

For the spice rub and beef: Combine salt, pepper, and cayenne in small bowl. Following photo 1, quarter roast and remove excess fat and gristle. Rub meat all over with salt mixture and transfer to large disposable aluminum roasting pan. (Salt-rubbed meat can be wrapped tightly in plastic and refrigerated for 24 hours.)

Seal soaked wood chips in foil packet and cut vent holes in top. Open bottom vent on grill. Light 50 coals; when covered with fine gray ash, pour in pile on one side of grill. Arrange foil packet directly on coals. Set cooking grate in place and heat, covered, with lid vent open halfway, until wood chips begin to smoke heavily, about 5 minutes. (For gas grill, place foil packet directly on primary burner. Heat all burners on high, covered, until wood chips begin to smoke heavily, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and shut other burner[s] off.) Arrange roasting pan with beef on cooler side of grill and barbecue, covered, until meat is deep red and smoky, about 2 hours.

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Following photo 3, flip meat over, cover pan tightly with foil, and bake until fork inserted into meat can be removed with no resistance, 2 to 3 hours. Transfer meat to large bowl, tent with foil, and let rest 30 minutes. While meat rests, skim fat from accumulated juices in pan; reserve 2 tablespoons fat. Strain defatted juices; reserve 1/2 cup juice.

For the barbecue sauce and to finish: Combine onion and reserved fat in saucepan and cook over medium heat until onion has softened, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and chili powder and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in remaining ingredients and reserved meat juices and simmer until thickened, about 15 minutes. Using 2 forks, pull meat into shreds, discarding any excess fat or gristle. Toss meat with 1/2 cup barbecue sauce. Serve, passing remaining sauce at table.

Wanted: a foolproof method for gigantic beef ribs.

Texas-Style Smoked Beef Ribs

tablespoons, kosher salt

tablespoons, pepper

Combine salt and pepper in bowl, then sprinkle ribs all over with salt-pepper mixture.

Open bottom vent completely. Set up charcoal snake: Arrange 60 briquettes, 2 briquettes wide, around perimeter of grill, overlapping slightly so briquettes are touching, leaving 8-inch gap between ends of snake. Place second layer of 60 briquettes, also 2 briquettes wide, on top of first. (Completed snake should be 2 briquettes wide by 2 briquettes high.)

Starting 4 inches from 1 end of snake, evenly space wood chunks on top of snake. Place disposable pan in center of grill so short end of pan faces gap in snake. Fill disposable pan with 4 cups water. Light chimney starter filled with 15 briquettes (pile briquettes on 1 side of chimney to make them easier to ignite). When coals are partially covered with ash, pour over 1 end of snake. (Make sure lit coals touch only 1 end of snake.)

Set cooking grate in place. Clean and oil cooking grate. Position ribs next to each other on cooking grate, bone side down, crosswise over disposable pan and gap in snake (they will be off-center; this is OK). Cover grill, position lid vent over gap in snake, and open lid vent completely. Cook undisturbed until rack of ribs overhanging gap in snake registers 210 degrees in meatiest portion, 5½ to 6¼ hours.

Transfer ribs to carving board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 30 minutes. Cut ribs between bones and serve.

Preground chuck patties may be easy to throw on the grill, but if you want ultrabeefy, tender, juicy burgers, start with steak tips—and open the freezer.

Tender, Juicy Grilled Burgers

pounds, sirloin steak tips,

tablespoons, unsalted butter,

salt and pepper

hamburger buns

Place beef chunks and butter on large plate in single layer. Freeze until meat is very firm and starting to harden around edges but still pliable, about 35 minutes.

Place one-quarter of meat and one-quarter of butter cubes in food processor and pulse until finely ground into pieces size of rice grains (about 1/32 inch), 15 to 20 pulses, stopping and redistributing meat
around bowl as necessary to ensure beef is evenly ground. Transfer meat to baking sheet. Repeat grinding with remaining 3 batches of meat and butter. Spread mixture over sheet and inspect carefully, discarding any long strands of gristle or large chunks of hard meat, fat, or butter.

Sprinkle 1 teaspoon pepper and 3/4 teaspoon salt over meat and gently toss with fork to combine. Divide meat into
4 balls. Toss each between hands until uniformly but lightly packed. Gently flatten into patties 3/4 inch thick and about 4 1/2 inches in diameter. Using thumb, make 1-inch-wide by 1/4-inch-deep depression in center of each patty. Transfer patties to platter and freeze for 30 to 45 minutes.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Using skewer, poke 12 holes in bottom of disposable pan. Open bottom vent completely and place disposable pan in center of grill. Light large chimney starter filled two-thirds with charcoal briquettes (4 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into disposable pan. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.

Clean and oil cooking grate. Season 1 side of patties liberally with salt and pepper. Using spatula, flip patties and season other side. Grill patties (directly over coals if using charcoal), without moving them, until browned and meat easily releases from grill, 4 to 7 minutes. Flip burgers and continue to grill until browned on second side and meat registers 125 degrees for medium-rare or 130 degrees for medium, 4 to 7 minutes longer.

Transfer burgers to plate and let rest for 5 minutes. While burgers rest, lightly toast buns on grill, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer burgers to buns and serve.

The secret to flavorful, crisp (but not charred) skin is to hold back on the sugar until the last 5 minutes of cooking.

Grilled Chicken Teriyaki

soy sauce

mirin

tablespoon, grated fresh ginger

cloves, garlic, minced

chicken

tablespoons, sugar

cornstarch

Combine soy sauce, water, mirin, ginger, and garlic in saucepan. Toss chicken with 1/2 cup soy sauce mixture in large bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day. Meanwhile, whisk sugar and cornstarch into remaining soy sauce mixture in saucepan. Simmer over medium-high heat until thickened and reduced to 3/4 cup, about 5 minutes. (Glaze can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)

Heat all burners on high for 15 minutes, then turn all burners to medium-low. (For charcoal grill, light 50 coals; when covered with fine gray ash, spread in even layer. Set cooking grate in place and heat, covered, for 5 minutes.) Scrape and oil cooking grate. Grill chicken skin-side up, covered, until well browned on bottom and internal temperature of meat registers 120 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes. Flip chicken skin-side down and grill, covered, until skin is rendered and deep brown and meat registers 160 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes. Brush chicken with 1/4 cup glaze and grill, covered, until glaze is caramelized, about 5 minutes.

Transfer chicken to serving platter and brush with 1/4 cup glaze. Let rest 10 minutes. Serve, passing remaining glaze at table.

After weeks of making burnt, puffy pies, we learned that the keys to crisp-tender, lightly charred pizza from the grill are quite simple: a strategic setup and a glug of oil. The dough for our grilled pizza is easy to make in the food processor and proofs for at least 24 hours in the refrigerator, where it develops complex flavor. To ensure that it cooked up thin, we used a tiny amount of yeast to reduce air bubbles and a relatively high percentage of water, which made a relatively slack dough that easily stretched. Stretching the dough on a generously oiled baking sheet prevented it from sticking to our hands or the grill and also helped the exterior fry and crisp. To ensure that the toppings cooked quickly on a grill, we preheated the sauce and used a combination of fast-melting fresh mozzarella and finely grated Parmesan; we also sprinkled the Parmesan evenly over the dough to create a flavorful barrier against moisture before dolloping (rather than slathering) on the sauce and scattering chunks of cheese, all of which helped maintain the dough’s crisp texture. To prevent a hot spot at the center that would burn the crust, we placed the coals only around the perimeter of the grill rather than spreading them in an even layer.

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