green onion scallion

This super-savory dish draws its inspiration from Taiwanese beef noodle soup, then gilds the lily with a Dutch oven’s worth of sweet, slow-simmered onions—the best part of French onion soup.

French Onion Beef Noodle Soup

vegetable oil

lb. English-style bone-in beef short ribs, cut into 2" segments

Kosher salt

scallions, white and dark green parts separated

garlic

4" piece ginger, scrubbed, thinly sliced

star anise pods

cinnamon sticks

cloves

black peppercorns

coriander seeds

dry white wine

(or more) low-sodium soy sauce

unsalted butter

lb. onions (about 10 medium), thinly sliced

Tbsp. (or more) unseasoned rice vinegar

fresh or 18 oz. dried ramen noodles

This super-savory dish draws its inspiration from Taiwanese beef noodle soup, then gilds the lily with a Dutch oven’s worth of sweet, slow-simmered onions—the best part of French onion soup, if you ask this recipe’s developer, Amiel Stanek. It takes some doing, but the effort is worth it. If you’re not planning on serving a crowd, the leftover soup base freezes beautifully, meaning you can have a big-flavor weeknight dinner in your back pocket.

Bon Appétit

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Season short ribs with salt and, working in batches, cook, turning occasionally, until well browned on all sides, 12–14 minutes. Transfer to a platter as you go. Carefully pour off fat left behind in pot until there is just enough to cover bottom of pot; discard.

Return pot to medium heat. Cook whole white scallion parts, garlic, and ginger, stirring occasionally, until they are starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Add star anise, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, and coriander seeds and cook, stirring often, until fragrant and oil is sizzling, about 1 minute. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pot with a wooden spoon. Simmer until almost completely evaporated, about 3 minutes. Return beef to pot and add soy sauce and 12 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cover partially with a lid. Simmer until meat is not quite falling off the bone, about 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, heat butter in another large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high until foaming subsides. Add onions, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until they begin to take on some color, about 15 minutes. (If they don’t fit in your pot, add as much as you can, cover, and steam 5 minutes. Stir in remaining onions and continue cooking.) Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are deep golden and softened but not mushy, 30–45 minutes.

Using tongs, remove beef from broth and let cool until you can handle. Tear meat into bite-size pieces, discarding any bone and excess fat as you go. Strain broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl; discard solids.

Add meat and broth to pot with onions. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until liquid is reduced a bit and flavors have melded, about 30 minutes. Add vinegar; taste and add more vinegar and/or soy sauce if needed.

Thinly slice remaining scallion greens. Cook noodles according to package directions. Divide among bowls. Ladle soup over noodles, making sure each bowl gets some meat and plenty of onions. Top with scallion greens and serve.

Starting your grilled cheese (slathered in mayo, obviously) in a cold nonstick skillet, then slowly and gently heating it up is the trick to achieving evenly golden brown, supremely crisp exteriors, with molten cheesy interiors. And that whole “added value” thing? Oh, it’s just a little nothing of a condiment we dreamt up featuring charred scallions! and pickled jalapeños! It’s the perfect antidote to all that rich, oozy cheese.

Grilled Cheese

olive oil

scallions

black pepper

jalapeños

bread

mayonnaise

sharp cheddar cheese,

American cheese

mustard

Dijon mustard (optional)

There's the grilled cheese you made when you were eleven years old...and then there's this guy. To get that evenly golden brown, supremely crisp bread and a molten cheesy interior, you'll start your sandwich (slathered in mayo, obviously) in a cold nonstick skillet, then heat it up slowly and gently. And that whole “added-value” thing? Oh, it’s just a little nothing of a bonus add-in we dreamt up featuring charred scallions and pickled jalapeños. It’s the perfect spicy, bright antidote to all that rich, oozy cheese.

Heat 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high until shimmering. While oil heats up, trim green parts of 12 scallions so they fit in skillet. Add scallions to skillet (hairy bits still attached; we’ll discard them later on) and toss to coat in oil. Season with salt and pepper and cook, undisturbed, until deeply charred, about 4 minutes. Toss and continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until softened and charred all over, 2–3 minutes longer. Transfer scallions to a cutting board and let cool; reserve skillet.

Trim and discard hairy ends of scallions, then chop crosswise into ½" pieces. Transfer to a small bowl. Finely chop ⅓ cup pickled jalapeños. Transfer to bowl with scallions and toss to combine.

Arrange 4 ½"-thick slices country-style bread on cutting board. Spread 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise on one side of each slice.

Using a vegetable peeler, shave 4 oz. cheddar cheese into long ribbons.

Place 2 bread slices (mayonnaise side down) in skillet. Arrange shaved cheddar over, overlapping as necessary so they in the confines of the bread. Top cheese with scallion-jalapeño relish.

Arrange 2 slices of American cheese over relish. Close sandwiches with remaining 2 slices of bread (mayonnaise side up).

Heat skillet over medium and cook sandwiches, undisturbed, until deeply golden brown and crisp underneath, 5–7 minutes. (We start the sandwiches in an unheated skillet so they can gently and evenly brown, and don’t end up burning. This is how you get that perfect exterior crunch.) Using a spatula, carefully turn sandwiches. If anything goes awry, just push your sandwich back together and continue. Season cooked side with salt and reduce heat to medium-low and continue to cook until evenly golden brown and cheese is melted, 4–5 minutes longer. This time, we’re cooking them at a lower heat because the skillet is already hot from the previous side, the opposite process of the previous step. Transfer both sandwiches to a cutting board. Season other side of sandwich with salt.

Mix ¼ cup whole-grain mustard and 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard (if using) in a small bowl.

Cut grilled cheese sandwiches in half. Serve with mustard alongside for dipping.

You’ll find variations of okonomiyaki all across Japan (the name itself translates to “as you like it, grilled,” speaking to the dish’s flexibility). The savory cabbage pancakes can have all sorts of add-ins (pork belly, octopus, shrimp, squid, cheese!) and are typically decorated with zig-zags of tangy-sweet Kewpie mayonnaise and salty-sour okonomiyaki sauce and piles of wispy bonito flakes and nori. While nothing compares to the real deal, we took a cue from the okonomiyaki tots at Brooklyn’s Chuko and dressed roasted brussels sprouts like okonomiyaki, with lots of our favorite toppings. This okonomiyaki sauce is an approximation of the bottled stuff and achieves a similar sweet-acidic-salty-gingery punch that’s tamed by the rich, cooling mayo. Don’t skip it! If you’re a vegetarian, leave off the bonito flakes and seek out veg-friendly Worcestershire sauce.

Okonomiyaki Brussels Sprouts

lb. brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved lengthwise

Tbsp. olive oil

Worcestershire sauce

ketchup

Tbsp. honey

Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

tsp. finely grated peeled ginger (from one 1" piece)

½ tsp. shichimi togarashi,

nori sheet, crushed into confetti-size pieces

Kewpie mayonnaise (for serving)

bonito flakes

sesame seeds

scallions,

Arrange oven racks in top and lower thirds of oven. Place one rimmed baking sheet on top rack and another on bottom rack; preheat to 450°. Toss brussels sprouts and oil in a large bowl; season with salt. Carefully remove one hot pan from oven and transfer half of sprouts to pan—they’ll sizzle! Working quickly, turn sprouts cut sides down (don't worry if you can't get to all of them; it doesn't have to be perfect!). Repeat with second pan and remaining sprouts. Roast brussels sprouts, rotating pans halfway through, until cut sides are seared and tops are browned, 15–20 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, honey, vinegar, ginger, and ½ tsp. shichimi togarashi in a small pot. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and gently simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened and glazy, 3–4 minutes. Taste and season with salt.

Pour glaze over brussels sprouts and toss to coat. Transfer to a platter. Sprinkle with nori, then squeeze mayonnaise over in stripes, covering the whole dish (trust us!). Pile bonito flakes in the center of the sprouts. Top with sesame seeds, scallions, and a dusting of togarashi.

You need day-old rice to make this vibrant, springy pilaf recipe, but it’s worth planning ahead. The precooked rice gets super crisp before it’s tossed with soft feta, crunchy pistachios and snap peas, and jammy golden raisins. It’s a true study in textures.

Crispy Green Rice Pilaf

pistachios

cilantro, mint, basil, and/or dill

(or up to 3) serrano chile, stems removed, split lengthwise

lime juice

Tbsp. white miso

kosher salt,

extra-virgin olive oil

rice,

sugar snap peas

feta

golden raisins

peas

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast pistachios on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 5–8 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop.

Meanwhile, blend herbs, one of the chiles, lime juice, miso, ½ tsp. salt, and 2 Tbsp. water in a blender on high speed until well combined. Drizzle in ⅓ cup oil and continue to blend until sauce is very smooth. Taste sauce for heat; if it seems mild, add another chile or two. It should be slightly spicier than you’re comfortable with since it’s going to get mellowed out by everything that it’s tossed with. Season with salt if needed.

Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high until very hot. Add rice, pressing down with a spatula in a single layer to create as much contact with surface of pan as possible. Reduce heat to medium and cook, undisturbed, until rice is deep golden brown underneath, 6–8 minutes. Season with salt.

While rice cooks, thinly slice snap peas and scallions on a long diagonal and transfer to a medium bowl. Add pistachios, feta, and raisins and toss to combine.

Add fresh peas to rice and continue to cook over medium heat, tossing often, until peas are just cooked through, about 2 minutes.

Transfer rice mixture to bowl with vegetables and toss to combine. Drizzle in herb sauce, tossing again to coat well. Taste and season with salt if needed.

The goal here was to achieve a tonkotsu-like broth without using any meat. Tomato paste, dried shiitake mushrooms, kombu, and a little bit of butter help to get you that rich umami-like effect.

Vegetarian Ramen

garlic cloves, thinly sliced

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

Tbsp. black or white sesame seeds

Tbsp. gochugaru (coarse Korean red pepper powder)

2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced

tomato paste

shiitake mushrooms

kombu

Tbsp. unsalted butter,

Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce

baby bok choy (about 12 oz. total), quartered lengthwise

5-oz. packages fresh ramen noodles

noodles

Cook garlic and ¼ cup oil in a medium pot over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic is beginning to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in sesame seeds and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a small bowl and stir in gochugaru; season with salt. Set garlic oil aside. Wipe out pot and set aside.

Trim dark green parts from scallions and thinly slice; set aside for serving. Coarsely chop white and pale green parts. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp oil in reserved pot over medium-high. Cook chopped scallions and ginger, stirring often, until scallions are charred in spots, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to stick to the bottom of pot and darkens slightly, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and kombu, then stir in 5 cups cold water. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat and let sit until mushrooms soften, about 10 minutes. Remove and discard kombu.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer solids to a blender. Add a ladleful or 2 of broth to blender and purée until smooth. Stir purée back into broth in pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add butter a piece at a time, whisking to combine after each addition before adding more. Stir in soy sauce; season with salt. Reduce heat to low and keep warm until ready to serve.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add bok choy and cook until bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bok choy to a plate. Return water to a boil and cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and divide among bowls.

To serve, ladle broth over noodles, then top with bok choy and reserved garlic oil. Top with eggs, nori, and cilantro if desired.

This approachable weeknight dinner takes its cue from Japanese grilled chicken meatballs (tsukune), and the glossy, sweet-and-sour sauce that comes with it.

Sheet-Pan Chicken Meatballs

Tbsp. rice cooking wine

soy sauce

½" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated

½ tsp. black pepper

broccoli (about 1½ lb.)

2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided

red pepper flakes (optional)

chicken

egg,

scallions, thinly sliced

garlic cloves, finely grated

2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated

panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

¼ tsp. black pepper

rice and sesame seeds (for serving)

Mix ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, wine (if using), honey, soy sauce, ginger, and pepper in a small saucepan. Measure out ¼ cup mixture into a small bowl; set aside for glazing meatballs later. Bring remaining mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally and reducing heat if needed, until sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Transfer sauce to a small bowl.

Place a rack in upper third of oven; preheat to 450°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Trim broccoli stems and remove from crown. Peel off tough outer skin; slice crosswise into ½" pieces. Cut florets into 2" pieces. Toss on prepared baking sheet with 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil, 1 tsp. salt, and a few pinches of red pepper flakes (if using). Push to the edges of baking sheet to create a space for meatballs. Brush space with remaining 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil.

Mix chicken, egg, scallions, garlic, ginger, panko, sesame oil, pepper, remaining 1½ tsp. salt, and ¼ cup water in a medium bowl. Using wet hands, form into twelve 1½"-diameter meatballs. Arrange on baking sheet; brush with some of the reserved glazing mixture. Bake until meatballs are cooked through, 14–18 minutes. Remove from oven; heat broiler. Brush meatballs with remaining glazing mixture; broil until broccoli is charred and meatballs are browned in spots, about 5 minutes.

Spoon meatballs and broccoli over rice in bowl. Drizzle with sauce and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

A pan full of veggie-packed fried rice is one of the easiest and most satisfying weeknight dinners we know of. 

Egg Fried Rice

broccoli

eggs

Tbsp. sugar

ginger

Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided

cooked, day-old sushi rice

A pan full of veggie-packed fried rice is one of the easiest and most satisfying weeknight dinners we know of. And once you get the hang of this basic method, you'll be able to turn leftover rice and whatever odds and ends you have in the fridge—some rotisserie chicken, roasted veggies, a wedge of cabbage, kimchi—into a quick and delicious meal. If you don't have a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet, using a non-stick pan is your best bet; you won't get the same char on the veggies, but you don't want the eggs to stick to the pan. And don't be tempted to leave out the sugar—as weird as it may seem, it's the secret to getting color on the rice in a hurry.

This fried rice comes together really quickly, so it's important that all of your ingredients are prepped and ready to go before you start cooking. First up: broccoli. Holding onto broccoli stem, shave around the head with a chef’s knife and let the florets fall onto cutting board. If the pieces seem too large, break them down further into bite-sized pieces. Remove an inch or so of woody end of the stem. Use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to peel the remaining stem, then coarsely chop into pieces about the same size as florets so they'll cook at the same rate. Transfer broccoli to a medium bowl.

Trim 1 bunch scallions on both ends, then cut crosswise into 1" pieces. Transfer to bowl with broccoli.

Whisk 4 eggs in another medium bowl to combine and season with ½ tsp. salt.

Whisk 1 Tbsp. sugar, 4 tsp. soy sauce, and 1 tsp. salt in a small bowl. Grate 1" piece ginger and 2 garlic cloves into bowl and give the sauce another whisk.

Time to cook! Bring all of your prepped ingredients to the stove. Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large cast-iron skillet—or non-stick if you don't have one—over medium-high until just beginning to smoke. Add broccoli and scallions, season with a good pinch of salt, and toss with a spatula to coat in oil. Cook, undisturbed, until well charred on one side, about 5 minutes. When we say "undisturbed," we mean it! You need consistent, direct contact with the hot pan in order to get color on the veggies, so resist the urge to constantly fuss with them. Mix with spatula and continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until broccoli is crisp-tender and scallions are wilted, about 2 more minutes. Transfer veggies back to the bowl they came from.

Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil in skillet over medium-low. Add eggs and cook, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until large curds begin to form, about 30 seconds. The eggs will cook very quickly, so try to err on the side of runny and less-cooked because they can become spongy if overcooked.

Add 3 cups rice and soy sauce mixture to eggs. Toss well to combine, then press down evenly into skillet. Cook, undisturbed, until rice is slightly crisped on one side, about 5 minutes. (Remember: undisturbed!)

Return veggies to skillet and toss well to combine. Remove from heat, add 2 Tbsp. sesame oil and 2 Tbsp. vinegar, and toss once more.

This herby, peppery blend is used as a seasoning for many traditional dishes from Trinidad and Tobago.

Green Seasoning

limes

½ medium onion, coarsely chopped

Trinidad seasoning peppers, Cubanelle peppers, ají dulce peppers,

Scotch bonnet

chives,

culantro

(loosely packed) broadleaf thyme (optional)

½ cup (loosely packed) thyme leaves

coconut vinegar or unseasoned rice vinegar

This herby, peppery blend is used as a seasoning for many traditional dishes from Trinidad and Tobago and can be treated as both a base flavoring agent and a finisher. Broadleaf thyme is a strong herb used often in Caribbean cuisine. You’ll need a batch of green seasoning to make either the Aloo and Chana or the Curry Goat (but preferably both!) from Cane chef Peter Prime’s take on a Trinidadian lime—a hangout, or in this case, a full-on roti lime feast.

Working in batches if needed, pulse lime zest and juice, onion, scallions, garlic, peppers, chile, chives, culantro, broadleaf thyme (if using), thyme, and vinegar in a food processor, scraping down sides as needed, until smooth.

Do ahead: Seasoning can be made 1 day head. Cover and chill, or freeze in small portions up to 2 months.

Use the silky shreds of roti to scoop up all the various curries, chows, and chokas that make up this roti lime feast.

This is a “necessity is the mother of invention” kind of recipe, borne from isolation, scant ingredients, an oversupply of kimchi, and sheer hunger. Yet this unconventional one-pot approach also happens to be one of the simplest ways to prepare mac and cheese. 

One-Pot Kimchi and Squash Mac and Cheese

butternut squash (about 1¼ lb.)

onion

Napa cabbage kimchi

lb. elbow macaroni, shells, cavatappi, rigatoni, or other short pasta

vegetable broth

Diamond

lb. sharp cheddar

“This is a ‘necessity is the mother of invention’ kind of recipe, borne from isolation, scant ingredients, an oversupply of kimchi, and sheer hunger,” writers recipe developer and cookbook author Hetty McKinnon. “Yet this unconventional one-pot approach also happens to be one of the simplest ways to prepare mac and cheese. Starchy pasta cooking water mingles with melted cheese to create a creamy, gooey sauce that still feels light. Kimchi and sharp cheese are a natural pairing (have you tried adding kimchi to your grilled cheese?) and combine harmoniously with butternut squash to deliver that irresistible triumvirate of flavors: spicy, savory, and sweet. You could use sweet potato instead of squash, or even add a bunch of spinach or kale leaves to bring some greenery to the dish. Keep this dish vegetarian by using a vegan kimchi, but if you don’t have dietary requirements, any type is fine.”

Peel ½ small butternut squash (about 1¼ lb.) and cut flesh into ½" cubes. Peel and finely chop 1 onion. Using the flat side of your chef’s knife, crush 1 garlic clove, then peel and finely chop. Coarsely chop 1 cup kimchi (some kimchi juice is okay; no need to drain).

Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until softened slightly, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and kimchi and cook until kimchi is starting to brown and stick to bottom of pot, about 5 minutes.

Add squash to pot and reduce heat to medium. Cover and cook, stirring halfway through, until squash is tender (a paring knife should pierce flesh easily), 6–8 minutes.

Remove lid and stir in 1 lb. elbow macaroni, shells, cavatappi, rigatoni, or other short pasta, along with 4 cups vegetable stock or water. If using water, add 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt (if you broth isn't very flavorful, you may want to add a bit of salt too; start with 1/2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1/4 tsp. Morton kosher salt). Cover and bring to a simmer; cook until pasta is al dente and most of stock is absorbed (you want some starchy liquid left in pan), 6–8 minutes.

Meanwhile, grate 1 lb. sharp cheddar on the large holes of a box grater. Trim and finely slice 4 scallions.

Reduce heat to low and add cheese to pot; stir until cheese is melted and gooey, about 2 minutes. Season mac and cheese with a few grinds of freshly ground black pepper and scatter scallions over.

While firm tofu is traditional, any vegetable or meat would be in good company with this stew’s spicy-funky base of kimchi, gochugaru, and gochujang.

Kimchi Jjigae

pork bacon

onion,

Tbsp. gochugaru (coarse Korean hot pepper flakes)

Tbsp. gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste)

firm tofu, cut into 1" pieces

rice (for serving)

Slice pork belly into long strips about ½" thick, then thinly slice strips crosswise. Heat a small pot over medium. Add pork belly and cook, stirring often, until some fat has cooked out into the pan and meat is cooked through but not browned, about 3 minutes. Pour off all but 1 Tbsp. fat (if needed). Add onion and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add kimchi and juices and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid evaporates and kimchi is softened, about 5 minutes.

Add gochugaru, gochujang, and 2 cups water and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until kimchi is very tender and flavors in stew come together, 20–30 minutes.

Add tofu to stew and cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Divide stew among bowls and top with scallions. Serve with rice alongside.

Do Ahead: Stew can be made 4 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

We think Shaoxing wine, a Chinese fermented rice wine, is the secret sauce that makes this stir-fry recipe sing. It’s pretty easy to find at Asian markets, but don’t confuse it with rice vinegar! If you see bottles labeled “rice cooking wine” without the Shaoxing designation, they will work too. While you can substitute dry sherry, nothing else achieves quite the same flavor.

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