Step 1

Fill a large pot with 4 quarts water and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, mince or push 4 large garlic cloves through a garlic press (about 1 tablespoon). Place in a small bowl and add about 1 tablespoon water to just barely cover (the garlic will eventually absorb most of the water). Slice 8 large shiitake or cremini mushrooms, including the stems, 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick. Halve 1 bunch Broccolini lengthwise if thick; cut the broccolini crosswise into 2-inch pieces. Mince 1/2 small shallot (about 1 tablespoon) and add to the bowl of garlic.

Step 2

Add 10 ounces dried wheat noodles or ramen and 1 tablespoon kosher salt to the boiling water. Boil the noodles until just chewy-firm; they’ll soften more later. Ladle out 3/4 cup of the cooking liquid into a small bowl or liquid measuring cup. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse with cool water.

Step 3

Add 1 tablespoon oyster sauce, 2 teaspoons fish sauce, 1 teaspoon cornstarch, 1/2 teaspoon MSG (or see above substitutes), and 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar to the reserved cooking liquid and stir to combine.

Step 4

If the pot that you cooked the noodles in is wide enough to comfortably sauté the mushrooms and broccolini, melt 2 tablespoons of the salted butter in it over medium-high heat; if not, use a large skillet. Add the mushrooms and Broccolini, season with 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt and a few grinds of pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms start to brown and the Broccolini brightens in color and is just tender, about 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and transfer the vegetables to a plate or bowl.

Step 5

Return the pot to the hot, turned-off burner. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons salted butter, shallot, and garlic (no need to drain first). Turn the heat on to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is fragrant and some pieces are golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cooking water mixture (stir first if the cornstarch has settled) and vegetables, stir, and increase the heat slightly.

Step 6

When the sauce starts bubbling, add the noodles. Using tongs and a spoon, combine and coat the noodles in sauce. If the dish looks too thick or tastes too salty, add a tiny splash of water. Turn off the heat and let rest for a minute. Serve the noodles in individual pasta bowls.