kombu

The goal here was to achieve a tonkotsu-like broth without using any meat. Tomato paste, dried shiitake mushrooms, kombu, and a little bit of butter help to get you that rich umami-like effect.

Vegetarian Ramen

garlic cloves, thinly sliced

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

Tbsp. black or white sesame seeds

Tbsp. gochugaru (coarse Korean red pepper powder)

Kosher salt

scallions

2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced

tomato paste

shiitake mushrooms

Tbsp. unsalted butter,

Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce

baby bok choy (about 12 oz. total), quartered lengthwise

5-oz. packages fresh ramen noodles

noodles

Bon Appétit

Cook garlic and ¼ cup oil in a medium pot over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic is beginning to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in sesame seeds and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a small bowl and stir in gochugaru; season with salt. Set garlic oil aside. Wipe out pot and set aside.

Trim dark green parts from scallions and thinly slice; set aside for serving. Coarsely chop white and pale green parts. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp oil in reserved pot over medium-high. Cook chopped scallions and ginger, stirring often, until scallions are charred in spots, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to stick to the bottom of pot and darkens slightly, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and kombu, then stir in 5 cups cold water. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat and let sit until mushrooms soften, about 10 minutes. Remove and discard kombu.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer solids to a blender. Add a ladleful or 2 of broth to blender and purée until smooth. Stir purée back into broth in pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add butter a piece at a time, whisking to combine after each addition before adding more. Stir in soy sauce; season with salt. Reduce heat to low and keep warm until ready to serve.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add bok choy and cook until bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bok choy to a plate. Return water to a boil and cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and divide among bowls.

To serve, ladle broth over noodles, then top with bok choy and reserved garlic oil. Top with eggs, nori, and cilantro if desired.

Be careful not to let this soup boil when reheating—you want to retain the delicate properties of the miso, which can be destroyed by high heat.

Sweet Potato–Turmeric Miso Soup

sweet potato

bonito flakes (about 1½ packed cups)

coconut milk

white miso

turmeric turmeric

lime juice

coconut

Preheat oven to 450°. Pierce potato several times with a fork or sharp knife. Roast potato on a rimmed baking sheet until tender, 35–45 minutes. Let cool, then scoop out flesh; discard skin.

Meanwhile, combine kombu and 4 cups water in a large pot. Let sit until kombu softens, 25–30 minutes. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Immediately remove from heat once water starts simmering; fish out kombu and discard. Add bonito flakes and stir once to submerge them. Return to a gentle boil, reduce heat, and simmer about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let steep 15 minutes (this ensures you get the most flavorful broth, or dashi, possible). Strain dashi through a fine-mesh strainer into a medium bowl. Discard solids; wipe out pot.

Transfer dashi to a blender. Add sweet potato, coconut milk, miso, and turmeric. Blend until smooth. Return to pot and bring to a very gentle simmer. Remove from heat and stir in lime juice.

Divide soup among bowls. Top with coconut flakes and peanuts, then drizzle with chili oil.

Roasting the vegetables along with a trio of umami-rich ingredients (miso, mushrooms, and kombu) give this meat-free broth a deep, satisfying flavor that can be used in a variety of soups or braises. You can even sip it on its own or top it with scallions and fresh chiles.

Vegan Umami Broth

vegetable oil

onions, unpeeled, halved through root, very thinly sliced

medium carrot, unpeeled, very thinly sliced

celery stalk, thinly sliced

garlic,

parsley

black peppercorns

Preheat oven to 300º. Whisk miso, oil, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Crush mushrooms and kombu with your hands over a rimmed baking sheet. Add onions, carrot, celery, garlic, and parsley and toss to combine. Drizzle miso mixture over vegetable mixture and toss to coat. Bake, tossing halfway through, until vegetables are slightly shriveled and mixture is fragrant, 60–75 minutes.

Transfer vegetable mixture to a large pot. Add peppercorns and 4 quarts cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until broth is reduced by half, 60–75.

Let broth cool, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids.

Do Ahead: Broth can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill, or freeze up to 3 months.

Learn how to make Kombu Dashi, vegan-friendly Japanese soup stock, at home and create the umami flavor for your Japanese dishes!&nbsp;

Kombu Dashi (Vegetarian/Vegan Dashi)

water ((roughly 1000 ml))

Gather all the ingredients. Most Japanese recipes would say to gently clean the kombu with a damp cloth. However, these days, kombu is pretty clean so just make sure it doesn't musty. DO NOT wash or wipe off the white powdery substance (Mannitol), which contributes to the umami flavor in dashi.&nbsp;

Make a couple of slits on the kombu, which will help release more flavor.

Put water and kombu in a large bottle.

Put the cap on and let it steep on the counter for 2-3 hours in the summertime and 4-5 hours in the winter time.&nbsp;You can also cold brew kombu dashi overnight in the refrigerator.

Remove the kombu from the bottle and reserve the used kombu (see below). Kombu dashi is now ready to use. If you are not using the dashi right away, save it in a bottle and keep in the refrigerator for 4-5 days or in the freezer for 2 weeks. I recommend using it sooner for the best flavor.

Method 1: Cold Brew Kombu Dashi (Mizudashi)

In a medium pot, put the kombu and water. [optional] If you have time, soak for 3 hours or up to a half day ahead of time. Kombu’s flavor comes out naturally from soaking in water.

Turn on the heat to medium-low heat and slowly bring to almost boil, about 10 minutes.&nbsp;

Meanwhile, clean the dashi by skimming the surface.

Just before the dashi starts boiling, remove kombu from the pot (see below for what to do with it). If you leave the kombu inside, the dashi will become slimy and bitter.&nbsp;

Now kombu dashi is ready to use. If you are not using the dashi right away, save it in a bottle and keep in the refrigerator for 4-5 days or in the freezer for 2 weeks. I recommend using it sooner for the best flavor.

Method 2: Kombu Dashi with Boiling Water (Nidashi)

Save the used kombu in the airtight container for a few days in the refrigerator or for up to a month in the freezer. With the leftover kombu, you can make Kombu Tsukudani (simmered kombu) or Homemade Furikake (rice seasoning). I usually save the leftover kombu enough to make tsukudani.

What to Do with Used Kombu

Dashi is the basic Japanese soup stock used in many Japanese dishes. Learn how to make Awase Dashi at home with umami-packed ingredients like kombu (kelp) and katsuobushi (bonito flakes).

Awase Dashi (Japanese Soup Stock)

⅓ oz katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) ((10 g, 1 cup))

Gather all the ingredients. Most Japanese recipes would say to gently clean the kombu with a damp cloth. However, these days, kombu is pretty clean so just make sure it doesn't look musty. DO NOT wash or wipe off the white powdery substance (Mannitol), which contributes to the umami flavor in dashi.

Put water and kombu in a large bottle and let it steep on the counter for 2-3 hours in the summertime and 4-5 hours in the winter time. You can also cold brew kombu dashi overnight in the refrigerator.

Optional Step: Make Cold Brew Kombu Dashi Ahead of Time

In a medium pot, put the kombu and water. If you have cold brew Kombu Dashi (previous step), add Kombu Dashi and hydrated kombu in the pot.

Turn on the heat to medium-low heat and slowly bring to almost boil, about 10 minutes.

Just before the dashi starts boiling gently, remove kombu from the pot (Discard or use for other recipes - continue reading). If you leave the kombu in the pot, the dashi will become slimy and bitter. 

Add the katsuobushi and bring it back to a boil again.

Once the dashi is boiling, reduce the heat, simmer for just 30 seconds, and turn off the heat.

Let the katsuobushi sink to the bottom, about 10 minutes.

Strain the dashi through a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl or measuring cup (Reserve the katsuobushi and see below for what to do with it). Awase Dashi is ready to use.

To Make Awase Dashi

If you are not using the dashi right away, store the dashi in a bottle or mason jar and keep in the refrigerator for 3-5 days or in the freezer for 2 weeks.

To Store

Save the hydrated kombu and drained katsuobushi to make&nbsp;Homemade Furikake (rice seasoning) or Kombu Tsukudani (simmered kombu). If you don't make them right away, you can freeze them for 2-3 weeks. You can also make Niban Dashi (see below).

What to Do with Used Kombu and Katsuobushi

In the medium pot, put 2-4 cups* of water and previously used kombu and katsuobushi from making the (first) dashi. Bring it to a boil over medium-low heat. *2 cups would make stronger dashi.

Remove the kombu just before the liquid comes to a boil, then lower the heat, and cook for 10 minutes, skimming occasionally.

Add an additional fresh ½ cup (5 grams) katsuobushi and turn off the heat.

Let the katsuobushi sink to the bottom and strain the dashi through the fine-mesh sieve.

Optional: Niban Dashi (Second Dashi)

You can use this foolproof steaming method to cook any sturdy fish—salmon, snapper, black cod, or arctic char would all be great in place of the black bass. The kombu, though optional, adds a subtle layer of umami flavor to the delicate broth.

Soy And Ginger Steamed Fish

6–8-oz. skinless black bass fillets

kombu (optional)

Tbsp. sake

soy sauce

mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)

mushrooms

2" piece ginger, peeled,

Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

scallions, thinly sliced

rice (for serving)

Soy and Ginger Steamed Fish

Slice fish into six pieces; season all over with salt.

Combine kombu (if using), sake, soy sauce, mirin, and ¾ cup water in a medium donabe or Dutch oven with lid. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Layer cabbage stems, then leaves in pot. Scatter mushrooms and ginger over, then place fish over mushrooms. Cover pot and steam until fish is opaque and just cooked through, 8–10 minutes.

Drizzle with sesame oil and top with scallions. Serve in shallow bowls with broth spooned over and rice alongside.

If you like your soup extra spicy, add a bit more gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste) or even a bit of the kimchi juice for an additional kick.

Spicy Kimchi Miso Soup

eggs, room temperature

kimchi

tofu,

¼ cup miso

gochujang

Sesame seeds and toasted sesame oil (for serving)

Combine kombu and 4 cups water in a large pot. Let sit until kombu softens, 25–30 minutes. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Immediately remove from heat once water starts simmering; fish out kombu and discard. Add bonito flakes and stir once to submerge them. Return to a gentle boil, reduce heat, and simmer about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let steep 15 minutes (this ensures you get the most flavorful broth, or dashi, possible).

Meanwhile, cook eggs in a medium pot of boiling water 6 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water (ice bath) and let sit until cold, about 2 minutes. Peel eggs; set aside.

Strain dashi through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Discard solids, wipe out pot, and return dashi to pot. Add kimchi and tofu and bring to a very gentle simmer. Remove from heat. Submerge sieve in liquid, add miso and gochujang to sieve, and stir to liquefy both, then press through strainer until pastes are dissolved.

Divide soup among bowls. Top with sesame seeds and drizzle with sesame oil. Cut eggs in half and add to bowls.

This soothing broth comes together quickly with the help of umami-rich kombu. But the secret weapon is the grated ginger stirred in at the end. The raw ginger keeps the broth fresh and bright. Kombu is rich in valuable minerals and vitamins, so don’t waste it; once the broth is made, chop the kombu and add it back to the pot. The nice chewy texture and mushroomy flavor play well with the daikon and tofu.

Vegetable Shabu Shabu In Kombu-Ginger Broth

canola oil

onion

kombu (dried kelp)

peeled, grated ginger

daikon,

white button mushrooms, halved (about 2 cups)

baby bok choy,

white vinegar

ginger

garlic

Kosher salt,

Lime wedges,

Vegetable Shabu Shabu in Kombu-Ginger Broth

Make the shabu shabu: Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, scallions and garlic, and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add kombu and 6 cups of water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer gently over low heat for 20 minutes. Transfer kombu to a cutting board and chop into 2-inch pieces; add back to broth. Stir in ginger and season with salt.

Bring broth to a gentle simmer. Add daikon and mushrooms, and simmer for 2 minutes. Add bok choy and tofu, and stir, cooking until vegetables are tender, about 3 minutes longer. Divide the vegetables among 4 serving bowls, and add as much broth as desired.

Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce. In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients.

To serve, divide dipping sauce into individual bowls. Dip the cooked vegetables in the sauce, and sip on the broth as soup.

Cooked in a sweet and savory sauce, Kombu Tsukudani (Simmered Kombu) is a delicious way to use up the leftover kombu. It makes a great side dish to accompany your ordinary steamed rice!

Kombu Tsukudani (Simmered Kombu)

sesame seeds

water

Tbsp sake

mirin

tsp rice vinegar

tsp sugar ((add more if you prefer the sweet taste))

½ tsp katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)

red chili pepper

Gather all the ingredients.

Cut the kombu into thin strips.

Remove the seeds from the dried red chili pepper and cut the pepper into thin rounds.

Transfer the kombu into a medium saucepan. Add water, mirin, and sake.

Add rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and katsuobushi.

Add the red chili pepper and bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat.

Once boiling, reduce heat to low and simmer until the liquid is almost evaporated, about 20-25 minutes. If kombu is still not tender, add water and continue to cook.

Sprinkle sesame seeds and ready to serve.

Keep the Tsukudani in the refrigerate and consume within 2 weeks.

Christina Chaey’s mushroom dashi can go with whatever vegetables and proteins you have in the fridge. It’s her favorite cold-weather meal.

Fridge Clean-Out Nabe With Mushroom Dashi

dried udon or soba noodles

greens

scallion,

sesame oil and shichimi togarashi (for serving)

When associate editor Christina Chaey is short on time, she opts for a quick nabe, or hot pot, using her beloved Japanese donabe as a catchall for whatever vegetables she needs to use up. The ingredients listed in the recipe are merely suggestions; you could easily use kabocha squash or sliced sweet potatoes in place of the butternut, carrots in place of the turnips, or broccoli florets instead of (or in addition to) leafy greens. The vegan mushroom dashi is made by steeping meaty shiitakes and umami-rich kombu in water overnight (like cold-brew coffee) and useful to have around for making light soups on a whim.

Combine mushrooms, kombu, and 2½ cups cold water in a 1-qt. jar or small bowl. Cover and chill until dashi takes on a light golden hue, at least 8 hours or overnight.

Strain dashi into a clean jar or bowl. Squeeze mushrooms to release excess liquid into jar, then remove and discard the woody stems; thinly slice mushroom caps and reserve. Discard kombu.

Do Ahead: Dashi can be made 2 days ahead; cover and chill. Cover and chill rehydrated mushrooms separately.

Cook noodles in a medium saucepan of boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain in a colander, shaking off excess water, and set aside.

Pour dashi into a 1.5–2-qt. donabe or small saucepan and stir in mirin and soy sauce; season with salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add squash and turnips, cover, and cook until vegetables are almost completely tender, 5–7 minutes. Uncover; add greens, tofu, white and pale green parts of scallions, and reserved mushrooms. Cover and cook until greens are wilted, tofu is warmed through, and squash and turnips are tender, about 2 minutes.

Add reserved noodles to donabe and top with scallion greens. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with shichimi togarashi.

How to make dashi, a fundamental Japanese soup stock.

Basic Japanese Dashi Recipe

(2L) water

(30 grams) dried kombu (see note)

(30 grams) packed dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi, see note)

Combine water and kombu in a medium saucepan. Bring to a bare simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and add bonito flakes. Let stand for 5 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer and discard kombu and bonito, or reserve to make a second, weaker batch of dashi. Dashi can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

To serve this dish as a main course for eight, double the recipe over two pots and throw some warm baguettes on the table.

Stout-Steamed Shellfish with Charred Onions

grapeseed or vegetable oil

onion,

unsalted butter

thyme

bay leaf

stout

clams mussels debearded

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

To serve this dish from Canadian restaurant Wolf in the Fog as a main course for eight, double the recipe over two pots and throw some warm baguettes on the table.

Heat oil in a large wide pot over high. Cook onion, stirring occasionally, until edges are blackened, 6–8 minutes. Let pot cool slightly, then add butter, garlic, arranging cut side down, and thyme and cook over low heat until garlic is golden and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add kombu, bay leaf, and stout and increase heat to medium-high. Add shellfish; cover pot. Cook, shaking pot often and transferring shellfish to a large bowl as they open, until all the shellfish are open, 5–8 minutes. Discard any that don’t open. Season cooking broth with salt and pepper. Divide shellfish among bowls; ladle broth over.

Cooking sushi rice in a bath of kombu, fresh corn, and savory soy sauce is a recipe for summer success. 

Summer Corn Rice

sushi rice

corn

soy sauce;

1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt

Unsalted butter and toasted sesame oil (for serving; optional)

This easy, delicately flavored Japanese-style dish is the perfect way to showcase fresh sweet corn when it is in season. Short-grain sushi rice gets cooked with corn (including its cob!) in water that's been infused with kombu and soy sauce, creating a sweet and savory springboard for all sorts of summer meals. There are so many simple ways to enjoy it: alongside a fresh salad, miso soup, or grilled meat; mixed with a dab of butter and topped with shredded shiso leaves; sautéed with butter and more soy sauce as a quick fried rice; shaped into onigiri (rice balls) with flaked cooked salmon tucked into its center. This recipe is easily halved, and you can also make it in a rice cooker.—Hana Asbrink

Soak the rice. Place 2 cups sushi rice in a medium bowl and pour in water to cover. Rinse rice, swishing around with your hand. Drain and repeat two to three times until water is mostly clear (it doesn’t have to be crystal clear, just not cloudy). Cover with fresh cold water and let sit 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the corn. Shuck 1 ear of corn, then place horizontally on a cutting board. Cut off kernels with a chef’s knife, rotating cob as you finish each side. Stand cob upright and using the back of the knife, scrape cob to release corn juices and starch (a.k.a. the milk) from cob onto kernels. If cob is too long to fit in your pot, cut in half.

Drain rice. Combine rice and 2¼ cups water in a small Dutch oven or large saucepan. Stir in 1 Tbsp. soy sauce and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, then place corn, corn milk, cob, and one 5x3" piece dried kombu on top of rice. Press to submerge in water. Cover pot with a tight-fitting lid and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, 6–8 minutes (listen for it). Reduce heat to low and continue cooking (still covered) 15 minutes more. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, 10 minutes.

Remove lid and pull out cob and kombu; discard. Fluff with a rice paddle or wide wooden spoon, mixing corn and rice together. (If you happen to get a light golden crust on the bottom of your rice—enjoy it!) Serve warm, topped with a small pat of unsalted butter and drizzled with toasted sesame oil and more soy sauce if desired.

By using a rich, mushroom-based broth, we simplified Atoboy chef Junghyun Park’s approach to creating huge flavor for steamed and poached fish.

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