Step 1

Trim the pig’s liver of all tubes – there are lots of tubes to be avoided but unlike calf’s liver the skin is very thin and impossible to remove. Cut liver into small dice – you should have about 550gm liver.

Step 2

Combine liver, pork, back fat, onion, garlic, peppercorns, herbes de Provence, quarter-epices and rinds in a large bowl, add wine and pastis, mix well, cover and refrigerate overnight. Meanwhile, blanch the swiss chard for 5 minutes or until tender but not too soft. Drain and refresh under cold running water until very cold. Drain and squeeze the leaves dry with a clean tea towel. Chop coarsely and chill well (at least 1 hour).

Step 3

Mince the meat mixture through the medium plate of a mincer directly into a large mixing bowl, working quickly so meat remains chilled, then quickly add the chard, salt and ice water.

Step 4

Beat in a stand mixer or using your hand to emulsify. The mixture should feel sticky between the fingers and appear sweaty. Divide into 16 even pieces (about 110gm each) and, with slightly wet hands, shape them into triangles about 2.5cm thick, placing them on a tray in the refrigerator as you go to keep chilled.

Step 5

Drain the caul fat and rinse well under cold running water. Gently squeeze small mounds fairly dry. Use a water spray to moisten the work surface, then spread out the caul. Wrap each gayette in caul, avoiding double thicknesses except at the joins; it’s important the caul melts as much as possible.

Step 6

Preheat the oven to 180C and heat a barbecue flat plate to medium-high (or heat a flat grill pan over medium-high heat). Add oil or fat and heat until hot but not smoking, add the gayettes in batches and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on both sides (10 minutes).

Step 7

Place the gayettes in the oven until just cooked through (10 minutes; pierce one with a small knife while holding a spoon against it to collect the juices, which should run clear). Remove from the oven and serve with gratin of kipfler potatoes and a mesclun salad.