Step 1

Prepare the grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, set it to 450 degrees. If using a charcoal grill, fill a chimney starter with charcoal, light it, and when the coals are white-gray with ash, pour them onto the charcoal grate, adding more charcoal, if necessary. Put the lid on the grill, making sure the vents are open all the way. When all of the coals are gray and hot, about 15 minutes, your grill should be medium-hot. (Use a grill thermometer, or test the heat by holding your hand, palm-down, about 4 inches from the grate, making sure that nothing flammable, such as clothing, is near the heat. If you can hold it there for about 4 seconds, the heat should be at medium, or about 450 degrees. Pull your hand away from the heat before it gets painful.) Make sure the cooking grates are clean.

Step 2

While the grill preheats, make the dressing: In a medium bowl, whisk together the tahini or peanut butter, soy sauce, vinegar, toasted sesame oil, sugar, red chili oil and the ground Sichuan peppercorns, if using, until the sugar has dissolved.

Step 3

Make the chicken: Pound the chicken thighs to 1/3-inch thickness and thread each onto two parallel skewers, to keep them flat. Or cut the chicken into 1-inch chunks and evenly thread on the pieces, kebab-style. For either way, leave a few inches empty at the end of each skewer, to serve as a handle. Lightly season the skewered chicken with salt.

Step 4

Lightly oil the grill grates and place the skewers on them; close the lid and cook until grill marks form, 3 to 5 minutes per side. If the chicken browns too quickly, shift it off direct heat for 30 to 45 seconds, then back on again. You’re looking for some char and meat that is just cooked through (165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer).

Step 5

Transfer the chicken skewers to a platter. Immediately brush the chicken with a generous amount of the dressing, then top with sliced scallions and serve. Pass the remaining dressing at the table.