Step 1

Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment. Set a wire rack in a second rimmed baking sheet. In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil over medium-high. Reduce to low and add 1 teaspoon salt. While stirring with a silicone spatula, gradually add the flour. After all the flour has been added, cook the mixture, stirring constantly, until it forms a smooth, stiff, evenly moistened dough, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

Step 2

Lightly dust the counter with flour, set the dough on top and lightly flour the dough; the dough will be still hot to the touch. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough about ½ inch thick (exact dimensions do not matter), then use a bench scraper to fold the dough into thirds. Repeat the process 3 or 4 more times, or until the dough is still warm to the touch but workable; add more flour as needed to prevent sticking. Using your hands, knead the dough until smooth and elastic, about 3 minutes. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rest for 15 minutes.

Step 3

Using the bench scraper, divide the dough into 3 equal pieces and re-cover with the towel. Using your hands, roll one piece of dough against the counter into a rope about 18 inches long and about ¾ inch in diameter. Cut the rope into ½-inch pieces and lightly dust the pieces with flour. Dip the back of the tines of a fork into flour, then gently press into each piece to create a ridged surface. Transfer the gnocchi to the parchment-lined baking sheet; try to not allow them to touch. Shape the remaining pieces of dough in the same way.

Step 4

In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt and about one-third of the gnocchi. Return to a boil, stirring once or twice, and cook for 2 minutes (the gnocchi will float to the surface even before they are cooked through). Using a slotted spoon and allowing excess water to fall back into the pot, transfer the gnocchi in batches to the wire rack set over the baking sheet; spread them out so they don’t touch. The gnocchi will be very soft at this point, but will firm up as they cool. Cook and drain the remaining gnocchi in the same way, in two more batches.

Step 5

After the final batch of gnocchi has been transferred to the rack, reserve about 1½ cups of the cooking water; discard the remainder. Let the gnocchi cool for at least 10 minutes or up to 1 hour to allow them to firm up.

Step 6

When you are ready to serve, in a nonstick 12-inch skillet over medium, cook the pancetta, stirring often, until browned and crisped, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small bowl; set aside. Pour off and discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat, then add 1 tablespoon oil and the garlic to the pan. Cook over medium, stirring, until the garlic is light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer to the bowl with the pancetta. Return the pan to medium and add the gnocchi, pepper flakes and ½ cup reserved cooking water. Cook, stirring and tossing often, until the gnocchi are heated through, 3 to 5 minutes; add up to ½ cup more reserved water as needed to form a silky sauce. Add the pancetta and garlic; cook, stirring, until heated through, about 1 minute.

Step 7

Off heat, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, lemon juice and parsley. Taste and season with salt and black pepper. Serve sprinkled with the Parmesan.