kosher salt

This chungdi malai recipe is from Maneet Chauhan’s new cookbook ‘Chaat.’ “Coconut milk and shrimp are natural dancing partners...laced with a tapestry of spices.”

Chungdi Malai (Coconut Shrimp Curry)

lb. medium shrimp (about 24), peeled, deveined

bay leaves

cinnamon sticks,

cloves

turmeric

tsp. garam masala

cardamom

Kosher salt

mustard oil*

yellow onion, finely chopped

Tbsp. finely chopped ginger

cumin

Kashmiri

sugar

coconut milk

Tbsp. plain whole-milk yogurt

Tbsp. ghee

cilantro, cooked basmati rice, and lime wedges (for serving)

“Chungdi malai is one of the most coveted dishes of Puri (a city in eastern India),” chef Maneet Chauhan writes in her new cookbook Chaat. “It showcases the elegant flavors that are the trademark of the regional Oriya cuisine. Coconut milk and shrimp are natural dancing partners, rounded out with the earthy note of ghee laced with a tapestry of spices. The shrimp should be marinated for about 1 hour to infuse them with flavor, but otherwise this dish comes together quickly, making it an ideal family meal on a weekday that calls for something special.
It was in Puri where I tried my first shrimp, which my father had bought from one of the train vendors. They were covered in a fiery red chile sauce that I didn’t realize also contained large chunks of pineapple, which when covered in sauce closely resembled the shape and size of the shrimp. I took a bite of what I thought was shrimp but was actually pineapple and exclaimed to my dad, ‘Shrimp tastes just like pineapple!’ The incident still makes him laugh, and whenever he visits one of my restaurants in Nashville, I inevitably hear him tell this story at least once to a tableful of customers. Pineapple is not a traditional ingredient in chungdi malai, but sometimes I add it, especially when preparing it for my father, because it always gets a laugh out of him. If you’d like to include pineapple, add 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh or canned pineapple when you add the coconut milk.”
Reprinted with permission from Chaat by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy copyright © 2020. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC.

Bon Appétit

Toss shrimp, bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, garam masala, and cardamom in a large bowl until shrimp are well coated; season with salt. Cover bowl with a damp cloth and chill 1 hour. Remove and discard bay leaves, cinnamon, and cloves.

Heat oil in a large high-sided skillet over medium-high. Add onion, ginger, cumin, red pepper powder, and sugar and cook, stirring, until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add coconut milk and yogurt and whisk until smooth, then add shrimp and ghee and simmer, turning shrimp halfway through, until shrimp are cooked through, 7–8 minutes. Taste and season with salt.

Top with cilantro and serve with rice and lime wedges.

*Most mustard oils are not FDA-approved as edible in the United States due to their high erucic acid content. If you are concerned, look for Yandilla, an FDA-approved brand, online, or use olive oil instead.

This is the cake you bake on the weekend and then eat a slice of every evening (or morning) throughout the week. It’s called meal prep.

Apple Cider Doughnut Loaf Cake

unsalted butter, divided,

apple cider

sour cream

vanilla extract

1¼ cups plus 2 Tbsp. (172 g) all-purpose flour

Tbsp. (15 g) cornstarch

baking powder

baking soda

Diamond

eggs, room temperature

(200 g) sugar, divided

This cake is ideal for baking on the weekend and then eating a slice every evening (or morning) throughout the week. The recipe is flexible—you can replace up to ½ cup (63 grams) all-purpose flour with whole wheat, use 2 Tbsp. flour instead of cornstarch, swap buttermilk for the sour cream, or use any neutral oil in place of the butter. Oh, and thanks to the reduced cider that’s incorporated into the batter and soaked into the warm cake, it actually tastes just like a farmstand cider doughnut.

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 325°. Lightly butter an 8½x4½" or 9x5" loaf pan. Line with parchment paper, leaving overhang on both long sides. Bring cider to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until cider is reduced to ¾ cup, 8–10 minutes. Pour ¼ cup reduced cider into a small measuring glass or bowl and set aside. Transfer remaining reduced cider to a small bowl and let cool 5 minutes. Stir in sour cream and vanilla and set aside.

Melt 8 Tbsp. butter in same saucepan (no need to clean) over low heat. Let cool slightly. Whisk flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, ½ tsp. cinnamon, and ¼ tsp. nutmeg in a medium bowl to combine.

Vigorously whisk eggs and ¾ cup (150 g) sugar in a large bowl until pale, voluminous, and frothy, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add melted butter in a steady stream; continue to whisk until fully combined and emulsified (no spots of fat should remain). Reserve saucepan.

Whisk dry ingredients into egg mixture in 3 additions, alternating with reserved sour cream mixture in 2 additions; whisk just until no lumps remain. Batter will be thin.

Scrape into pan and set on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake cake, rotating halfway through, until deep golden brown and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 60–80 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and poke top of cake all over with a toothpick. Spoon 3 Tbsp. reserved reduced cider over; let cool 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix a big pinch of salt, remaining ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, ½ tsp. cinnamon, and ¼ tsp. nutmeg in a small bowl. Melt remaining 1 Tbsp. butter in reserved saucepan and mix into remaining 1 Tbsp. reduced cider.

Using parchment paper, lift cake onto rack and set rack inside rimmed baking sheet. Peel away parchment from sides. Brush warm butter mixture over top and sides of cake. Sprinkle generously with sugar mixture to coat every surface (use parchment to help rotate cake and collect any excess sugar). Remove parchment and let cool completely before slicing.

Do ahead: Cake can be made 4 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

The secret to the fudgiest, most chocolaty brownies is cocoa powder—not melted chocolate. We borrowed chocolate expert Alice Medrich’s technique, then added a cream cheese topping for tangy balance. Don’t overthink your camo design; the brownies will look even better when sliced.

Camouflage Chocolate Fudge Brownies

Nonstick cooking oil spray

cream cheese (not low-fat)

eggs,

¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided

unsalted butter (142 grams)

instant espresso powder (optional)

½ cup (63 g) all-purpose flour

To develop the fifth recipe in the Basically Guide to Better Baking, we went back and forth for weeks debating the merits of a chewy brownie versus a fudgy one (no, we did not entertain "cakey" as an option). This is where we landed. It's pretty dang fudgy, thanks to cocoa powder (we worked off Alice Medrich's famous recipe), but a tangy layer of cream cheese offers sweet relief from the richness—and produces a very ‘70s-chic pattern. Make sure you're using large (not extra-large or jumbo eggs) so that the cream cheese batters don't turn out too thin. And don’t stress about your camo design: It’s meant to be random and the brownies will look even better after you slice them. Questions as you bake? Head to our forum for answers!

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 325°. Lightly coat a 9x9" baking pan, preferably metal, with nonstick cooking oil spray or room-temperature unsalted butter. Line with parchment paper, leaving a handle on all sides. (If you have a precut sheet of parchment, simply slice it in half crosswise, then overlap the halves to line the pan.) Lightly coat parchment with nonstick spray.

Assemble your makeshift double boiler (this is a method for gently cooking sensitive ingredients). Gather a medium saucepan and 2 medium heatproof bowls that can sit over the saucepan without dipping too far into it. Pour water into saucepan to come 1" up the sides (there should be a gap between the water and bowl so check it before the water gets hot!) and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cut 8 oz. cream cheese (not low-fat) into 1" pieces and place in one of the medium bowls; set over saucepan. Heat cream cheese, stirring occasionally, until very soft, about 5 minutes. You want it to be soft enough that you can easily mix it with a heatproof rubber spatula or wooden spoon.

Remove bowl from heat (leave water simmering). Mix cream cheese until smooth. Add 1 chilled large egg, ⅓ cup (66 g) sugar, ½ tsp. vanilla extract, and ¼ tsp. kosher salt and whisk until very smooth. Transfer about half of cream cheese mixture to a small bowl (it’s fine to eyeball it) and whisk in 1½ tsp. unsweetened cocoa powder.  (Both Dutch-process and natural cocoa powder will work in this recipe, but the former will provide a deeper color and a smoother, richer flavor.) Set both bowls of cream cheese mixture aside.

Cut 10 Tbsp. unsalted butter (142 grams) into 1" pieces. Place in the remaining medium heatproof bowl. Add 1 tsp. instant espresso powder (if using) and remaining 1 cup (200 g) sugar, ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. cocoa powder (80 g—break up big lumps before measuring as they will throw off your weight and you want to be as precise as possible here), and ½ tsp. kosher salt.

Place bowl over saucepan of still simmering water and cook, stirring occasionally once the butter starts to melt, until mixture is homogeneous and too hot to leave your finger in it, 7–9 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes. Don't panic if your batter looks stiff or otherwise wrong at this point—once you do the next step, it'll return to a glossy, beautiful mixture.

Add remaining 2 chilled large eggs and remaining ½ tsp. vanilla extract to butter mixture one at a time, whisking vigorously after each addition until smooth and glossy (the mixture will look curdled and broken until you add the second egg). Add ½ cup (63 g) all-purpose flour and mix with spatula or spoon until no longer visible, then vigorously mix another 30 strokes. Consider this recipe your arm workout! Why are the eggs chilled? Because it helps the batter to emulsify, ensuring the fat doesn't separate.

Scoop out ½ cup brownie batter and set aside (place near a warm spot, like the oven, to keep it loose). Scrape remaining batter into prepared pan and spread into an even layer. Working quickly, spoon alternating dollops of cocoa–cream cheese mixture and cream cheese mixture over batter. Dollop reserved brownie batter on top (it will be quite thick). Don’t worry if your design looks random and spotted.

Bake brownies until center is set and no longer looks wet (the chocolate blobs will change from glossy and shiny to matte), 22–25 minutes. (If you're using a glass pan, this might take significantly longer, so use a toothpick to check that only a few moist crumbs are pulled out.) Brownies may have puffed—they'll deflate as the cool. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Using parchment paper overhang, lift brownies out of pan and transfer to a cutting board. Remove parchment paper and cut brownies into sixteen 2¼" squares, wiping knife clean with a damp rag between slices. To easily cut even squares, cut the brownies into four quadrants, then slice each quadrant in four.

Rick Martinez’s shrimp gorditas are inspired by his months of quarantine in Mazatlán, Mexico. 

Gorditas con Camarones

instant corn masa flour (such as Maseca)

Tbsp. lard, melted, or vegetable oil, divided

guajillo

morita chiles, stems removed, or 2 canned chipotle chiles

coriander

1½ lb. medium shrimp, peeled, deveined

garlic cloves, thinly sliced

thyme

apple cider vinegar

agave syrup or honey

Tbsp. unsalted butter,

Sliced onion, sliced avocado, cilantro leaves

Rick Martinez spent his quarantine in Mazatlán, Mexico, while researching his upcoming cookbook on regional Mexican food. The town is in the state of Sinaloa, where gorditas are thicker corn patties with a ridge around the edges to hold all the toppings. “My recipe for a gordita that is split open and filled is more common outside of the area,” says Rick, “but the filling, made with shrimp, reflects the amazing seafood that is abundant in this coastal city.”

Stir masa, 1 Tbsp. lard, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton salt, and 1 cup water in a medium bowl until a soft and slightly sticky dough forms. If dry, mix in another 1 Tbsp. water. Cover and let sit at least 30 minutes and up to 3 hours.

Meanwhile, bring guajillo chiles, morita chiles, coriander, and 1½ cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Cover, remove from heat, and let sit, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes to allow chiles to soften. Transfer to a blender and purée until smooth; set aside.

Place rack in lowest position in oven; preheat to 500°. Brush a rimmed baking sheet with 2 Tbsp. lard. Divide dough into 4 pieces and form into balls. Set on work surface and cover with a damp kitchen towel. Place 1 ball between 2 sheets of parchment or wax paper. Using a small skillet or saucepan, gently press ball into a 5"-diameter disk. Carefully peel away parchment; place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining balls.

Bake gorditas until outer edges are lightly golden, 10–12 minutes. Turn over and bake until golden brown and crisp, 10–12 minutes. Transfer to plates and let cool 10 minutes. Insert a paring knife into side of gordita and, using a slow sawing motion, cut open along one side (keep other side intact).

Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. lard in a large skillet over high. Cook shrimp until lightly browned and just cooked through, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a medium bowl. Reduce heat to medium and cook garlic in same skillet, tossing often, until beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Add thyme sprigs, vinegar, agave, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, and reserved chile purée. Cook, stirring occasionally, until brick red and the consistency of a thick sauce, 6–8 minutes. Add shrimp and any juices and cook 1 minute. Remove from heat; add butter and stir constantly until melted and sauce is glossy. Season with more salt if needed. Remove and discard thyme.

Fill gorditas with shrimp mixture, onion, avocado, and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

These melt-in-your-mouth dinner rolls from Claire Saffitz are even more tender and pillowy than the classic Parker House rolls.

Pull-Apart Sour Cream and Chive Rolls

½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. whole milk

(667 g) bread flour, divided, plus more

active dry yeast

sour cream, room temperature

(50 g) sugar

Diamond Crystal or 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt

eggs

Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, divided, room temperature

chives

Flaky sea salt

black pepper

These melt-in-your-mouth dinner rolls, from Claire Saffitz’s cookbook Dessert Person, are even more tender and pillowy than the classic Parker House rolls that inspired this recipe. That’s thanks to the addition of tangzhong, a white roux made from flour and milk cooked to a stiff paste, often used to make Japanese milk bread. The cooked starches in the tangzhong help the dough retain moisture and keeps the rolls super soft and light. The slight onion flavor of chives and tang of sour cream give them oomph. They’re as equally excellent at mopping up gravy as they are at holding the contents of a leftover turkey sandwich. “If food could give you a hug, these rolls definitely would,” says Claire.

Whisk ½ cup milk, ⅓ cup flour (42 g), and ½ cup water in a small saucepan until smooth. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until a very stiff paste forms (it should resemble mashed potatoes), about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; scrape tangzhong into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook.

Gently warm remaining 2 Tbsp. milk in same saucepan over low heat until lukewarm. Remove from heat, add yeast, and whisk until dissolved. Let sit until mixture is foamy, about 5 minutes.

Add sour cream, sugar, kosher salt, 2 eggs, 4 Tbsp. butter, and remaining 5 cups bread flour (625 g) to tangzhong. Scrape in yeast mixture and mix on low speed until a shaggy dough forms. Increase speed to medium and mix, scraping down sides of bowl occasionally and adding more flour by the tablespoonful if sticky, until dough is smooth and supple, 8–10 minutes.

Scrape dough onto a work surface and form into a smooth ball; dust lightly with flour. Place inside a clean large bowl and cover with plastic wrap or a silicone lid. Let sit in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, 1–1½ hours.

Meanwhile, coat a 13x9" pan, preferably metal, with 2 Tbsp. butter (it will be a generous layer, which is what you want). Uncover dough and punch down lightly to expel some of the gas.

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and stretch into a square.

Roll out, dusting with more flour as needed to prevent sticking, to a 12" square and sprinkle chives evenly over dough.

Starting at one end, loosely roll up dough. Flatten with the heel of your hands into a long rectangle. Roll out dough again, dusting with more flour as needed, into a 16x6" rectangle.

Using a wheel cutter or bench scraper, cut dough into twenty-four 2"-squarish pieces (an 8x3 grid).

Working with 1 piece of dough, gather all the corners and pinch together to form a teardrop shape. Place seam side down on work surface. Cup your hand over dough and drag across surface, moving your hand in a rapid circular motion, to form dough into a tight ball. Do not add flour, as you want friction between the dough and the surface. Place ball in prepared pan and repeat with remaining pieces of dough, spacing to make a 6x4 grid. Cover pan with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm, draft-free spot until rolls are nearly doubled in size, 45–60 minutes.

Meanwhile, place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375°.

Using a fork, whisk remaining egg in a small bowl until no streaks remain. Uncover pan and gently brush tops of rolls with egg, then sprinkle with sea salt and pepper. Bake rolls until tops are deep golden brown, 25–30 minutes.

Remove pan from oven and immediately brush tops with remaining 2 Tbsp. butter. Let cool in pan 5 minutes. Slide a knife or an offset spatula around sides of pan to loosen rolls, then slide a metal spatula underneath to loosen the bottom. Slide entire grid of rolls out and onto a wire rack. Serve warm or let cool.

Do ahead: Rolls can be formed and arranged in pan 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Let rise at room temperature before baking (this can take up to 3 hours). Rolls can be baked 3 days ahead. Let cool; store airtight at room temperature.

The goal here was to achieve a tonkotsu-like broth without using any meat. Tomato paste, dried shiitake mushrooms, kombu, and a little bit of butter help to get you that rich umami-like effect.

Vegetarian Ramen

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

Tbsp. black or white sesame seeds

Tbsp. gochugaru (coarse Korean red pepper powder)

scallions

2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced

tomato paste

shiitake mushrooms

kombu

Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce

baby bok choy (about 12 oz. total), quartered lengthwise

5-oz. packages fresh ramen noodles

noodles

Cook garlic and ¼ cup oil in a medium pot over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic is beginning to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in sesame seeds and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a small bowl and stir in gochugaru; season with salt. Set garlic oil aside. Wipe out pot and set aside.

Trim dark green parts from scallions and thinly slice; set aside for serving. Coarsely chop white and pale green parts. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp oil in reserved pot over medium-high. Cook chopped scallions and ginger, stirring often, until scallions are charred in spots, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to stick to the bottom of pot and darkens slightly, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and kombu, then stir in 5 cups cold water. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat and let sit until mushrooms soften, about 10 minutes. Remove and discard kombu.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer solids to a blender. Add a ladleful or 2 of broth to blender and purée until smooth. Stir purée back into broth in pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add butter a piece at a time, whisking to combine after each addition before adding more. Stir in soy sauce; season with salt. Reduce heat to low and keep warm until ready to serve.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add bok choy and cook until bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bok choy to a plate. Return water to a boil and cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and divide among bowls.

To serve, ladle broth over noodles, then top with bok choy and reserved garlic oil. Top with eggs, nori, and cilantro if desired.

Trinidadian chickpeas and potato suspended in a delicious mash. 

Aloo and Chana

vegetable oil

Tbsp. Chief Brand curry powder

onion,

Scotch bonnet

Green Seasoning, divided

potatoes

chickpeas, rinsed, or 1½ cups cooked chickpeas

Tbsp. store-bought or homemade mango kuchela (optional)

Lime juice (for serving)

This comforting, spiced mash of fork-tender potatoes and creamy chickpeas is just one of many dishes that show up in Cane chef Peter Prime’s take on a Trinidadian lime—a hangout, or in this case, a full-on roti lime feast. As you cook the potatoes, add just enough water so they can steam and turn tender without sticking to the pot. You want the final texture to have chickpeas and broken chunks of potato suspended in a delicious mash. Serve it alongside Fruit Chow, Tomato Choka, Curry Goat, and the main event: the flaky Buss Up Shut Paratha Roti.

Heat oil in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Add curry powder and cumin; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and slightly darkened in color, about 30 seconds.

Add onion, chopped chile, ⅓ cup Green Seasoning, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt to pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add potatoes and remaining whole chile and reduce heat to medium-low. Cover pot; cook, stirring occasionally and adding a splash or so of water if mixture looks dry or is sticking to bottom of pot, until potatoes are fork-tender, 30–35 minutes.

Add chickpeas, mango kuchela (if using), and remaining ⅓ cup Green Seasoning to pot. Cover again and cook, stirring occasionally and adding a splash or so of water if mixture looks dry or is sticking to bottom of pot, until some of the potatoes fall apart and become creamy, 25–30 minutes. Mix in lime juice; taste and season with more salt.

Use the silky shreds of roti to scoop up all the various curries, chows, and chokas that make up this roti lime feast.

This is a “necessity is the mother of invention” kind of recipe, borne from isolation, scant ingredients, an oversupply of kimchi, and sheer hunger. Yet this unconventional one-pot approach also happens to be one of the simplest ways to prepare mac and cheese. 

One-Pot Kimchi and Squash Mac and Cheese

butternut squash (about 1¼ lb.)

onion

garlic

Napa cabbage kimchi

Tbsp. olive oil

lb. elbow macaroni, shells, cavatappi, rigatoni, or other short pasta

vegetable broth

lb. sharp cheddar

“This is a ‘necessity is the mother of invention’ kind of recipe, borne from isolation, scant ingredients, an oversupply of kimchi, and sheer hunger,” writers recipe developer and cookbook author Hetty McKinnon. “Yet this unconventional one-pot approach also happens to be one of the simplest ways to prepare mac and cheese. Starchy pasta cooking water mingles with melted cheese to create a creamy, gooey sauce that still feels light. Kimchi and sharp cheese are a natural pairing (have you tried adding kimchi to your grilled cheese?) and combine harmoniously with butternut squash to deliver that irresistible triumvirate of flavors: spicy, savory, and sweet. You could use sweet potato instead of squash, or even add a bunch of spinach or kale leaves to bring some greenery to the dish. Keep this dish vegetarian by using a vegan kimchi, but if you don’t have dietary requirements, any type is fine.”

Peel ½ small butternut squash (about 1¼ lb.) and cut flesh into ½" cubes. Peel and finely chop 1 onion. Using the flat side of your chef’s knife, crush 1 garlic clove, then peel and finely chop. Coarsely chop 1 cup kimchi (some kimchi juice is okay; no need to drain).

Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until softened slightly, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and kimchi and cook until kimchi is starting to brown and stick to bottom of pot, about 5 minutes.

Add squash to pot and reduce heat to medium. Cover and cook, stirring halfway through, until squash is tender (a paring knife should pierce flesh easily), 6–8 minutes.

Remove lid and stir in 1 lb. elbow macaroni, shells, cavatappi, rigatoni, or other short pasta, along with 4 cups vegetable stock or water. If using water, add 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt (if you broth isn't very flavorful, you may want to add a bit of salt too; start with 1/2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1/4 tsp. Morton kosher salt). Cover and bring to a simmer; cook until pasta is al dente and most of stock is absorbed (you want some starchy liquid left in pan), 6–8 minutes.

Meanwhile, grate 1 lb. sharp cheddar on the large holes of a box grater. Trim and finely slice 4 scallions.

Reduce heat to low and add cheese to pot; stir until cheese is melted and gooey, about 2 minutes. Season mac and cheese with a few grinds of freshly ground black pepper and scatter scallions over.

Crisp, peppery radishes take center stage in this fresh limey Salvadoran salsa.

Hanger Steak With Chimol

Vegetable oil (for grill)

limes

red onion, thinly sliced

serrano chiles, thinly sliced, seeds removed if desired

garlic clove, finely grated

torn cilantro leaves

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

extra-virgin olive oil

1¼-lb. hanger steak,

Worcestershire sauce and warmed tortillas (for serving)

“If you’re eating at Mercado Central in El Salvador, you’ll likely get your steak with a side of chimol,” says chef Anthony Salguero of Popoca in Oakland. “Chimol is basically a radish pico de gallo. The combination of radish and chile delivers two kinds of heat: The radish gives that peppery, nose-clearing spice while the chile gets your tongue tingling. Crunchy, spicy, and acidic, it’s exactly what you want with steak.” And you’ll also want Worcestershire sauce. “In El Salvador, Worcestershire sauce—or salsa inglesa as it’s called there—is everywhere,” says Salguero. “It’s always on the table when you’re eating hanger steak.”

Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; oil grate with vegetable oil. Toss lime juice, red onion, chiles, garlic, radishes, and cilantro in a medium bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper. Stir in ¼ cup olive oil. Let chimol sit at room temperature while the steak cooks.

Season steak with salt and pepper, then rub all over with remaining 1 Tbsp. olive oil. Grill, turning occasionally, until deeply browned on the outside and cooked to desired doneness, 8–12 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer to a cutting board and generously drizzle with Worcestershire sauce. Let sit 5 minutes before thinly slicing.

Serve steak with chimol, tortillas, and more Worcestershire sauce.

Lara Lee’s meat-free version of the Laotian and Thai dish combines smoked tofu with pops of crunchy sesame seeds and a kick of lime dressing.

Smoked Tofu Larb With Lemongrass

(or more) fresh lime juice

soy sauce

Tbsp. palm brown sugar

(or more) chile powder

kosher salt,

glutinous rice

shallots,

lemongrass

Tbsp. black sesame seeds,

herbs

Tender lettuce leaves (for serving)

This meat-free version of the Laotian and Thai dish from Lara Lee, the author of Coconut and Sambal, combines smoked tofu with pops of crunchy sesame seeds and a kick of lime dressing. Toasted rice powder gives larb its distinct pebbled texture and nutty flavor. Making it is easy: Slowly toast uncooked glutinous (sticky) rice in a pan until it’s golden and deliciously fragrant, then grind in a spice mill until it’s the consistency of coarsely cracked black pepper. Make extra rice powder and keep the leftovers in a jar to add texture to noodles and salads…or just another batch of larb.

Mix lime juice, soy sauce, palm sugar, chile powder, and 1 tsp. salt in a large bowl to combine; set dressing aside.

Toast rice in a dry medium skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and nutty-smelling, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a spice mill and let cool, then coarsely grind. Set rice powder aside. Wipe out pan.

Heat oil in same pan over medium. Cook shallots and lemongrass, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Scrape into bowl with reserved dressing.

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