Step 1

Prepare the noodles: Toast the penne in a dry, shallow pan, without oil, over medium heat. (Be careful not to overcrowd the pan, or the noodles won’t toast evenly; separate into batches if necessary.) Using a spatula or tongs, move the penne back and forth so they toast on all sides, until they are just a shade shy of golden, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep stirring as the noodles continue to darken. Set aside.

Step 2

Make the peanut purée: In a blender, purée the peanuts and 1 1/2 cups water, starting on low speed and increasing the speed as needed. Add another 1 cup water and blend until creamy. Set aside.

Step 3

Prepare the soup: Heat the oil in a 6-quart (or larger), heavy-bottomed pot over medium. Add the carrots, celery, onion, green bell pepper and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, 5 to 10 minutes.

Step 4

Add the water or stock, peanut purée, garlic, serrano chile, both types of bouillon cubes, salt, cumin, dried quilquiña, locoto powder (if using) and nutritional yeast, plus half the parsley and half the cilantro. Stir until well mixed.

Step 5

Bring to a low boil while stirring constantly, so the peanut purée doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Continue to cook at a low boil, stirring frequently, for 7 minutes. (Keep an eye on the pot, as the soup can boil over quickly.) Add the potato and the toasted pasta then reduce the heat and let simmer until the potato is cooked through and the pasta is just tender, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring in the peas and the remaining parsley and cilantro halfway through. (The soup should have some body, but should not be as thick as a chowder. If necessary, add a little more water or vegetable stock to thin it to the desired consistency.) Discard the bay leaf.

Step 6

Serve the soup in bowls and top with the matchstick potatoes, if using, and parsley to taste, for a touch of brightness and color.