Step 1

Wash collard greens. Stack 5 or 6 leaves at a time and roll tightly from the long side to create a long, cigarlike cylinder. Slice crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick ribbons.

Step 2

Heat 2 teaspoons bacon fat (or oil) in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the collards and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining 2 teaspoons bacon fat (or oil), collards and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

Step 3

Return the first batch of collards to the pan. Add water, garlic, brown sugar, crushed red pepper and nutmeg. Cook, stirring, until the collards are very tender, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice.