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Step 1
Trim any excess fat off of the brisket, if necessary. If you're not sure how to go about it, this is a good tutorial.
Step 2
In a small bowl, mix the salt, black pepper, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, dry mustard, espresso powder (if using), and cayenne pepper. Coat the brisket evenly on both sides with about half of the spice rub. Allow the meat to sit for 10 to 15 minutes to "sweat" and absorb the rub, then coat the meat with the remainder of the rub. It may seem like too much rub but it's not; use it all. Place the brisket on a rack over a baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for 24 to 36 hours.
Step 3
Preheat your smoker to 225°F.
Step 4
Place the brisket in the smoker, fat side up. If using a digital meat thermometer with a wired probe (which I highly recommend if you have one), insert it into the thickest part of the meat to monitor the internal temperature continuously. (If you only have an instant-read thermometer, check the temperature periodically by quickly inserting it into the thickest part of the meat, being careful to minimize the time the smoker is open to avoid losing heat and smoke.) Smoke for 6 to 8 hours, or until the internal temperature is 165°F to 170°F, and the bark is a nice mahogany color.
Step 5
Cut 2 sheets of butcher paper or aluminum foil, each about 3 feet long, and overlap them on a large work surface. Using heat-proof gloves or oven mitts, remove the brisket from the smoker and place it lengthwise on the papers/foil, fat side down, about 1 foot from the bottom edge. Fold the bottom edge over the brisket and pull it tightly. Fold in the sides snugly, then continue rolling the brisket, keeping the wrap tight. Make sure the brisket is fully enclosed. Return it to the smoker, seam side down (it doesn't matter if the fat side is up or down at this point). If using a thermometer with a wired probe, place it back in through the paper/foil. Continue cooking until the internal temperature reaches 203°F, 4 to 6 hours more. The cooking time will vary with each piece of meat; the brisket is done when it reaches the proper temperature and the thermometer probe slides in and out of the meat with little resistance, like soft butter.
Step 6
Place the wrapped brisket in an insulated cooler to rest for 1 to 3 hours, allowing the meat to relax and the juices to redistribute.
Step 7
To serve the brisket, unwrap it over a sheet pan to catch any juices (you'll want those for serving). Transfer the brisket, lean side down, to a cutting board (preferably one with a well for collecting juices). Using a sharp carving knife or an electric carving knife, slice the meat against the grain. Note that the grain in the flat-cut portion of the brisket runs perpendicular to the grain in the point-cut portion. So, start by slicing the flat cut ¼-inch thick. When the slices start to show a line of fat running through the middle, you have reached the point cut, so rotate your slicing angle 90 degrees and cut the point into slightly thicker slices, cutting away any excess fat as you go. Arrange the slices on a platter or plates and spoon the reserved meat drippings over them. Serve barbecue sauce and other fixins’ on the side.
Step 8
Note: Before cooking, take note of the direction of the muscle fibers in the flat cut, and make a cut in one of the corners to indicate which way to cut against the grain once the brisket is cooked (it's hard to see once the bark is there).