mirin

Fried shiitake mushrooms and hoisin sauce are stuffed into fluffy steamed buns in this vegan-friendly recipe from Momofuku Noodle Bar.

Momofuku Shiitake Mushroom Steamed Buns

For the Steamed Buns:

water, brought to 115º

active dry yeast

bread flour

sugar

vegetable shortening,

salt

baking powder

baking soda

For the Pickles:

Kirby cucumbers

For the BBQ Mushrooms and Serving:

sake

soy sauce

liquid smoke

mushrooms

vegetable oil

hoisin sauce

green onions,

Momofuku's Mushroom Steamed Buns Are Pure Heaven

You can use this foolproof steaming method to cook any sturdy fish—salmon, snapper, black cod, or arctic char would all be great in place of the black bass. The kombu, though optional, adds a subtle layer of umami flavor to the delicate broth.

Soy And Ginger Steamed Fish

6–8-oz. skinless black bass fillets

Kosher salt

kombu (optional)

Tbsp. sake

mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)

2" piece ginger, peeled,

Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

scallions, thinly sliced

rice (for serving)

Bon Appétit

Soy and Ginger Steamed Fish

Slice fish into six pieces; season all over with salt.

Combine kombu (if using), sake, soy sauce, mirin, and ¾ cup water in a medium donabe or Dutch oven with lid. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Layer cabbage stems, then leaves in pot. Scatter mushrooms and ginger over, then place fish over mushrooms. Cover pot and steam until fish is opaque and just cooked through, 8–10 minutes.

Drizzle with sesame oil and top with scallions. Serve in shallow bowls with broth spooned over and rice alongside.

This quick 3-ingredient homemade mirin works perfectly as a substitute for teriyaki and other recipes calling for mirin. All you need is sake, sugar and water to make it.

Homemade Mirin

water

sake wine

Add sugar and water to a small saucepan and place over medium heat.

Bring to a boil, and allow to boil gently for 2-3 minutes. Then remove from heat.

Dribble in the sake slowly until you reach the desired level of sweetness.

Stir to mix and set aside to cool completely. Store in a mason jar in the fridge.

You can easily make this stir-fried udon recipe vegetarian—omit the pork and sub in 8 oz. shiitake or crimini mushrooms.

Better-Than-Takeout Stir-Fried Udon

vegetable oil, divided

cabbage

instant udon noodles, flavor packets discarded

sesame oil

pork

scallions,

ginger

red pepper flakes

sesame seeds,

You can easily make this vegetarian—omit the pork and sub in 8 oz. shiitake or crimini mushrooms. See the step-by-step instructions here.

Better-than-Takeout Stir-Fried Udon

Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add cabbage and cook, tossing often, until edges are browned, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low and continue to cook, tossing often, until thickest parts of cabbage leaves are tender, about 4 minutes longer. Remove from heat and set skillet aside.

Place udon in a large heatproof bowl (or pot if you don’t have one) and cover with 6 cups boiling water. Let sit 1 minute, stirring to break up noodles, then drain in a colander. Transfer noodles back to bowl and toss with sesame oil. Transfer cabbage to bowl with noodles. Wipe out skillet.

Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in same skillet over medium-high and add pork, breaking up and spreading across surface of pan with a spatula or tongs. Cook pork, undisturbed, until underside is brown, about 3 minutes. The pork will never brown if you’re fussing with it the whole time, so when we say “undisturbed,” that means keep your paws off it and let the heat of the pan and the pork do their thing. When pork is browned, break up meat into small bits. Cook, tossing, just until there’s no more pink, about 1 minute. Add chopped scallions (the pale parts), ginger, and red pepper. Continue to cook, tossing often, until scallions are softened and bottom of skillet has started to brown, about 1 minute. Add udon mixture, mirin, and soy sauce and cook, tossing constantly, until noodles are coated in sauce (be sure to scrape bottom of skillet to dissolve any browned bits), about 45 seconds. Remove from heat and fold in 1 Tbsp. sesame seeds and dark-green parts of scallions. Top with more sesame seeds before serving.

What’s better than a jammy egg? One that’s been sitting in a tangy-salty marinade of chiles, soy, mirin, and vinegar, like this classic star of Korean banchan. The longer you let them sit, the more flavor they’ll pick up, but if you only have an hour, serve egg quarters with some of the pickling liquid drizzled over for extra flavor.

Soy-Marinated Eggs

eggs

garlic cloves,

chiles de árbol

Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

Toasted sesame seeds (for serving; optional)

Gently lower eggs into a large saucepan of boiling water. When water returns to a gentle boil, cook 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl of ice water and let cool 2 minutes (eggs may still be a little warm). Remove eggs from ice water and peel.

Meanwhile, bring garlic, chiles, soy sauce, mirin, vinegar, and 2 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat; simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add eggs. Let sit at least 1 hour.

To serve, drain eggs, quarter, and sprinkle with sesame seeds if desired.

Do Ahead: Eggs can be marinated 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Stuck in a salmon rut? We got you. You'll never believe how easy it is to make your own sweet-salty teriyaki sauce at home, and there's no better application for it than this beyond-simple weeknight favorite.

Salmon Teriyaki

vegetable oil, plus more if needed

salmon

Combine ½ cup sake, ¼ cup mirin, and ¼ cup soy sauce in a small bowl; set teriyaki sauce aside.
→  Wait, what is mirin, anyways?

Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Season 4 salmon fillets lightly with salt.

Working in batches and adding more oil if needed, cook, skin side down, until skin is brown and crisp, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook until other side is just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Pour off fat in skillet. Bring teriyaki sauce to a boil in skillet over medium heat. Cook until reduced by two-thirds, about 4 minutes.
→  Homemade teriyaki sauce is a complete game-changer

Add salmon, skin side up, and cook, spooning sauce over, until sauce is syrupy and salmon is just cooked through, about 2 minutes.

Transfer to platter and serve with white rice, noodles, or a simple salad.

Chicken, seafood, glass noodles, and vegetables get briefly poached in dashi-based broth. Cutting the ingredients into uniform pieces ensures they cook in the same amount of time.

Anything Goes Donabe

bean thread noodles,

Dashi

soy sauce (usukuchi)

Napa cabbage,

littleneck clams

jumbo shrimp, preferably head-on

red snapper

skinless, boneless chicken thigh, cut into 1-inch pieces

firm tofu, sliced ½ inch thick

oyster mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces

carrot, peeled, halved crosswise, thinly sliced lengthwise

Place noodles in a large bowl and add cold water to cover; let soak 15 minutes. Drain.

Meanwhile, combine dashi, mirin, and soy sauce in a medium bowl.

Place thinly sliced scallions in a small bowl and add cold water to cover. Soak until they begin to curl, 8–10 minutes. Drain; squeeze to remove excess water.

Lay cabbage in a large donabe or Dutch oven. Arrange clams, shrimp, snapper, chicken, tofu, mushrooms, carrot, 2" scallion pieces, and noodles on top; add dashi mixture.

Cover donabe and heat over medium-high until liquid is just simmering. Uncover, reduce heat to low, and gently simmer until clams open and chicken and fish are cooked through, 5–8 minutes.

Christina Chaey’s mushroom dashi can go with whatever vegetables and proteins you have in the fridge. It’s her favorite cold-weather meal.

Fridge Clean-Out Nabe With Mushroom Dashi

shiitake mushrooms

kombu

dried udon or soba noodles

greens

scallion,

sesame oil and shichimi togarashi (for serving)

When associate editor Christina Chaey is short on time, she opts for a quick nabe, or hot pot, using her beloved Japanese donabe as a catchall for whatever vegetables she needs to use up. The ingredients listed in the recipe are merely suggestions; you could easily use kabocha squash or sliced sweet potatoes in place of the butternut, carrots in place of the turnips, or broccoli florets instead of (or in addition to) leafy greens. The vegan mushroom dashi is made by steeping meaty shiitakes and umami-rich kombu in water overnight (like cold-brew coffee) and useful to have around for making light soups on a whim.

Combine mushrooms, kombu, and 2½ cups cold water in a 1-qt. jar or small bowl. Cover and chill until dashi takes on a light golden hue, at least 8 hours or overnight.

Strain dashi into a clean jar or bowl. Squeeze mushrooms to release excess liquid into jar, then remove and discard the woody stems; thinly slice mushroom caps and reserve. Discard kombu.

Do Ahead: Dashi can be made 2 days ahead; cover and chill. Cover and chill rehydrated mushrooms separately.

Cook noodles in a medium saucepan of boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain in a colander, shaking off excess water, and set aside.

Pour dashi into a 1.5–2-qt. donabe or small saucepan and stir in mirin and soy sauce; season with salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add squash and turnips, cover, and cook until vegetables are almost completely tender, 5–7 minutes. Uncover; add greens, tofu, white and pale green parts of scallions, and reserved mushrooms. Cover and cook until greens are wilted, tofu is warmed through, and squash and turnips are tender, about 2 minutes.

Add reserved noodles to donabe and top with scallion greens. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with shichimi togarashi.

Onigiri, also known as omusube, are portable snacks, often sold in Japanese convenience stores, which are traditionally stuffed with salty, tangy fillings, then wrapped in seaweed. When grilled, glazed or cooked, they become yaki onigiri. In this version, adapted from “Vegan JapanEasy: Classic and Modern Vegan Japanese Recipes to Cook at Home” by Tim Anderson (Hardie Grant, 2020), a little bit of the pickled shiitake filling goes a long way. (The recipe makes extra, which you can keep refrigerated to add to stir-fries, ramen or even omelets.) You could also stuff these with finely chopped kimchi, Japanese pickles, sautéed greens or nothing at all. Available online or at most Japanese supermarkets, an onigiri mold makes for sleek shaping, but, with a little practice, you could also form the shape by hand, or simply roll the rice between your palms into balls. For hot yaki onigiri, brush them with the miso glaze, which will form a delightful crackly, caramelized crust when broiled.

Yaki Onigiri (Grilled Japanese Rice Balls) With Pickled Shiitakes

Japanese chile flakes,

tamari

rice vinegar

sushi rice (Japanese short-grain rice)

oil,

Sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)

nori,

red or white miso

rice vinegar, lime juice or other vinegar

Prepare the filling, if using: Add the shiitakes to a medium saucepan and top with cold water by a couple of inches. Stir to combine. Heat over medium-low just until bubbles start to break the surface. Cover and set aside to rehydrate for about 30 minutes. Once the mushrooms are tender, transfer them to a cutting board and thinly slice. (Save the mushroom stock for another use.) Toss sliced mushrooms with chile flakes, then transfer to a jar or lidded container. Top with soy sauce, mirin and rice vinegar. Cover and refrigerate. Let pickle at least 2 hours to develop flavor. They’re even better after a few days and will keep refrigerated for up to 6 months.

After the mushrooms have pickled (if using), prepare the rice: Add the rice to a medium saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Rinse the grains to remove any excess starch, and cover rice with cold water by 1 or 2 inches. Swish them around with outstretched fingers, then drain the rice, repeating the process three or four times until the water goes from milky to just slightly cloudy.

Pour 1 3/4 cups/420 milliliters water into the rinsed, drained rice, and give the rice a stir to distribute evenly. If time permits, let the rice soak for 15 to 30 minutes, which will help the grains cook even more evenly.

Heat the rice over high and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Once the mixture comes to a boil, cover it with the lid and reduce the heat to low or medium-low. You want a low heat that is still high enough to hear the rice bubbling. You should be able to see some steam escaping from the lid; turn the heat up slightly if necessary. Set a timer for 15 minutes and let it cook, undisturbed. (No peeking, or you’ll lose precious moisture!)

After 15 minutes, turn off the heat and gently fluff the rice using chopsticks or a fork. Put the lid back on and let sit for another 5 to 10 minutes to finish cooking in the residual heat. Tip the rice onto a baking sheet to cool slightly.

While the rice cooks, prepare the miso sauce, if making hot, glazed yaki onigiri: In a small bowl, whisk together the miso, sesame oil, mirin, sugar, sake and rice vinegar until smooth and sugar has dissolved.

Once the rice has cooled enough to be handled comfortably, brush a baking sheet lightly with neutral oil, so the onigiri don’t stick, and prepare a bowl of water for rinsing your hand to prevent the rice from sticking. Form your onigiri. If using Japanese onigiri mold, press about 1/3 cup cooked rice in the bottom, press an indentation in the center to stuff with about 2 teaspoons of finely chopped filling, then top with another 1/3 cup layer of rice, pressing down with the top piece of your rice mold. Transfer onigiri to the greased baking sheet.

If working by hand, you’ll want to grab a large handful of rice, compress the rice into a ball in the palm of your hand, then press the sides to form a triangular shape, flattening it into a triangular patty. (This shaping process requires some finesse, but you can also form rounded balls and simply compress them into pucks.) Transfer to the prepared baking sheet, rinsing your hands as needed.

If stuffing with mushrooms or other fillings, you’ll need only a few finely chopped tablespoons: 1 to 3 teaspoons per onigiri, depending on the size of your rice rolls. Compress the first handful of rice in your palm. Add the filling to the center and fold the rice up the sides. (You want to make sure the filling is just in the center portion. If the rice doesn’t create a seal, the onigiri will fall apart.) Top with another layer of rice and compress on all sides to form onigiri in the desired shape.

Garnish with sesame seeds and wrap with a small rectangle of nori, if using, and serve immediately. (Onigiri can be prepared 1 day in advance, wrapped in plastic and refrigerated, but should come to room temperature before being consumed.)

If making yaki onigiri, brush the top of the onigiri with miso sauce. Transfer to the oven and broil until the glaze forms a crust that is golden and lightly browned in spots, rotating if necessary, about 5 minutes. Carefully slip a flat spatula underneath to flip yaki onigiri; brush on the other side and broil until glazed on the second side, another 5 minutes. Garnish as you would onigiri.

The pressure cooker brings this deeply flavored ramen within reach on a busy weeknight. The trick is to infuse the broth with as much flavor as possible using two powerful ingredients: miso and dried shiitake mushrooms. Use the best chicken broth you can get your hands on. Unsalted homemade broth is ideal, but a good, low-sodium store-bought chicken broth or bouillon works very well too. (Standard store-bought broth will make the soup too salty.) Water can also be a good base, but if you use it, be sure to use bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs to give the soup some body. For a bonus boost of umami, drop a piece of dried kombu seaweed into the soup when you add the bok choy, and remove it before serving. 

Find the slow-cooker version of the recipe <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019694-slow-cooker-chicken-ramen-with-bok-choy-and-miso">here</a>.

Pressure Cooker Miso Chicken Ramen With Bok Choy

bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs or 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs

scallions, trimmed and halved,

shiitake mushrooms, halved (optional)

garlic cloves, smashed

chicken broth

baby bok choy,

tamari or soy sauce, plus more to taste

Soft-boiled eggs, sesame seeds

Put the chicken thighs in a 6- to 8-quart pressure cooker and crumble the miso on top. Add the scallions, mushrooms (if using), garlic and broth or water. Stir well to combine. Cook on high pressure for 25 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally for 15 minutes, then release the remaining pressure manually. Open the lid.

Remove the scallions with tongs or a slotted spoon. (If they are overcooked, discard them. If they are not, chop them and add them back to the soup.) Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the bone-in chicken to a bowl to cool. (If using boneless chicken thighs, you can shred them directly in the pot.)

Stir the bok choy, tamari and mirin into the pot. Using the sauté function, cook until the bok choy is wilted but still brightly colored, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the meat from the chicken bones, shred it and add it back to the pot.

Taste the soup and whisk in a few more spoonfuls of miso or tamari, if desired. If the soup tastes too salty, add some water and mirin.

Divide the noodles among four or five bowls and ladle the soup on top. Top each with sliced fresh scallions, a halved soft-boiled egg, sesame seeds and a piece of nori.

A hearty base of kale, quinoa and crisp tofu give this easy salad enough bite to serve as a meal. Curly kale provides heft and holds up nicely to the sweet, sour and spicy dressing. Use your hands to massage the vinaigrette into the kale, and let it marinate for at least 10 minutes to tenderize the sturdy greens. Finish the dish with a drizzle of sriracha and honey, but use a light touch: The point is to balance the heat and sweetness levels without overwhelming the delicate miso vinaigrette. If you like, double the dressing and refrigerate it for future use; it makes a fantastic dip for grilled chicken or pork, or a glaze to brush on salmon before broiling.

Kale and Quinoa Salad With Tofu and Miso

quinoa,

white miso

grapeseed oil

sriracha,

ginger,

tofu,

Honey syrup,

In a small saucepan, combine the quinoa with 3/4 cup water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover and cook over medium-low until the water is absorbed, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Fluff it with a fork.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, miso, mirin, sesame oil, 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil and 1/2 teaspoon sriracha. Stir in the ginger.

Add the kale, massage it with the dressing and set aside to marinate. Spoon the cooked quinoa onto the kale and toss to coat.

In a nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons grapeseed oil over medium. When the oil shimmers, cook the tofu, turning occasionally, until crisp on all sides, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to absorb any excess oil, then scatter it over the kale salad. Drizzle lightly with sriracha and honey and serve immediately.

Black cod with miso was not invented by Nobu Matsuhisa, the chef at Nobu in TriBeCa, but he certainly popularized it. His time-consuming recipe, which calls for soaking the fish in a sweet miso marinade for a couple of days, is a variation on a traditional Japanese process that uses sake lees, the sweet solids that remain after making sake, to marinate fish. If you broil black cod with nothing but salt, you already have a winning dish. If you broil it with miso – the intensely salty paste made from fermented soybeans – along with some mirin and quite a bit of sugar, you create something stunningly delicious. And no long marination is necessary.

Black Cod Broiled With Miso

miso, preferably dark

mirin, sake

black cod

Heat broiler; set rack 3 to 4 inches from heat source. Combine first three ingredients in a small saucepan and, over low heat, bring almost to a boil, stirring occasionally just until blended; mixture will be fairly thin. Turn off heat.

Put fillets in an ovenproof baking dish or skillet, preferably nonstick, and spoon half the sauce on top. Broil until sauce bubbles and begins to brown, then spoon remaining amount over fish. Continue to broil, adjusting heat or rack position if sauce or fish is browning too quickly, until fish is just cooked through. Serve immediately.

Spam, the love-it-or-hate-it canned ham, was introduced in 1937 and gained popularity during World War II, when more than 150 million pounds were shipped to American troops overseas. Soldiers introduced it to locals, who used the product to create spin-offs of regional dishes like Japanese onigiri and Korean budae jjigae. According to Hormel Foods Corporation, residents of Hawaii eat more Spam than those of any other state. A popular way to eat it there is in the tradition of Japanese omusubi: Stack a pan-fried slice of Spam and a rice patty and wrap a piece of roasted nori around it. This version of the dish is adapted from “Aloha Kitchen: Recipes From Hawai‘i,” a cookbook of classic Hawaiian dishes by Alana Kysar.

Spam Musubi

brown sugar

mirin (optional)

neutral oil, like canola or vegetable

Spam,

roasted sushi nori,

furikake

white rice

In a small bowl, whisk the soy sauce, sugar and mirin (if using). Set aside.

Lightly coat the bottom of a large skillet with oil and heat over medium. Fry the Spam slices until evenly browned and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Turn off the heat. Working quickly to avoid burning, add the soy mixture and turn the Spam slices until evenly coated in glaze. Immediately transfer the Spam slices and glaze to a plate.

To mold the musubi, start by placing a strip of nori, rough side up, on a cutting board or clean work surface. Place a Spam musubi maker mold over it, in the middle, then place a slice of Spam into the mold. (If you don’t have a mold, you can line a clean Spam can with plastic wrap instead, and place a slice of Spam at the bottom.) Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon furikake over the Spam, then fill the mold or can with a generous mound of rice. Press the rice firmly with the musubi maker press or with your hands until it is 3/4- to 1-inch thick, adding more rice as needed.

Use the press to hold the rice down with one hand and pull the mold upward to unmold the musubi with your other hand. (If you’re using the Spam can, gently lift the Spam and rice out of the can by gently pulling on both sides of the plastic wrap.) Wrap the nori around the Spam-rice stack, bringing both ends of the strip to the middle, folding one over the other, and flipping it over so the seam is down and the Spam is facing up. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Serve immediately or wrap with plastic wrap to take with you on the go.

Miso Itame is a classic Japanese stirfry dish that people enjoy during hot summer days; every household has its version but usually has eggplants and pork. The dish is nutty, sweet, salty, and has just enough oil to enhances the richness of the flavor.

Miso Itame, A Stir Fry with Miso, Eggplant and Pork

Japanese/Chinese eggplant (1 medium eggplant)

pork belly

green pepper

onion

miso (white, yellow or red)

Gather ingredients.

Prep the ingredients: In a medium bowl, combine miso, sake, mirin, sugar and soy sauce. Note: If using a lean piece of pork such as loin, sprinkle the meat with one tablespoon of sake and set it aside for 5 minutes.  

Heat a large frying pan (or stirfry pan) on medium heat. Add about ¼ cup of vegetable oil and cook eggplants. When the eggplant is soft, take it out on a paper towel. Set it aside.  

Using the same frying pan, stirfry pork until it is almost cooked through, take it out on a dish, and set it aside.  

Heat the frying pan again, add a teaspoon of oil and stirfry onion and pepper. When onion and peppers are soft, return the eggplant and pork to the pan. Add miso mixture, continue cooking on medium heat until sauce thickens.  

Sprinkle sesame seeds and garnish with chopped chives (optional). Serve hot or room temperature with steamed white rice.   

You can make this spicy pork in a 6- to 8-quart electric pressure cooker if you’re in a hurry, or in a slow cooker if you're not. In either case, you’ll get tender bits of meat covered in a chile-flavored barbecue sauce that’s just slightly sweet. (You can also make it in a stovetop pressure cooker, by trimming a few minutes off the cooking time. Stovetop pressure cookers tend to cook at a slightly higher pressure, so food cooks more quickly.) Gochujang, a pungent Korean chile paste, and gochugaru, Korean chile flakes, is available at Asian markets and specialty shops, or see the ingredient list for substitutions.
Serve the pork over rice or in slider rolls, topped with crunchy pickled sesame cucumbers and a little kimchi, if you want to spice things up. And, while you can make this from start to finish in an afternoon, you can also make this in stages a few days ahead, if that’s easier.

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