Step 1

Peel rutabaga and cut it into roughly ½-inch-by-1-inch batons. (No need to be too precise. The measurement is just a guide.)

Step 2

In a large frying pan, heat a little olive oil (enough to coat) over medium heat. Add rutabaga, season with smoked salt or sea salt, and add 2-3 tablespoons of water. Let rutabaga simmer until water is all gone, then continue to cook over medium-high heat, stirring regularly to avoid sticking, until rutabaga is golden brown and crisp-edged, but soft in the middle, about 15 minutes. Reduce heat to low and keep pan on heat.

Step 3

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook spaghetti according to package instructions. Crack eggs into a bowl, add a good grinding (about 1 teaspoon) of black pepper and Parmesan, and mix well.

Step 4

Once pasta is perfectly al dente, use tongs to lift it out of the water and straight into the frying pan with the rutabaga, along with a little of the cooking water (scant ½ cup). This will cool the pan a little, stop the eggs scrambling when they are added and help the sauce emulsify.

Step 5

Toss pasta and rutabaga together, and once pan has cooled enough that you don’t hear any sizzling, add egg mixture. Toss again until all pasta is coated in sauce. If you need to, add a little more cooking water until you have a thick, silky, creamy sauce that sticks to the pasta. Serve immediately, with more Parmesan, black pepper and a sprinkling of lemon zest.