Step 1

Preheat the oven to 425ºF. In a small skillet, toast the cumin and coriander seeds until they smell fragrant and have turned a shade darker in color. Transfer to a spice grinder or crush with a mortar and pestle. Transfer 1.5 teaspoons of the mixture to a small bowl. This is for the schug. Transfer the remaining spice mix (you should have a heaping tablespoon) to another small bowl and stir together with the smoked paprika and cayenne—this is for the cauliflower.

Step 2

Rub a small amount of olive (or neutral) oil over a rimmed sheet pan. Transfer the cauliflower, onions, and smoked paprika spice mix to the sheet pan. Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil and a teaspoon of salt. Toss to coat, spread in an even layer, transfer pan to the oven, and roast for about 30 minutes, tossing once after about 20 minutes.

Step 3

Put the chilies and garlic in a food processor and pulse a few times until they are fairly fine. Add the cilantro, parsley, lemon zest, reserved toasted spiced, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and a few twists of black pepper. Pulse until all is finely chopped into a rough purée. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil. Stop the processor before the sauce is completely blended and smooth—you want some texture. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning with another 1/2 teaspoon salt (I always do), and pepper and lemon to taste.

Step 4

Stir together the yogurt, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Taste. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Step 5

smear the yogurt sauce over a large platter. Top with the roasted cauliflower. Drizzle some of the shkug over top. Serve immediately, passing more schug on the side.