Step 1

Spread 1 pound dried pinto beans on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Pick through the beans, removing any shriveled beans or other debris.

Step 2

Transfer the beans to a colander or fine-mesh strainer and rinse until the water runs clear. Place the beans in a large pot or Dutch oven.

Step 3

Add 8 cups water, 1/2 medium yellow onion, 3 garlic cloves, 2 bay leaves, 2 tablespoons kosher salt, and 1/8 teaspoon baking soda.

Step 4

Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

Step 5

Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the beans are tender and creamy, 1 hour 15 minutes to 3 1/2 hours, depending on the age of the beans. Add more water if needed to keep the beans submerged by at least 1/2-inch.

Step 6

Remove the onion, bay leaves, and garlic before serving.