Step 1

FOR THE WINGS: Dissolve salt and ¼ cup sugar in 2 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge wings in brine, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours. Combine paprika, chili powder, oregano, pepper, garlic powder, 1 teaspoon sugar, and cayenne in bowl. Measure out 1 tablespoon spice mixture and set aside.

Step 2

FOR THE SAUCE: Melt butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add reserved 1 tablespoon spice mixture and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Carefully add vinegar (mixture will bubble up). Bring to quick simmer, then remove from heat. Whisk in ketchup and salt. Cover and set aside.

Step 3

Remove wings from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle wings all over with remaining spice mixture.

Step 4

Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap soaked chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.

Step 5

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, place wood chip packet on 1 side of grill and pour coals evenly over half of grill, covering wood chip packet. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.

Step 6

FOR A GAS GRILL: Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner [or, if using 3-burner grill, primary burner and second burner] as needed to maintain grill temperature of 400 degrees.)

Step 7

Clean and oil cooking grate. Place wings, fatty side up, on cooler side of grill, arranging drumettes closest to coals. Cover and cook until wings are darkened in color and meat registers at least 180 degrees, about 40 minutes, flipping wings halfway through cooking.

Step 8

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Slide half of wings to hotter side of grill and cook, uncovered, until charred in spots, 1 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer wings to platter and tent with foil. Repeat with remaining wings.

Step 9

FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high and cook, uncovered, until wings are charred in spots, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer wings to platter and tent with foil.

Step 10

Reheat sauce over medium heat, about 2 minutes. Toss wings and sauce together in bowl. Serve.