Step 1

Tear the mushrooms into pieces of a couple fronds each, leaving the long stem attached.

Step 2

In a saucepan with high sides a lid, heat the butter on medium-high heat until melted and sizzling. When you can see the color of the milk solids in the butter just barely begin to turn tan in color, turn the heat to medium and swirl the pan a bit.

Step 3

The goal here is to develop flavor by browning, but not burning the butter.

Step 4

When the butter is aromatic and starting to brown, take the pan off the heat and swirl it slowly a few times.

Step 5

Put the pan back on the heat and add the sage, swirl the pan and cook for a minute more, then add the stock or water, salt, a few cracks of fresh pepper and the mushrooms, cover the pot with a tight fitting lid, increase the heat to medium high and cook, stirring occasionally to coat the hens with the pan juices for about 10-15 minutes.

Step 6

Continue cooking the hens until the liquid is gone and there’s only butter. Stir the hens to coat with the juices, then taste a piece and adjust the salt as necessary until it tastes good to you.

Step 7

Cook until the mushrooms have just started to brown lightly on the edges. Turn the heat down a bit. Add the garlic and cook for a minute or two more. When the hens look good to you, add the wine and the squeeze of lemon, simmer for a minute to cook off the alcohol.

Step 8

Divide the mushrooms between preheated dinner plates or a hot serving dish. Spoon the remaining juices over the mushrooms and serve.

Step 9

They’re good as a side dish or served with meat.