tomato paste

White Beans Au Vin

unsalted butter

carrots,

medium shallots, chopped (about 1 cup)

Kosher salt and black pepper

cremini mushrooms,

thyme

garlic cloves, minced (about 1 tablespoon)

dry red wine,

cannellini

low-sodium vegetable broth

Cognac

parsley,

balsamic vinegar

Beef bourguignon

olive oil

beef trimmed,

brown onion, finely chopped

shortcut rindless bacon, halved lengthways, cut into 1cm strips

garlic cloves, finely chopped

red wine

Massel beef stock

pickling onions, peeled (see tip)

small button mushrooms

Green beans, to serve

Whether or not you’ve fallen for this </span><a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019681-cheesy-white-bean-tomato-bake"><span>cheesy white-bean tomato bake</span></a><span>, we’d like you to meet its bolder counterpart, smoky and spiced, with lots of melty cheese. Black beans shine in a deep-red mixture of fried garlic, caramelized tomato paste, smoked paprika and cumin. The whole skillet gets coated in a generous sprinkling of sharp Cheddar or Manchego cheese, then baked until melted. The final result is what you hope for from a really good chili or stew, but in a lot less time. For a spicier rendition, add a pinch of cayenne with the paprika, or douse the final skillet with hot sauce. Serve with tortillas, tortilla chips, rice, a baked potato or fried eggs.

Cheesy, Spicy Black Bean Bake

garlic cloves,

smoked paprika

red-pepper flakes

cumin

black beans, drained and rinsed

water

cheese

Heat the oven to 475 degrees. In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high. Fry the garlic until lightly golden, about 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste, paprika, red-pepper flakes and cumin (be careful of splattering), and fry for 30 seconds, reducing the heat as needed to prevent the garlic from burning.

Add the beans, water and generous pinches of salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top then bake until the cheese has melted, 5 to 10 minutes. If the top is not as browned as you’d like, run the skillet under the broiler for 1 or 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

This pasta is all about the shallots, cooked down in a bath of olive oil to a jammy, caramelized paste. Tomato paste is there for tanginess, and anchovies for saltiness, but they serve more as background flavors to the sweetness of the shallot. This recipe makes enough caramelized shallot mixture for a double batch of pasta, or simply keep it refrigerated to spoon over fried eggs, or to serve underneath crispy chicken thighs or over roasted root vegetables like carrots or sweet potatoes.

Caramelized Shallot Pasta

shallots, very thinly sliced

garlic cloves, 4 thinly sliced, 1 finely chopped

salt and black pepper

red-pepper flakes,

anchovy fillets (about 12), drained

(4.5-ounce) tube

pasta

parsley, leaves and tender stems, finely chopped

Flaky sea salt

Heat olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium high. Add shallots and thinly sliced garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots have become totally softened and caramelized with golden-brown fried edges, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add red-pepper flakes and anchovies. (No need to chop the anchovies; they will dissolve on their own.) Stir to melt the anchovies into the shallots, about 2 minutes.

Add tomato paste and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly to prevent any scorching, until the tomato paste has started to cook in the oil a bit, caramelizing at the edges and going from bright red to a deeper brick red color, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer about half the mixture to a resealable container, leaving the rest behind. (These are your leftovers to be used elsewhere: in another batch of pasta or smeared onto roasted vegetables, spooned over fried eggs or spread underneath crispy chicken thighs.)

To serve, cook pasta according to package instructions in a large pot of salted boiling water until very al dente (perhaps more al dente than usual). Transfer to Dutch oven with remaining shallot mixture (or a skillet if you are using the leftover portion) and 1 cup pasta water. Cook over medium-high heat, swirling the skillet to coat each piece of pasta, using a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape up any bits on the bottom, until pasta is thick and sauce has reduced and is sticky, but not saucy, 3 to 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine parsley and finely chopped garlic clove, and season with flaky salt and pepper. Divide pasta among bowls, or transfer to one large serving bowl, and top with parsley mixture and a bit more red-pepper flakes, if you like.

Trying to slice into this eggplant Parmesan while it's molten hot creates an oozy mess, so let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes to firm up before serving.

Best Eggplant Parmesan

cloves

red onion, chopped

anchovy

red pepper flakes

dry white wine

tomatoes

basil leaves

oregano

Kosher salt

eggplants

panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

black pepper

Parmesan, divided

all-purpose flour

eggs,

basil

low-moisture mozzarella, grated (about 1⅓ cups)

mozzarella,

Trying to slice into this eggplant Parmesan while it's molten hot creates an oozy mess, so let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes to firm up before serving. This is part of BA's Best, a collection of our essential recipes.

Bon Appétit

Preheat oven to 350°. Heat oil in a large heavy ovenproof pot over medium. Cook garlic, stirring often, until golden, about 4 minutes. Add onion, anchovies (if using), and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring often, until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes. Add wine, bring to a boil, and cook until almost completely evaporated, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes, breaking up with your hands, and their juices; add basil and oregano and stir to combine. Swirl 1½ cups water into one tomato can, then the other, to rinse, and add to pot; season with salt. Transfer pot to oven; roast sauce, stirring halfway through, until thick and tomatoes are browned on top and around edges of pot, 2–2½ hours.

Let sauce cool slightly. Pass through the large holes of a food mill or process in a food processor until mostly smooth. Taste and season with salt.

Do Ahead: Sauce can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Lightly season eggplant slices all over with salt; place in a single layer on several layers of paper towels inside a rimmed baking sheet. Top with another layer of paper towels and more slices; repeat as needed. Top with a final layer of paper towels, then another rimmed baking sheet; weigh down with a heavy pot. Let eggplant sit until it has released excess liquid, 45–60 minutes. This step gives the eggplant a creamy texture when baked.

Meanwhile, pulse panko, oregano, pepper, and ¾ cup Parmesan in a food processor until very finely ground. Transfer to a shallow bowl.

Preheat oven to 350°. Place flour in another shallow bowl and eggs in a third shallow bowl. Working one at a time, dredge eggplant slices in flour, then dip in egg, allowing excess to drip off. Coat in breadcrumbs, packing all around, then shaking off excess. Place on wire racks.

Heat ⅔ cup oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Cook as many eggplant slices as will comfortably fit in pan, turning once, until deep golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and immediately press with more paper towel to absorb oil. Working in batches, repeat with remaining slices, adding remaining ⅔ cup oil and wiping out skillet as needed. Let cool. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Toss chopped herbs, low-moisture mozzarella, and remaining ¾ cup Parmesan in a medium bowl. Spread 1 cup sauce over the bottom of a 13x9" baking pan; top with a layer of eggplant slices (trim as needed). Drizzle 1 cup sauce over and sprinkle with one-third of cheese mixture. Add another layer of eggplant, followed by 1 cup sauce and half of remaining cheese mixture. Repeat layers with remaining slices, sauce, and cheese mixture. Cover with foil and bake on a rimmed baking sheet until eggplant is custardy, 45–60 minutes.

Remove from oven and arrange fresh mozzarella over eggplant. Increase oven temperature to 425° and bake, uncovered, until cheese is bubbling and browned in spots, 15–20 minutes longer. Let rest 30 minutes. Top with basil leaves just before slicing.

Do Ahead: Eggplant Parmesan can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool; cover with foil and chill. Reheat in a 350° oven, uncovering halfway through, until bubbling gently at edges.

Cheesy, saucy baked pasta is even more fun when you can slice it into wedges. Spaghetti, bucatini, rigatoni—if it’s pasta, it works for this recipe.

Baked Pasta alla Norma

globe eggplant, peeled,

cherry tomatoes

garlic cloves, smashed

extra-virgin olive oil,

½ tsp. crushed red pepper

eggs

spaghetti

Tbsp. capers

basil,

Cheesy, saucy baked pasta is even more fun when you can slice it into wedges. But for clean slices, let the pie rest before cutting. Spaghetti, bucatini, rigatoni—if it’s pasta, it works for this recipe. Just don’t rinse the noodles; you want that starch. Also, roasting the vegetables first concentrates their flavors and removes excess water.

Preheat oven to 425°. Combine eggplant, tomatoes, garlic, ¼ cup oil, and ½ tsp. red pepper flakes in a large ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron. Season generously with salt and toss to combine. Roast, shaking skillet once or twice, until eggplant is tender and tomatoes burst, 25–35 minutes. Let vegetables cool while you prepare the pasta (watch out for the hot handle when you take the skillet out of the oven). Reduce oven temperature to 400°.

Whisk eggs and tomato paste in a medium bowl until smooth, then whisk in about three-quarters of Parmesan.

Cook spaghetti in a pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Immediately drain pasta in a colander and shake to remove excess water; transfer pasta back to pot.

Add cooled vegetable mixture to pot with pasta. Wipe out skillet and drizzle in a little oil; roll around in skillet to coat. Add egg mixture to pasta and toss vigorously with tongs until pasta is evenly coated. Add capers and ½ cup basil and toss again to combine.

Transfer pasta mixture to skillet and press gently into an even layer. Top with remaining Parmesan, a few whole basil leaves, and an extra sprinkle of red pepper flakes.

Bake pasta until surface is nicely browned, 30–35 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes before cutting into wedges for serving.

Think of this weeknight-friendly pasta recipe as a lighter take on the classic Italian ragù that features cherry tomatoes, a red chile for some heat, and tons of fresh basil. It will also take you under an hour to make!

Summer Bolognese

garlic cloves, thinly sliced

chicken

red chile,

bucatini, spaghetti,

Tbsp. unsalted butter,

basil leaves, torn if large

Heat oil in a large pot over medium until shimmering. Cook garlic, stirring occasionally, until softened and fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add chicken, season with salt, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until there are only a few pink spots left, 5–7 minutes.

Add wine and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, smashing down on chicken with a wooden spoon, until wine is evaporated and meat is finely ground, 4–6 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally and still pressing down on meat, until tomato paste is slightly darkened, about 3 minutes.

Add tomatoes and chile and cook, stirring to coat, until tomatoes begin to burst, about 4 minutes. Smash some but not all of the tomatoes with the back of wooden spoon to help create a sauce, then continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened and about half of tomatoes are completely broken down, 4–6 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until very al dente, about 2 minutes less than package directions.

Using tongs, transfer pasta to pot with sauce. Add butter, 2 oz. Parmesan, and ½ cup pasta cooking liquid. Cook over medium heat, tossing constantly, until pasta is al dente and liquid is slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from from heat and fold in basil until fragrant and leaves are slightly wilted.

Transfer pasta to a platter. Top with more Parmesan.

The goal here was to achieve a tonkotsu-like broth without using any meat. Tomato paste, dried shiitake mushrooms, kombu, and a little bit of butter help to get you that rich umami-like effect.

Vegetarian Ramen

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

Tbsp. black or white sesame seeds

Tbsp. gochugaru (coarse Korean red pepper powder)

scallions

2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced

shiitake mushrooms

kombu

Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce

baby bok choy (about 12 oz. total), quartered lengthwise

5-oz. packages fresh ramen noodles

noodles

Cook garlic and ¼ cup oil in a medium pot over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic is beginning to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in sesame seeds and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a small bowl and stir in gochugaru; season with salt. Set garlic oil aside. Wipe out pot and set aside.

Trim dark green parts from scallions and thinly slice; set aside for serving. Coarsely chop white and pale green parts. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp oil in reserved pot over medium-high. Cook chopped scallions and ginger, stirring often, until scallions are charred in spots, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to stick to the bottom of pot and darkens slightly, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and kombu, then stir in 5 cups cold water. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat and let sit until mushrooms soften, about 10 minutes. Remove and discard kombu.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer solids to a blender. Add a ladleful or 2 of broth to blender and purée until smooth. Stir purée back into broth in pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add butter a piece at a time, whisking to combine after each addition before adding more. Stir in soy sauce; season with salt. Reduce heat to low and keep warm until ready to serve.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add bok choy and cook until bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bok choy to a plate. Return water to a boil and cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and divide among bowls.

To serve, ladle broth over noodles, then top with bok choy and reserved garlic oil. Top with eggs, nori, and cilantro if desired.

A flavorful Moroccan meatball couscous soup. A flavorful broth spiced with Moroccan flavors with meatballs and Israeli couscous. This soup is so warm and comforting. It can be made with ground lamb or beef that is seasoned and baked. The pearl couscous pairs beautifully and makes this soup so rich and flavorful!

Moroccan Meatball Couscous Soup

coriander cumin

EACH: curry powder AND dried thyme

turmeric AND chili powder

EACH: ground cinnamon AND nutmeg

salt and pepper

lb. ground lamb

oz Israeli (pearl) couscous

shallots, minced

garlic,

broth

mint

Meatballs: Position a rack near the center of the...

Meatballs: Position a rack near the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, set aside. In a medium bowl, combine the spices, salt, and pepper. Mix with the spoon. Add the tomato paste and ground meat and mix using your hands. Scoop about 1 teaspoon of the meatball mixture and form a ball, place on the prepared baking sheet. Bake the meatballs for about 10-12 minutes or until baked through.

Couscous: While meatballs are baking, heat 2 teaspoons of...

Couscous: While meatballs are baking, heat 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. When heated, add the couscous and allow the couscous to toast for just 1-2 minutes. You'll know it's done when you can smell the toastiness. Add a pinch of salt and 1 3/4 cups water, allow to come to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and allow to cook for 8-10 or until water is absorbed.

Soup: In a large pot or dutch oven,...

Soup: In a large pot or dutch oven, heat the 3 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and garlic and allow to saute for about 1 minute. Add in the chicken broth along with the remaining 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and add in the meatballs along with couscous and continue to simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the pot from heat, garnish with a handful of chopped mint or flat-leaf parsley, if desired.

Here, the bright and zesty flavors of lemon, tomato, ginger, jalapeño and garlic contrast beautifully with the rich, tender dark meat of the chicken. If you like your chicken skin extra crispy, slip it under the broiler for a few minutes after roasting. And yes, you can make this with chicken breasts, but we recommend the skin-on, bone-in variety, and keep a close eye on the time; they'll take less time to cook.

Spicy Roasted Chicken Thighs

chicken thighs,

ginger

jalapeño pepper, seeded,

lemon

salt,

cumin powder

coriander seeds coriander

Put chicken thighs in a bowl. Mince garlic, ginger and pepper. Toss with all remaining ingredients or put in a small food processor, and grind to a paste. (It is O.K. if the coriander seeds are not fully pulverized. They will add a little crunch.)

Rub mixture thoroughly into chicken. At this point, you can cover, and refrigerate for up to a day.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Put thighs, skin side up, in a roasting pan. Roast for 35 to 45 minutes or until done.

This simple, savory sauce is rich with tomato flavor. A few basil stems — or whatever herbs you’ve got on hand — add a welcome aromatic note, and a little zip with a blender or food mill leave it with a smooth, silky texture. Use in <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1021031-the-big-lasagna">lasagna</a>, pasta, pizza, or anywhere else you’d use a jar of store-bought marinara.

Simple Tomato Sauce

yellow onions, red onions or shallots

salt

peeled, diced, crushed or puréed tomatoes

tomato paste (optional)

red-pepper flakes (optional)

Set a medium Dutch oven or similar pot over medium heat, and add 4 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add onions and a pinch of salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring regularly, until onions are lightly golden and tender, 16 to 18 minutes.

In the meantime, pour the tomatoes into a large bowl and use hands to crush, if using whole tomatoes. Pour about 1 1/2 cups water into the can and swirl to rinse any remaining purée off the sides. Add the water to tomatoes in bowl and set aside.

Once onions are soft and golden, add garlic and cook, stirring, until it threatens to turn golden, about 90 seconds. Add tomato paste, if using, and cook until color deepens, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and season with salt. If using, add basil stems and red-pepper flakes. Stirring regularly, allow sauce to come to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until sauce tastes savory and all raw tomato flavor is gone, about 45 minutes.

Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and add remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Use a hand blender to purée, pass through a food mill or let cool, then purée using a blender or food processor. Tomato sauce can be made 1 day in advance and refrigerated or frozen up to 3 months.

Meera Sodha's take on the beloved Indonesian dish nasi goreng uses shredded brussels sprouts two ways: Some are sautéed and incorporated into the rice mixture, while others are marinated and added on top for crunch and zing. Don't skip the kecap manis—the syrupy Indonesian soy sauce is what gives nasi goreng its caramelization and depth.

Brussels Sprouts Nasi Goreng

Tbsp. kecap manis

white jasmine rice

brussels sprouts

red onion

garlic

Thai chiles

vegetable oil

Tbsp. (or more) white wine vinegar

Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

sugar

This take on the beloved Indonesian fried rice dish nasi goreng is from Meera Sodha's cookbook East: 120 Easy and Delicious Asian-Inspired Vegetarian and Vegan Recipes. Kecap manis, a syrupy Indonesian soy sauce that's sweetened with palm sugar and often infused with spices like star anise and black pepper, gives nasi goreng its characteristic caramelization and depth. Meera starts with a classic approach, smothering cooked long-grain rice in "umami-ific sauces" and then riffs, topping her version "with shredded, marinated brussels sprouts for crunch and zing." Kecap manis is available at large supermarkets, online, and in Southeast Asian stores—if you can't find it, though, you can follow Meera's approximation below. For a more traditional nasi goreng, served with a fried egg and sambal matah, check out Lara Lee's recipe.

If you don’t have kecap manis, approximate it by stirring together  3 Tbsp. agave nectar     and  1 Tbsp. dark soy sauce   (dark soy has a much deeper molasses flavor than normal soy) in a small bowl. Set agave mixture aside.

Bring 2½ cups water to a boil in an electric kettle, teapot, or saucepan. Place 1¾ cups jasmine rice in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Transfer rice to a medium saucepan, then pour in boiling water and return to a boil. Cover pan and reduce heat to as low as possible; cook 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let steam while you prepare the brussels sprouts.

Trim bottoms and remove any tough or wilty outer leaves from 1¾ lb. brussels sprouts. Using a chef’s knife, slice sprouts as thinly as possible. (Alternatively, you can use a food processor fitted with shredding disk.) Chop 1 medium red onion, crush 4 garlic cloves under the flat side of your knife, and finely chop 3 red or green Thai chiles (remove ribs and seeds first if you prefer less heat).

Heat 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook onion, stirring, until starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and two thirds of chopped chiles and cook, stirring often, until very fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Set 2 large handfuls of brussels sprouts aside in a medium bowl. Add remaining brussels sprouts to skillet and cook, stirring every 2 minutes or so, until beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Stir in 2 Tbsp. tomato paste, 2 Tbsp. kecap manis or reserved agave mixture, 1¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, and 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar and cook, stirring often, 5 minutes; remove from heat.

Add 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil, 1 tsp. sugar, remaining chopped chiles, and remaining 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, and remaining 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar to reserved raw brussels sprouts and toss well to coat. Taste and add more vinegar if you want more zing.

To finish nasi goreng, return skillet to medium heat and add steamed rice. Cook, stirring gently, until heated through and rice is incorporated, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Transfer to a platter and scatter raw brussels sprouts over.

For those of you who love lasagna's edges, where sticky tomato meets crisp cheese, this whole dish is for you — even the middle. A tube of tomato paste here mimics the deep flavors of sun-dried tomato. Frying a few generous squeezes caramelizes the tomato's sugars and saturates the olive oil, making a mixture that's ready to glom onto anything you stir through it. Here, it’s white beans, though you could add in kale, noodles, even roasted vegetables. Then, all that’s left to do is dot it with cheese and bake until it’s as molten or singed as you like. Serve with bread and a bitter-green salad.

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